Torque tube queston?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Texarkana Ar
Torque tube queston?
Just pulled the drivetrain out of my 99c5 and I noticed before there seemed to be alot of slack when shifting through gears, thought maybe it had something to do with the throw out bearing. But when I pulled the torque tube from the engine side I noticed there is alot of slack in the shaft. I can wiggle the shaft up and down and back and forth really easy. So I was wondering if there is bushings I can replace or do I need to replace the whole torque tube?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Just pulled the drivetrain out of my 99c5 and I noticed before there seemed to be alot of slack when shifting through gears, thought maybe it had something to do with the throw out bearing. But when I pulled the torque tube from the engine side I noticed there is alot of slack in the shaft. I can wiggle the shaft up and down and back and forth really easy. So I was wondering if there is bushings I can replace or do I need to replace the whole torque tube?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
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From: Bangkok, Thailand
The driveshaft spins inside bearings that are inside the torque tube. So, yes if the bearings are worn out it could cause what you're describing.
The early driveshafts/TT combo is 55mm and the later ones (2001-2004 I think - all Z06's got them too) were 63 mm. The larger shaft would allow for more load bearing by the bearings which would help longevity. They also have 12mm bolts vs. the early versions having 10mm bolts
While you're in there, consider replacing the rubber couplers at the front and back either with new ones (the good German ones) or the aftermarket polyurethane ones.
Hope that helps.
The early driveshafts/TT combo is 55mm and the later ones (2001-2004 I think - all Z06's got them too) were 63 mm. The larger shaft would allow for more load bearing by the bearings which would help longevity. They also have 12mm bolts vs. the early versions having 10mm bolts
While you're in there, consider replacing the rubber couplers at the front and back either with new ones (the good German ones) or the aftermarket polyurethane ones.
Hope that helps.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
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From: South Western Ontario
The input shaft has 2 bearings - the pilot bearing and a roller bearing in the front of the torque tube. When you pull it out of the pilot bearing it now has a roller bearing and a rubber coupler holding it so no big surprise it can be moved around.
You need to pull out the shaft and take a look at the front bearing. It should fit in the housing snugly. I believe there is an o-ring it rides on inside the housing that holds it but just can't recall for sure. If the bearing is worn out that it may have more play or may have even spun in the torque tube and ruined the area it rides on. If the couplings are worn then they wouldn't provide resistance to the input shaft moving around.
At any rate, the heavier shaft is the middle part and there are no bearings on it. It's a larger diameter mostly so that it doesn't act like a skipping rope at higher rpm's.
Peter
You need to pull out the shaft and take a look at the front bearing. It should fit in the housing snugly. I believe there is an o-ring it rides on inside the housing that holds it but just can't recall for sure. If the bearing is worn out that it may have more play or may have even spun in the torque tube and ruined the area it rides on. If the couplings are worn then they wouldn't provide resistance to the input shaft moving around.
At any rate, the heavier shaft is the middle part and there are no bearings on it. It's a larger diameter mostly so that it doesn't act like a skipping rope at higher rpm's.
Peter
