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2002 Brake Bleed procedure

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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Default 2002 Brake Bleed procedure

Took off front calipers for some painting,
Can I just bleed the front brakes or do I need to bleed entire system?
I did a search and found no threads on this.
Any help is appreciated, Thank you
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Sure you can bleed just the fronts!
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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I would take the dot 3 fluid out and put some dot 4 in while you have your car up in the air and bleed out your whole system. I don't know if you ever changed your fluid or not but if you never did, it's past due The dot 4 has a higher boiling point so you won't get brake fade as easy.

Also take your clutch fluid out and put some dot 4 in too and use the ranger method and keep flushing the old out with new. This will keep your clutch healthy too and hopefully keep your clutch pedal from ever sticking to the floor.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Thank for the help, also its been a while since I did a brake job, Remember when you take the bolts out of caliper that you need to replace the little brass washers. If not you will have a leak....I know this now
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 02koolC5
Thank for the help, also its been a while since I did a brake job, Remember when you take the bolts out of caliper that you need to replace the little brass washers. If not you will have a leak....I know this now
If I was you I would go ahead and bleed the entire system if you havent done it recently as its not that much harder to do the rears as long as you have a helper. Also when I painted and bled the brakes on my dads 00 I reused the washers without any trouble, of course being that it only has 10,000 miles on it now may have something to do with it too.

Oh and make sure if you bleed just the fronts you do the right then the left.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Oh and make sure if you bleed just the fronts you do the right then the left.
Why is that?
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Gadget01
Why is that?
An old machanic's philosophy.....bleed first the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and the last wheel bleed should be the left front.

Last edited by runner140*; Aug 10, 2011 at 07:32 AM. Reason: add
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by runner140*
An old machanic's philosophy.....bleed first the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and the last wheel bleed should be the left front.
Yeah... I thought so too. For some reason on 01+ C5's the service manual states that the proper bleed order is RR - LF - LR - RF... No idea why that is. On 97-00 C5's it's RR - LR - RF - LF...

And +1 on bleeding the whole system. If you're going to do two you may as well do them all. Out of curiosity, did you only paint your front calipers or did you just paint the rears in place?


Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Aug 10, 2011 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by runner140*
An old machanic's philosophy.....bleed first the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and the last wheel bleed should be the left front.
If you really think about it shouldn't you bleed the wheel closest to the master cylinder first then end on the one farthest? It just seems like the longest brake line would take the longest to get an air bubble out of and with all the pumping you'd be doing bleeding the closer lines you would almost be guranteed to work any bubbles to the end of the longer lines. IDK, maybe i'm thinking too much into it.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mxdave91
If you really think about it shouldn't you bleed the wheel closest to the master cylinder first then end on the one farthest? It just seems like the longest brake line would take the longest to get an air bubble out of and with all the pumping you'd be doing bleeding the closer lines you would almost be guranteed to work any bubbles to the end of the longer lines. IDK, maybe i'm thinking too much into it.
You should get all the air out no matter what sequence you bleed in. My understanding is that the furthest to closest approach is to minimize mixing the old and new fluid... I found this article one time while I was doing a little research:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
You should get all the air out no matter what sequence you bleed in. My understanding is that the furthest to closest approach is to minimize mixing the old and new fluid... I found this article one time while I was doing a little research:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml
I see now. I was only thinking getting the air out and not taking into account adding new fluid. I think you guys may have inspired me to change my brake fluid!
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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If you haven't done it already, invest in a Motive brake bleeding kit. Its about $75 and it makes bleeding the brakes a 1 to 2 hour job. Also just takes one person!

Mike V
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeV
If you haven't done it already, invest in a Motive brake bleeding kit. Its about $75 and it makes bleeding the brakes a 1 to 2 hour job. Also just takes one person!

Mike V
That will make the wife happy. Should have no trouble getting that purchase approved
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeV
If you haven't done it already, invest in a Motive brake bleeding kit. Its about $75 and it makes bleeding the brakes a 1 to 2 hour job. Also just takes one person!

Mike V


Mine paid for itself the first time I used it
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 12:09 AM
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Stable Energies in Garfield, NJ sells the Motive Power brake bleeder complete with adapter for $59.95. I know because I just bought one today. You can contact them at 973-773-3177 or www.StableEnergies.com. They also carry Motul brake fluid, seats and all sorts of racing equipment. I have it on my agenda to do my car this weekend.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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Wouldn't this be easier than buying a Motive canister (then have to store it somewhere)? Buy the adapter, set up your compressor to ~15-20psi, then refill the master with full fresh, and then open each wheel end bleeder? (of course keeping master full at all times between wheel ends)What am I missing?

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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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I've heard if you get air in the ECBM you need some type of scan tool to operate the valves. So what ever you do don't let the resevoir run dry
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Dale002
I've heard if you get air in the ECBM you need some type of scan tool to operate the valves. So what ever you do don't let the resevoir run dry
Good advice. You'll need a Tech II to properly bleed the ABS module if you introduce air into it so keep that reservoir full... I've heard some say that you can open the ABS module to purge the air with 20 - 25 psi of pressure in the system which you can achieve easily with a power bleeder or a compressor but I've never tried it myself so I'm not sure.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Anyone know where you can buy a cap with a quick disconnect for an air compressor? This photo appears to have a fitting for a hose not a compressor quick disconnect which I first thought it was, and also runs 60 bucks!

I can't seem to find one on the web....

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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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So anything I need to know after changing ebcm ?
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