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I have read all the postings on the start problems and thank you for all the information.
My problem after changing the starter, Anti theft deterrant relay, checking all the wiring and running through all the learn tests on the key pass is it seems like the BCM forgets, or when it goes to sleep it doesn't wake up with the entry of the key. If I wait 3min the starter engages but no fuel, if I wait for 10 more sec then it starts sometimes with security light on all the time and sometimes it is out. Very frustrated after trying all tthe postings and help but still have problems.
Thanks
I have read all the postings on the start problems and thank you for all the information.
My problem after changing the starter, Anti theft deterrant relay, checking all the wiring and running through all the learn tests on the key pass is it seems like the BCM forgets, or when it goes to sleep it doesn't wake up with the entry of the key. If I wait 3min the starter engages but no fuel, if I wait for 10 more sec then it starts sometimes with security light on all the time and sometimes it is out. Very frustrated after trying all tthe postings and help but still have problems.
Thanks
An absolute fix would be to have your local tuner or get a mail order tuner to TURN OFF the theft system---
However be aware that you won't have any theft device which isn't a big deal anyway to me--
Trying to track down a VATS system error can be expensive (labor wise)--with no gaurantees of ever finding a solution--
The fuel shutting off is from the VATS-- If you want to try and track down the cause--look for bad grounds or try using another key for the same vehicle--
Mystery codes are;
P1631
B2721
but not all the time. I have cleaned all ground points per previous posting. Car ia starting now but I have to wait the 3min and 10 sec sometimes and security light is also on sometimes but not always. Thanks
Thanks, tried using another key but nothing changes. cleaned all the grounds including the two wires above the starter.still faulting the pass key but not all the time. Thanks
Mystery codes are;
P1631
B2721
but not all the time. I have cleaned all ground points per previous posting. Car ia starting now but I have to wait the 3min and 10 sec sometimes and security light is also on sometimes but not always. Thanks
Most likely a bad lock cylinder. You can verify everything with a meter, before ordering the part.
Thanks for your response. I think you are correct. I found another Curlee posting on ignition switches and I will overhaul my ignition lock next. Thanks again.
Thanks for your response. I think you are correct. I found another Curlee posting on ignition switches and I will overhaul my ignition lock next. Thanks again.
I have not read over Bills ignition switch completely, but I'm fairly certain, that it is for the repair of the ignition switch.....not the lock cylinder.
Last edited by lucky131969; Jun 15, 2011 at 01:37 PM.
If your having a VATS issue, you are having an issue with the KEY SENSOR on "FRONT" of the ignition switch. The silver can has fingers inside the can that contact the resistor pellet in the key. That key chip resistance is read by the BCM and MUST MATCH the value inside the BCM
If the sensor or the key chip is dirty, the incorrect resistance will be read. You can read the resistance of the resistor pellet on the key with an OHM METER and write down that value.
Disconnect the Key Sensor from the harness, insert the key inside the ignition switch and read the resistance value on the pig tail off the sensor. Those resistance values should match or be very very close to matching!!!
If ther way different, you have issues with the sensor.
Heres a picture of the sensor and the pigtail on the end of the ignition switch!
Thanks you are correct. I'm going to read the resistance on the pig tail from the VATS key reader on the front of the ignition tumbler and see if it is the same as the key. Thanks for your input it is really appreciated.
Thanks Bill your postings are really helpful. I will read all the resistance on Ignition reader and lock tonight. I feel I'm actually getting closer to the fix, or some light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks again
Just for the fun of it measure your pellet today and swing by radio shack. For as little as two dollars you could figure out tonight while its apart if the bcm is even reading the resistance by plugging the resistor/s into the vats connector.
Just for the fun of it measure your pellet today and swing by radio shack. For as little as two dollars you could figure out tonight while its apart if the bcm is even reading the resistance by plugging the resistor/s into the vats connector.
......or for no cost at all, you can just take a resistance measurement, as previously suggested by Bill.
......or for no cost at all, you can just take a resistance measurement, as previously suggested by Bill.
I'm not trying to override what Bill suggested I've read a many of his great posts..but even after cleaning it if it did ever fail to work again he could use the resistor until he could get a new switch in. For having to do all the disassembling to get to the connector, $2 worth of resistor would be worth the instant gratification that it would start up with no problems even before cleaning the switch.
If your having a VATS issue, you are having an issue with the KEY SENSOR on "FRONT" of the ignition switch. The silver can has fingers inside the can that contact the resistor pellet in the key. That key chip resistance is read by the BCM and MUST MATCH the value inside the BCM
If the sensor or the key chip is dirty, the incorrect resistance will be read. You can read the resistance of the resistor pellet on the key with an OHM METER and write down that value.
Disconnect the Key Sensor from the harness, insert the key inside the ignition switch and read the resistance value on the pig tail off the sensor. Those resistance values should match or be very very close to matching!!!
If ther way different, you have issues with the sensor.
Heres a picture of the sensor and the pigtail on the end of the ignition switch!
Hi Bill....I had a similar problem with my VATS but It seemed to be the key, not the switch. Not long ago I had to use my spare key, wife mistakenly took mine with her, (well, I think it was a mistake). Car would crank up fine, idle as usual. When I put it in gear (forward/reverse), it would roll about 2 feet & stall. Later that evening, when I got my keys back, tried it with that key & it did fine, as usual. Changed keys & it would stall. I knew that was the VATS kickin in. Held the two keys side by side & the spare key was worn considerably, almost a slant on the forward portion. I guess the spare was worn so much, it wasn't making contact like it should. Got two spare keys made & keep one hidden in the car. My 1st key still works great. Just thought I would throw that in. Everybody (& previous posts) told me it was my ignition switch, had I not tried the other key I would have replaced the ignition switch. BTW, love reading your posts, I always go looking for your post before anything else. Keep up the good work & thanks for all your knowledge.
I'm not trying to override what Bill suggested I've read a many of his great posts..but even after cleaning it if it did ever fail to work again he could use the resistor until he could get a new switch in. For having to do all the disassembling to get to the connector, $2 worth of resistor would be worth the instant gratification that it would start up with no problems even before cleaning the switch.
right.....there is no "cleaning"...just replacement. I guess I like isolating a problem first, and then coming up with a fix/work around......to each their own.
right.....there is no "cleaning"...just replacement. I guess I like isolating a problem first, and then coming up with a fix/work around......to each their own.
I agree...Bill is right on with the switch check. I, in no way, have the knowledge to dispute what he says & was glad he told about how to check the switch. Another thing I didn't know, LOL. I just had a unique situation arise with the spare key. If I had lost my keys and had to use my spare, I'd probably still be sitting in the driveway trying to figure out what in the hell was wrong ( & probably saying a few choice words ). I was just saying that's another thing to check also. I never realized they (pellet) would wear like that & I would think the same could happen in the ignition switch. I wish I could take a close up pic of the 2 keys to show how much it is worn down. Btw, one thing I wanted to ask Bill was if any switch (1997-2004) would be the same or would it have to be a year specific switch. (Just in case).
Lucky and Bill, Thanks for all your help and everyone else that answered my posting. I found a LOOSE pin on the key reader connector as per Bill's suggestion. Everytime I put the key in it the resistance was different and the BCM was having a problem deciding which resistance to use. After fixing connector I have 10 successful starts and 0 codes and no pull key issues. I believe we have a good fix. Thanks everyone for your help.
Don8585
FANTASTIC! Thank You for posting the result and deficiency! It helps a lot of other people understand the issue and fix their own problems in the future!