Pulley off now what????
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Pulley off now what????
2002 M6...
im in the process of putting on a new harmonic balancer.... i got the old balancer off and timing cover off... im thinking WHILE IM IN HERE what else should i do... i decided i am going to put in a TR224 cam @114lsa (got to comply with the cali smog laws), new LS2 timing chain, new oil pump. im also putting on a new water pump. I currently have the intake off and am thinking about pulling the heads since i have to change out the springs anyway. I would like to go with a thinner head gasket... Any suggestions? Im probably going to stick with the stock LS1 intake, injectors (the all ohm out around 12.2 or so) and throttle body. is there anything anyone else would change out while they are at it if you were me????
thank ya'll
im in the process of putting on a new harmonic balancer.... i got the old balancer off and timing cover off... im thinking WHILE IM IN HERE what else should i do... i decided i am going to put in a TR224 cam @114lsa (got to comply with the cali smog laws), new LS2 timing chain, new oil pump. im also putting on a new water pump. I currently have the intake off and am thinking about pulling the heads since i have to change out the springs anyway. I would like to go with a thinner head gasket... Any suggestions? Im probably going to stick with the stock LS1 intake, injectors (the all ohm out around 12.2 or so) and throttle body. is there anything anyone else would change out while they are at it if you were me????
thank ya'll
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Florence SC
I just went through the timing chain ordeal. Many members will tell you the slack that is present in the stock timing set is Ok, and it may be for them, It wasn't for me. I chose a single roller Rollmaster timing set bought from Scogg & Dickey (89.95 i think) It tightened things up like they should be. With the stock sloppy chain I could see my cam timing being ~ 4-6 degrees retarded. I ordered a Katech chain also and that didn't help at all still lots of slack in the chain. I've used the Rollmaster brand before in earlier SBC's and they are quality parts. JMO though. Good luck.
Last edited by bracketshark; Jun 17, 2011 at 11:52 PM.
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From: Jonesboro, AR
You could certainly go with an .045 gasket and pick up a bit of compression. I would say you could fit a skyscraper under there even after the gasket but I'd clay it to make sure, as any responsible engine builder would. Also, I don't see lifters in the list. Go ahead and spend another $150 and get a set of LS7's.
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You could certainly go with an .045 gasket and pick up a bit of compression. I would say you could fit a skyscraper under there even after the gasket but I'd clay it to make sure, as any responsible engine builder would. Also, I don't see lifters in the list. Go ahead and spend another $150 and get a set of LS7's.
Last edited by 69SSC5; Jun 18, 2011 at 04:51 PM.
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I just went through the timing chain ordeal. Many members will tell you the slack that is present in the stock timing set is Ok, and it may be for them, It wasn't for me. I chose a single roller Rollmaster timing set bought from Scogg & Dickey (89.95 i think) It tightened things up like they should be. With the stock sloppy chain I could see my cam timing being ~ 4-6 degrees retarded. I ordered a Katech chain also and that didn't help at all still lots of slack in the chain. I've used the Rollmaster brand before in earlier SBC's and they are quality parts. JMO though. Good luck.
did the Rollmaster chain get all the slack out? if so where did you get it and how much?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 986
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 986
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Another thing I did was replace the oil pump with a melling stock pump. I did my own port work on it and added 1 washer shim to the spring. My oil pressure went from 25-30 psi hot at idle to 42 psi. i'm happy now with my oil pressure. By the way Bill Curlee sent me a tip on torqing the balancer bolt, Use a strap rench to hold the balancer, it worked great for me. 240 ft #'s is a lot to pull though. (thanks Bill)
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From: Jonesboro, AR
If it's not something you want to do then you'll probably be ok. I just don't know the mileage on the car, but it honestly wouldn't matter to me simply because the lifters are nearly 10 years old. LS7 are what all older lifters superceded to, they are just the new design. If you go order some GM lifters from SDP for the Vette they will send you LS7's.
Wow I'm surprised it held! I used the chain method with putting the hook in the inner bars of the pulley and then wrapping it around the frame horn. I would have swore if that chain was any smaller either it would have broke or the bolt would have
. Getting it seated and then the extra 30 ftlbs isn't bad. I never got it the full 140* afterwards to stretch the new bolt, 120* was all I could physically do with the cheater I could fit under there working off the jack stands. 2000 miles later I still have no wobble so I guess it was enough.
. Getting it seated and then the extra 30 ftlbs isn't bad. I never got it the full 140* afterwards to stretch the new bolt, 120* was all I could physically do with the cheater I could fit under there working off the jack stands. 2000 miles later I still have no wobble so I guess it was enough.
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From: Jonesboro, AR
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From: Western NY
Is the Rollmaster chain (and pulleys) a direct replacement, or do you need to replace anything else like tensioners, etc?
Thanks!
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From: Jonesboro, AR
Here's a pic of mine for visual reference.
Last edited by bo.benson; Jun 19, 2011 at 03:04 PM.
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that is correct i have the LS6 intake.... i took it off to check and it is flat on the bottom...
What about polishing/porting the throttle body,,,, ive heard of a few people mention this in their mods???
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 986
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Wow I'm surprised it held! I used the chain method with putting the hook in the inner bars of the pulley and then wrapping it around the frame horn. I would have swore if that chain was any smaller either it would have broke or the bolt would have. Getting it seated and then the extra 30 ftlbs isn't bad. I never got it the full 140* afterwards to stretch the new bolt, 120* was all I could physically do with the cheater I could fit under there working off the jack stands. 2000 miles later I still have no wobble so I guess it was enough.[/QUOTE]
Wow I'm suprise you didn't intercourse something up hooking a CHAIN to your balancer for tightening purposes. The stock balancers are problems enought without that extra pressure. I installed a ATI balancer and cut an old belt and wraped it around twice to protect the pulley. You need a real strap wrench though not one of the mickey mouse ones. 240 ft #'s was about all I could do to to click the torque wrench. I wouldn't have had clue how to geter done if not for Bill's suggestion.
. Getting it seated and then the extra 30 ftlbs isn't bad. I never got it the full 140* afterwards to stretch the new bolt, 120* was all I could physically do with the cheater I could fit under there working off the jack stands. 2000 miles later I still have no wobble so I guess it was enough.[/QUOTE]Wow I'm suprise you didn't intercourse something up hooking a CHAIN to your balancer for tightening purposes. The stock balancers are problems enought without that extra pressure. I installed a ATI balancer and cut an old belt and wraped it around twice to protect the pulley. You need a real strap wrench though not one of the mickey mouse ones. 240 ft #'s was about all I could do to to click the torque wrench. I wouldn't have had clue how to geter done if not for Bill's suggestion.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Jonesboro, AR
Wow I'm suprise you didn't intercourse something up hooking a CHAIN to your balancer for tightening purposes. The stock balancers are problems enought without that extra pressure. I installed a ATI balancer and cut an old belt and wraped it around twice to protect the pulley. You need a real strap wrench though not one of the mickey mouse ones. 240 ft #'s was about all I could do to to click the torque wrench. I wouldn't have had clue how to geter done if not for Bill's suggestion.
I wish I had talked to Bill prior to doing mine and I would have quit at 240 ftlbs. Method in the manual IIRC is torque the old bolt down to 240 and back it off, put the new bolt in to 30 ftlbs then an addtional 140*. I would estimate it to be somewhere above 300 ftlbs.
You can do it yourself if your confident you want to tackle it. I think ccajun4real was doing porting and polishing for a decent price, you just send him your unit and he sends you one already completed. *I was thinking zo6 was larger but that is the MAF*
Last edited by bo.benson; Jun 19, 2011 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Wrong Information
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Is that the "family room"?
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...na if you'll notice that beige looking carpet in the background is actually pebbled concrete. Thats the office at my buddies shop. He decided to make it more customer friendly with the furniture.
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Seemed like it was pretty widely accepted method on Tech. It was either that or the belt method. I figured the belt would slip about the time I got it to a position where I could break my knuckles. I didn't think it would damage any parts since you are on the frame with one end and aren't stressing the rubber by using the center bars. Just make sure you don't use a chain too large or it'll get hung behind the pulley
I wish I had talked to Bill prior to doing mine and I would have quit at 240 ftlbs. Method in the manual IIRC is torque the old bolt down to 240 and back it off, put the new bolt in to 30 ftlbs then an addtional 140*. I would estimate it to be somewhere above 300 ftlbs.*
I wish I had talked to Bill prior to doing mine and I would have quit at 240 ftlbs. Method in the manual IIRC is torque the old bolt down to 240 and back it off, put the new bolt in to 30 ftlbs then an addtional 140*. I would estimate it to be somewhere above 300 ftlbs.*
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From: Western NY
Are you sure they said "red" Loctite? That's the "permanent" stuff. I would have thought the "blue" was appropriate, in case you ever had to remove the pulley....
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From: Jonesboro, AR
Red lock tight is what should be used, it isn't really "permanent" it will come off. It's just considered the strongest, which you want to use on something of this importance.