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PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT...do it or not?

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Default PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT...do it or not?

I am doing a CLUTCH on my car. The car has 44K on it, curious if it is really necessary or not. The one in the car looks fine.

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Ya know,,, Mr MURPHY has specific laws on pilpt bearings and throw out bearings! I think it's law# 32755.

It states: If pilot bearings and throwout bearings are good and not replaced, One week after the new clutch is in, the old stuff will fail.

Murphys Law# 32756 states that the components, when they fail, will fail when your 300 + miles from home!

If it were me,,,,,,,, I would replace it!

NOTE! DO NOT let the weight of the Torque Tube/Trans/Differential droop on the clutch disk or pilot bearing!

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jun 20, 2011 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Ya know,,, Mr MURPHY has specific laws on pilpt bearings and throw out bearings! I think it's law# 32755.

It states: If pilot bearings and throwout bearings are good and not replaced, One week after the new clutch is in, the old stuff will fail.

Murphys Law# 32756 states that the components, when they fail, will fail when your 300 + miles from home!

If it were me,,,,,,,, I would replace it!

NOTE! DO NOT let the weight of the Torque Tube/Trans/Differential droop on the clutch disk or pilot bearing!

BC



I know what you mean. This is my second install in the last three weeks. I did one on a buddies car and now my CLUTCH took a dump and here goes mine...of course, my ride is modded, his was not with half the miles. NAVET on a boat, never owned a manual and learned the hard way.

I appreciate it.

Micah
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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If I was doing it on mine, I would probably replace it just so I know that I did everything I could for a sucessfull install. I would probably throw in a Tick bleeder to.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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I replace mine just because I love doing the "bread" trick to remove the old one.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BlueBomber
I replace mine just because I love doing the "bread" trick to remove the old one.


What does this? Details man.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Well,,, if it involves inserting BREAD in the bearing cavity until NO MORE will fit and ramming a dowel into the bearing to force it out

"DO NOT DO IT!!!!!!!"

Same thing for grease!

The Crankshaft in an LS engine is hollow. The end of the crank contains a WELSH PLUG (like a freeze plug) that is pressed into the recess to seal the oil from leaking out of the crank into the bell housing.

IF you use that trick to remove the pilot bearing, it is highly likely and very possible that you will unseat that plug and have a massive oil in the crank to bell housing leak!!!

BC
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well,,, if it involves inserting BREAD in the bearing cavity until NO MORE will fit and ramming a dowel into the bearing to force it out

"DO NOT DO IT!!!!!!!"

Same thing for grease!

The Crankshaft in an LS engine is hollow. The end of the crank contains a WELSH PLUG (like a freeze plug) that is pressed into the recess to seal the oil from leaking out of the crank into the bell housing.

IF you use that trick to remove the pilot bearing, it is highly likely and very possible that you will unseat that plug and have a massive oil in the crank to bell housing leak!!!

BC
Is that what that puddle in my floor is???

I have done it multiple times with no issue, granted I didnt slam bread into my crank with a sledge hammer. But seriously I have had no issues doing it that way but heard the same thing when I posted about doing it.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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That's why they make a pilot bearing removal tool!
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BlueBomber
I replace mine just because I love doing the "bread" trick to remove the old one.
I've heard many more negative results than possitive, on using that method for pilot bearing removal.

Way,way, too much labor involved, to take a chance using that method.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
That's why they make a pilot bearing removal tool!
But I get hungry in the garage and the two just go hand in hand... have a sandwich and remove the pilot bearing with the leftovers...
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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I bought a nice little pilot bearing tool that does not require the hammer method. $14.95 on ebay and $51 to ship to Hawaii. Reeeeeeeediculous!
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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OK, here is another tip. We always remove the snap ring at the back of the torque tube and remove the propshaft assembly. Bolt the torque tube housing up to the bellhousing flush, then insert the propshaft assembly from behind. This will assure you do not damage the pilot bearing fiddling around trying to get the angle just right. More times than not I see the pilot bearing fail as a result of a poor install.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney@rpmtransmissions
OK, here is another tip. We always remove the snap ring at the back of the torque tube and remove the propshaft assembly. Bolt the torque tube housing up to the bellhousing flush, then insert the propshaft assembly from behind. This will assure you do not damage the pilot bearing fiddling around trying to get the angle just right. More times than not I see the pilot bearing fail as a result of a poor install.
Great tip/idea ... But I wonder where to purchase, & what size
(Has to be huge) snap ring pliers.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Great tip/idea ... But I wonder where to purchase, & what size
(Has to be huge) snap ring pliers.
I have a few pairs, I bought them off of eBay. I just looked and there is not a pair avaliable right now. I search under 6L80E, they have a large snap ring that requires them. There is a pair on eBay right now but NOT the good ones. The pairs we have are made by Kent-Moore and I think I paid around $50 a pair for them.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney@rpmtransmissions
I have a few pairs, I bought them off of eBay. I just looked and there is not a pair avaliable right now. I search under 6L80E, they have a large snap ring that requires them. There is a pair on eBay right now but NOT the good ones. The pairs we have are made by Kent-Moore and I think I paid around $50 a pair for them.

Thanx!
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well,,, if it involves inserting BREAD in the bearing cavity until NO MORE will fit and ramming a dowel into the bearing to force it out

"DO NOT DO IT!!!!!!!"

Same thing for grease!

The Crankshaft in an LS engine is hollow. The end of the crank contains a WELSH PLUG (like a freeze plug) that is pressed into the recess to seal the oil from leaking out of the crank into the bell housing.

IF you use that trick to remove the pilot bearing, it is highly likely and very possible that you will unseat that plug and have a massive oil in the crank to bell housing leak!!!

BC
Come on Bill....there is always someone that "knows" better. Eventually they will screw up.....and it makes for entertaining reading.
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To PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT...do it or not?

Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Come on Bill....there is always someone that "knows" better. Eventually they will screw up.....and it makes for entertaining reading.
I will keep you posted...
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
That's why they make a pilot bearing removal tool!
that tool is a joke, you need a bigger slide hammer, i have OTC slide hammer, did not budge, but i do have bigger slide hammer at work and this time worked but still needed lots of muscle.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mph1972
I bought a nice little pilot bearing tool that does not require the hammer method. $14.95 on ebay and $51 to ship to Hawaii. Reeeeeeeediculous!
Dont waste money on that, you can try, i have a nice $189 Snap on pilot bearing tool too, pilot bearing said ***** you, you aint pulling my azz.

Had to use bigger slide hammer.
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