ball joints
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 31
From: Jacksonville Florida
ball joints
I had to remove everything from the rear to install longer wheel studs to do the OEM C6 wheels. I want to ask if I should inject some grease in the boots of the ball joints while I have it apart? Upper and lower ball joints had to come off to get to the last star bolt under the C/V axle. Luckily they were not a PITA kinda just popped out. Any info on shooting a bit-O- grease in them boots? Yea or Nay?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
My only concern would be the additional grease not being compatible with the factory "lifetime lube" already in the joint.
You could probably use a synthetic grease fortified with teflon, but that's only my guess.
You could probably use a synthetic grease fortified with teflon, but that's only my guess.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 188
From: Tampa FL
St. Jude Donor '13
I recently replaced the balljoints on my 2000 with the adjustable ones from Pfad Racing and bought eurothane dust caps for them (along with eurothane bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, Johnny O'Connel shocks, sway bars and end links kit).
I played around with the stock balljoints a bit. You can carefully pop off the rubber boot with a dull large flat blade screwdriver (big bottom side). It has a springlock style retaining device to hold it in place. I was able to put them back on without tearing the boot. It did take a few tries to get the dust boot back on. I would pack as much grease in there as possibly but not sure it would make it to the bottom of the balljoint. I think adding grease is better than no grease. I have all 4 stock ball joint dust covers if you happen to hurt one. Just PM me your address and I'll send you one.
I played around with the stock balljoints a bit. You can carefully pop off the rubber boot with a dull large flat blade screwdriver (big bottom side). It has a springlock style retaining device to hold it in place. I was able to put them back on without tearing the boot. It did take a few tries to get the dust boot back on. I would pack as much grease in there as possibly but not sure it would make it to the bottom of the balljoint. I think adding grease is better than no grease. I have all 4 stock ball joint dust covers if you happen to hurt one. Just PM me your address and I'll send you one.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 31
From: Jacksonville Florida
I recently replaced the balljoints on my 2000 with the adjustable ones from Pfad Racing and bought eurothane dust caps for them (along with eurothane bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, Johnny O'Connel shocks, sway bars and end links kit).
I played around with the stock balljoints a bit. You can carefully pop off the rubber boot with a dull large flat blade screwdriver (big bottom side). It has a springlock style retaining device to hold it in place. I was able to put them back on without tearing the boot. It did take a few tries to get the dust boot back on. I would pack as much grease in there as possibly but not sure it would make it to the bottom of the balljoint. I think adding grease is better than no grease. I have all 4 stock ball joint dust covers if you happen to hurt one. Just PM me your address and I'll send you one.
I played around with the stock balljoints a bit. You can carefully pop off the rubber boot with a dull large flat blade screwdriver (big bottom side). It has a springlock style retaining device to hold it in place. I was able to put them back on without tearing the boot. It did take a few tries to get the dust boot back on. I would pack as much grease in there as possibly but not sure it would make it to the bottom of the balljoint. I think adding grease is better than no grease. I have all 4 stock ball joint dust covers if you happen to hurt one. Just PM me your address and I'll send you one.
