Just curious because the instructions simply say to adjust it out until you can slip into 1st easily. While I'd guess this works more often than not it doesn't seem a very methodical way to go about it. Is there a spec for the air gap that I should shoot for?

 

I started @ the shortest stroke.
That would be with the slave rod & heilm joint turned into the turn buckle all the way in (shortest)
I ended up w/8 complete turns of each end & then of course tightened the two jam nuts to keep every thing staying in their proper positions.
Haven't had to re adjust & it's been a couple of months now & also
9 passes @ the strip. It's been flawless.

 

How was the install? I'll be doing mine in about 10 days,just wondering what to expect.

 

I took the drivers seat out. Made things easier as far as the clutch bracket/pedal removal & reinstall.
You will need to drill two holes into the backside of the bracket to accept the Tick unit.
You will need to have a 5/8" disconnect tool. It makes the removal/
reinstall of the slave to clutch m/c, disconnect a snap.
It's best to bench bleed the new unit or bleed the Tick before reconnecting the disconect ( I did the later method.)
I suggest getting the spring loaded anodized aluminum style tool.
I found a 4 piece set @ Auto Zone (part #25183, made by OEM tools for professionals) for $20. It includes sizes= 1/2",
5/8", 3/4" & 7/8".
Installing the Tick adjustable is worth the time,effort & money, in
my opinion.
Good luck.

 

Getting the pedal assembly back in was a gigantic PITA because there's no room to get your hand up in there to thread on the nuts. I ended up wedging the nuts into a gear wrench with a piece of paper. Then I used a long screwdriver to apply pressure to the nut so that the wrench could ratchet.

I also had a little trouble with the template. I swear I centered that thing perfectly, but the placement of the holes didn't have enough clearance with the sides of the pedal bracket to get the allen bolts through. Ended up having to open up the holes about 10° CCW which of course meant putting washers under the bolt heads now that the hole is oversized.

But regardless 3 hours later it was in there. I just need to hook up the reservoir and bleed it tonight.

 

Wcsinx, in regards to your last post.
I found that if you use a long handled rachet box end wrench to remove & install the nuts worked quite fine. The secret is to insert the nut into the box end & apply a small strip of duct tape over the back side of the wrench & nut together, to get it started.
In regards to the template, it's perfect.
The very top of the allen head bolts need to be ground down some,on the bench grinder, beause the outside head of the allen bolt to the inside edge of the bracket is quite snug. Doing this will make the bolt alot easier to start & keep from cross threading. Also I took a long allen wrench & cut the short L shaped end off it & inserted it into a proper size socket. That along with grinding the side of the head down, made it eazy.
(CAUTION!) You don't want to make a larger size hole into the bracket because there isn't much "meat" left, even with the instructed size hole.
You want the bolts to fit snug into the holes.
So grinding down the heads of the bolts, would have been the better way to go.
One more thing that isn't in the instructions from Tick that I did was to add blue loc tite to the bolt to m/c threads & you want to make very sure that you tighten the heck out of the two bolts. I'd hate to think how many times that we push that cluth in & out.
This is one job that you want all parts to stay in their proper positions. The switch over from a stock m/c to Tick is well worth it.

 

If you're grinding down the bolts, then I would challenge the template is most certainly not perfect. My bolts are unmodified. As I said, I simply expanded the holes about 10° CCW, and then they slid right home with no drama. I really think their template should be adjusted similarly. You're right about not being much meat left, but using a couple washers lets the bolts distribute their load on more of the bracket metal. I think I would've used washers even if the bolts had lined up in the first place.

 

I had the same issues with the template. I wish I'd removed the seat, but I didn't think of it. Good idea.

After a few months of use, I'm getting accustomed to the abruptness of the engagement more, and the clutch really feels strong. Totally neccesary, in my case, and worth the hassle. The Tick just flows more fluid, and helps the clutch work.

 

Your right about not having much "meat" left & by making the holes
larger makes the matter worse. Please don't take it personally.

There have been a few post ups here on the forum,in regards to stress fractures in the area that were speaking of.

I mentioned the grinding of the bolt heads so that any one reading these posts & are about to install one of these units wouldn't drill out the holes,any larger than necessary thus eliminating an all ready tight
area, & making for a possible "worse situation"

 

I'm not taking it personally, I'm just saying I solved the problem in a different fashion. Yes, I made the holes slightly larger, but by using washers I'm distributing the load of those bolts over more surface area than yourself. I'm pretty sure I'll be just fine. If not, I can always weld in some heavier stock, but I really doubt it'll come to that.

 

I got mine in today and there was no instructions or template. So I got them to email me a template and none of the holes matched my measurements on master cylinder. I had them fax me a template and it appears that the holes are about 1/8" too close together. I figured the fax machine must have re-sized it or something but apparently thats not the issue. I think I will split the difference and move the holes a 1/16" out a piece.