i got a load of bad gas, real bad, car will barely run. i need to get it out asap. I have trid to syphon it out but i cant get to it. I think the tanks are split anyway...but idk. so i thought id just disconnect the braided fuel hose at the manifold and run the pump until the tank empties. will this work? if so how do i get the dang hose disconnected? i cant figure out how its on there and i dont wanna break anything. thanks for any answers.

matt

 

The hose is a quick-connect fitting. You'll need a fuel line disconnect tool available at any decent auto parts store... Sounds like you might end up dropping the tanks though...

 

I would speak with the owner of the gas station. Make him pay for it.

 

Yeah get ahold of Mohammed and make him suck on that siphon hose.

 

Matt


What makes you think you got bad fuel???????????? Unless you were purchasing the fuel from a bum on the side of the road in gallon Jugs,, its hard to believe you got bad fuel.

PLEASE read and post your DTCs. Heres how:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Get that line off with a fuel line disconnect tool or use an fuel pressure checker hose on the end of the fuel rail and then read Lucky's post below to run the pump. You can empty the tank this way.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1574199890-post2.html

I know. My wife put about 12 gallons of E85 in ours and I pumped it out this way.

HTH

 

I would do it at the rear of the car, instead of the engine bay. Much safer, easier to position a container, etc.

 

ok i got the gas out of her and i put more premimum from a named brand supplier. i thought i had bad gas because id had just added about 6 gallons of premimum to an almost empty tank a few miles before the car started running like crap. I bought the gas from a country store locally because they advertise that its ethanol free. this is not the first time i have purchased there. my thinkin is im probably one of a handful that actually buys premimum there and the gas was getting old or something???

anyway. i empty the tanks, and add good fuel. but its wounded bad. im thinkin ive dropped a valve??? i think a valve spring has broken. its runnin like crap and theres a loud tap coming from the left head. any thoughts? can crappy gas break a valve spring? i have lots of troubleshooting to do. when i find out more ill let yawl know. appreicate any thoughts.

 

You should start by pulling your codes... See post #5 above.

 

Thanks for this. This is really useful INFO! ill post what i find out.

 

If you think you've got a broke valve spring, pull the valve covers and look.

 

I wouldnt run the engine until you pull BOTH valve covers and check for bad springs, damaged rocker trunions, bent pushrods, damaged retainer etc.

You can also read the DTCs without running the engine. Post whats there.

NO,, BAD fuel (and I HONESTLY do not believe you had bad fuel) will NOT damage a spring. If you had BAD preignition (KNOCK) it could have damaged a rod, a Piston or a ring land. Other than that,, CHECK YOUR SPRINGS and ROCKERS!

BC

 

ok ran the codes and this is what i got: PO106 HC; PO300 C, BO361 HC, U1064 H, U1160 H, B2605 H. I know the 106 is the MAP and the 300 is the knock sensor, the rest i have no clue. The car went dead at stop signs twice on the way home. So if i understand this right an Historical code could be shown due to the ignition cycle from me restarting the car. I am hoping that all these codes are from this one single event. I am fittin ta pull the valve cover of the suspected side and see what i have. If its a valve spring Ill replace all of em. Ill keep ya posted. if anyone knows what the other codes are please holla.

 

This is from memory, but I think P0300 is a misfire not a knock sensor. Check your plugs and wires. The code reader built into the car is not sophisticated enough to tell you which cylinder (ie. P0301 etc)...

0106 I know for sure is your MAP sensor. Located dead center off the back of the intake manifold. Make sure it's plugged in tight. If you have big hands you'll probably need to pull the manifold to get to the sensor. Be careful not to brake the little hard plastic vacuum line back there when you pull it.

The 0361 is an HVAC code I think. I'm on my iphone not at my computer so I can't check easily. The rest are H codes, clear them and see if they come back. I'd be more concerned with the first two.

 

Usually when we see the P0300 code for misfiring, many times its the grounds on the rear of the driver's side head...the bolt holding them has come lose.

 

ok its offical. #5 intake valve spring broken into. the valve is still in the seal so it didnt drop in the cylinder. im gonna replace every damn one of em. what spring is recommended for a stock LS6? besides springs should i also do the seals too? anything else while im in there? i gotta pic ill try to get it posted.

 

Ya better do a compression test and leakdown test on that cylinder. The valve could have touched the cylinder and could be slightly bent.

Best to be safe!!

 

Will do Bill Thanks for the heads up!

What spring are you guys upgrading to? I need a make and model i wanna get em on the way and get going again. I cant stand the feeling of it being broken.

 

If you plan on staying stock forever, just get some stock replacements. If you want to do a cam in the future, go with some comp 918s or something. Just do a search for valve springs and you'll get a bunch of different opinions.

 

Also, be SURE to get a good compression reading on that cylinder. If you have time, it would be best to pull that head and visually inspect that valve and piston.

When I spun my motor over 9000prm (long story, I'm an idiot) I compression tested and the front four holes all read fairly normal. When the heads came off EVERY valve had hit. Somehow the front four holes were straight enough that they still sealed and fired, but visual inspection showed they were definitely damaged.