When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I plan on doing a cam swap in the near future, doing the labor myself. I'm not sure what type, or size of cam I am going with just yet. I of course love the sound of a huge cam, but I don't want that to be a deciding factor on the type/size cam I go with. This isn't my daily driver, but I want good driveability and I will take it to the 1/4 mile every now and then, and even on some road trips +/- 6 hrs. I want to keep my stock heads. So my biggest question/concern is, do I 'need' to replace my lifters? There is currently 20k miles on the car. I would hate to take the heads off JUST for new lifters, but I wouldn't mind the peace of mind. And if I do replace the lifters I 'might' look into getting the heads ported/polished by someone local, haven't looked into cost as of yet. I'm in Houston, so I'm sure I have a few options. My current mods and dyno #'s are in my sig. Sorry for the long post.
Questions:
1. Should I replace my lifters?
2. Any recommendations on cams?
3. Will my tune be erased since my battery will be unpluged for an extended period of time?
4. What's the deal with the thicker cometic gaskets? Should I even worry about doing that?
It is such a pain to get to them that since you are going to be there anyway you might as well replace them. you can get new LS7 lifters from gmpp for like 110 bucks.
It is such a pain to get to them that since you are going to be there anyway you might as well replace them. you can get new LS7 lifters from gmpp for like 110 bucks.
Yea but you have to pull the heads to get to them and he has no reason to pull the heads. I wouldnt waste the time or money on them.
Even if I were pulling the heads, I wouldnt replace 20k mile lifters.
i wouldn't pull the heads just to replace lifters.even if you were going ported heads,20k on lifters is nothing.
just change cam,springs,pushrods,timing chain,and oil pump.
a good all around cam is texas speed 228 with 112 lsa.
your tune will always stay unless you take it to the dealer and they end up flashing the computer.
just stick with stock gasket thickness.but a .045 gasket will give better quinch. .040 sometimes has a hard time sealing.
Thanks for all the input guys. I feel a lot better about not having to pull the damn heads just to change the lifters. Should make this job quiet a bit shorter. I was looking at going with a Texas Speed cam package, so I will check out that 228 cam. Thanks again!!
Yea but you have to pull the heads to get to them and he has no reason to pull the heads. I wouldnt waste the time or money on them.
Even if I were pulling the heads, I wouldnt replace 20k mile lifters.
My bad for some reason I thought he was going to swap heads too.
I'm getting pretty excited, I think I have everything on my parts list and the total is less than $1200. It helps that I already bought a used 25% underdrive pulley for my 99 vette and just never put it on. I think I might order everything in august sometime. Thanks for y'alls help
The 228 is a great choice for something that is not going to be a DD. I just put in a 220 and gained another 35 RHP. It idles like stock. you cant really tell it is in there unless you know to listen for it. The other thing is the car a a lot louder now with the extra air flow. Unless you plan on doing heads the 228 may be over what your current ones can flow at. I am sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in here.
As far as doing it yourself, all I can say is be prepared. I used to build engines and turn wrenches myself. I did mine in the garage and it took me all of around 12 hours total time. Most of it trying to figure out the best way to do things and a few hours changing out springs. If you do not have much experience doing something like that I would suggest you have someone help out that knows how to do it and has done one of these in the past. And have the correct tools. It is in relative terms easy to do but there are several things that if done wrong can really ruin your day.
Thanks for all the input guys. I feel a lot better about not having to pull the damn heads just to change the lifters. Should make this job quiet a bit shorter. I was looking at going with a Texas Speed cam package, so I will check out that 228 cam. Thanks again!!
FWIW Six months ago I installed a 224/230 .581/.588 113 LSA. My Coupe already had the LS6 intake. I added a set of stock 243 heads. Made tons of power (416 rwhp 392 rwtq) on a Mustang Dyno. I wanted to let you know that mine is a DD, and even with the 113 LSA there is a definite audible and tactile lope. A 112 LSA will shake you quite well at idle.
The 228 is a great choice for something that is not going to be a DD. I just put in a 220 and gained another 35 RHP. It idles like stock. you cant really tell it is in there unless you know to listen for it. The other thing is the car a a lot louder now with the extra air flow. Unless you plan on doing heads the 228 may be over what your current ones can flow at. I am sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in here.
As far as doing it yourself, all I can say is be prepared. I used to build engines and turn wrenches myself. I did mine in the garage and it took me all of around 12 hours total time. Most of it trying to figure out the best way to do things and a few hours changing out springs. If you do not have much experience doing something like that I would suggest you have someone help out that knows how to do it and has done one of these in the past. And have the correct tools. It is in relative terms easy to do but there are several things that if done wrong can really ruin your day.
A few years back I tore into my 98 Z28 with an LS1, of course. The most I had done before was change the oil on a car. I printed out some instructions from ls1howto.com and I a head swap. It wasn't hard, just time consuming. So I'm confident that I can tackle the cam swap. I will definitely have a pair of helping hands though. I appreciate the heads up.
FWIW Six months ago I installed a 224/230 .581/.588 113 LSA. My Coupe already had the LS6 intake. I added a set of stock 243 heads. Made tons of power (416 rwhp 392 rwtq) on a Mustang Dyno. I wanted to let you know that mine is a DD, and even with the 113 LSA there is a definite audible and tactile lope. A 112 LSA will shake you quite well at idle.
Enjoy your new found power.
So, I think I am set on the TSP 228r...for now. I have read nothing but good things about the all around performance. I will be getting a 112lsa for sure.
[QUOTE=sgostisha;1578141838] Unless you plan on doing heads the 228 may be over what your current ones can flow at. I am sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in here.
QUOTE]
He has a Z06, so his heads can handle the 228 fine
"Do I JUST need the LS2 timing chain, or the LS2 timing chain set?"
Just the chain
remember to get a new (the correct size) oil pump o-ring, and make SURE it is not pinched when installing it
If your lifters are the "fully encapsulated roller" type, which has the roller completely surrounded by the lifter body, I'd leave them in.
If they're not, and have the roller supported only by two struts, I'd replace them. LS7 lifters, Morels, and Mellings are all reasonably well-known options. And if you do buy new lifters, get a set of GM LS2 lifter trays to hold them in place.
Questions:
1. Should I replace my lifters? no
2. Any recommendations on cams? Custom gring or 228r
3. Will my tune be erased since my battery will be unpluged for an extended period of time? You need a tune with new cam. Will keep tune if battery uninstalled after
4. What's the deal with the thicker cometic gaskets? Should I even worry about doing that? Leave them alone, but replace other gaskets with new ones.
Take your time and make sure lifters don't drop during install