Hey guys, Ive been having a random (about 1-2 times a month) no start issue...I have a brand new battery, checked/cleaned all of my grounds, and I have checked the pins inside the connectors for the door control modules.

Here are my codes

TCS- 1281 H C and 1288 H C..... These codes are caused because i accidentally rotated the steering shaft while it was disconnected from the rack...I know, my bad on that part.

BCM- 2723 H C....im pretty sure my ignition contact points need to be cleaned or the ignition needs to be replaced.

Also my air pump continuously turns on and off every 2-3 seconds when the car is fully warmed up.

any help would be greatly appreciated. I would like to fix my issues myself besides the steering code issues as i will have to take it to the stealership and hopefully i did not break the clock spring.

 

I would suspect the VATS sensor, its on the ignition switch and its what reads the pellet in the key. You can get to it by taking the bezel off the center instrument panel which covers your ignition switch also and its right there. There are two wires coming from it and just under the dash is a connector.

All things being equal and if it will start up, usually, then it seems thats a common problem. I went thru this a few months ago and checked everything and was about ready to take it to someone who knew more than me about cars...you know who I'm talking about...the stealership...and I just accidently found it not reading the key pellet all the time. If it is that and your security lite comes on when you have a no start, you have to wait the three minutes for a reset. What I did was disconnect the VATS sensors and connect an ohm meter to the two leads and insert the key normally and sometimes it would read, sometimes it wouldn't.

I just made a bypass from some resisters I got from radio shack and havn't had any problems since. The switch was added as a disable switch and hidden under the dash where my wife can't find it, lol. There are some tuners you can use that will bypass the PASS-Key system also. Best of luck to you.
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Ok, I'm going to buy a new ignition and have the shop reindex my steering position sensor. I'll check back if I still have the problem. Still do not know why my air pump is turning on and off constantly tho

 

since im going to replace my ignition to fix the 2723 code...will i need to replace the switch? or the lock cylinder? or both?

 

btw my security light is on all the time

 

Heres a writeup I did sometime back on the PASS-Key system that might help


Trying to chase down intermittent gremlins is the hardest part of troubleshooting.

In reality, the VATS/PASS-Key system is very simple. There are only a couple switches it passes thru (clutch/park, ignition, and TDR) before the BCU can process it and send the correct signals to the PCM (Power Control Module), and Solenoid/Starter.

There is one fuse (10 amp, #14 CRK) prior to the TDR from the ignition switch. Two other fuses (60 amps, IGN 2, #50, and STARTER, #52) are hot at all times. These fuses are located in the passenger footwell. The STARTER fuse is the RED wire to the TDR and from the TDR is the Purple wire to the starter solenoid. Because the solenoid is an electrical/mechanical device, it is subject to sticking and as BC suggested, carrying a big stick might be prudent.

The other part of the PASS-Key system is the key resister sensing terminal, located within the ignition lock cylinder. The BCU sends a 5 volt signal to the sensing terminal and when a key with a pellet is inserted in the ignition it completes the circuit back to the BCU and if it is within a set measurment in the BCU it sends a signal to the TDR Control which provides a ground to the TDR. Once the TDR has the correct power from the ignition switch, through the clutch/park switch, and finds its grnd from the BCU, it closes its contact to allow battery volts (thru the RED wire via the STARTER fuse) to cross to the purple wire and to the starter solenoid. The BCU then sends a signal through the serial data connector to the PCM which allows the fuel pump to operate.

The SECURITY light is controlled by the BCU and if the correct signal isn't recieved from the key resister sensing terminals, it turns it on. While doing my troubleshooting and checking out everything multiple times, I would get the SECURITY light on while driving. This was telling me I was loosing the signal from the sensing terminals in the ignition lock cylinder but since the engine was running and the BCU/PCM were operating properly the engine would stay running. What I did was bypass the sensing terminals with the correct resistant resisters I made, but as a safety precaution, I installed a switch to disconnect the module I made and thus disabling the starter circuit. Otherwise anyone could have put a non-PASSKey key in and driven off with my toy.

If you have a no-start condition and the SECURITY light is NOT on, I would suspect something other than the PASS-Key system. The three fuses would be a good start. If its intermittent, again, without the SECURITY light, then I would suspect the starter/solenoid. If you jumper the RED wire and PURPLE wire at the TDR and the engine doesn't turn over (make sure you're in neutral/park), listen for a clicking sound. That would be the solenoid. If you don't hear that, then it is more likely a faulty solenoid. Those use to be pretty common fault items. Chrysler installs them in an easy access location but GM always mounted them on the starter, too hard to get to most of the time.

I would suspect that if you had BCU or PCM failure, there would be more indications than just a no-start. I'm sure there is more to the system than a back yard mechanic such as myself can understand, let alone do much about, but as BC suggested, carrying a big stick might be a good idea, if not to just threaton your teenager to stay away from your pride and joy...

According to Bill Curlee, you can take the KEY SENSOR off the ignition switch,, take it apart and bend the tabs in side so it reads the resistor chip better! Wish I had thought of that before I went and made a bypass...

The 2723 code only verifies that you're not getting the correct signal back to the BCU (and has nothing to do with your ignition switch itself) and that trips the system into thinking someones trying to steal your ride and turning the SECURITY light on.

I'm into spending as little money on repairable items as possible and I don't really think you need a new ignition switch. While you're bending the tabs for the key sensor you can clean/inspect the contacts in your ignition switch and put some dialectric grease on them afterwards. If they're pitted you can file them down with some sandpaper and bend the tabs to compensate for the removed material from the sanding. Theres a link somewhere that BC showed and explained about the ignition switch. I've learned a lot about my car on this forum, thanks to folks like BC and others, which to me are invaluable and I owe many thanks and a lot of beer to them. As for your AIR pump, heres what I have....

Circuit Description
An AIR pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump.
The PCM monitors the HO2S voltages to diagnose the AIR system.
During the AIR test the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating properly, the HO2S voltages should go low and the short term fuel trim should go high.
If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, DTC P0410 sets. If only one sensor responded, the PCM sets either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate on which bank the AIR system is inoperative.

Conditions for Running the DTC

• DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0171-P0175, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1120, P1220, P1221, P1258, P1441 and HO2S DTCs are not set.
• The engine is running for greater than 2.0 seconds.
• The maximum air flow is 25 g/s.
• The Air Fuel ratio is 14.7:1
• The engine load is less than 34 percent.
• The ignition voltage is greater than 11.7 volts.
• Engine is not operating in Power Enrichment, Decel Fuel Shut-off, or Catalyst Over-Temperature Modes.
• The engine speed is greater than 750 RPM.
• The ECT is greater than 80°C (176°F) but less than 110°C (230°F).
• The IAT is greater than -2°C (28.4°F).
• The fuel system is operating in fuel trim cells 1, 2, 4, 5, or 6.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The HO2S voltage does not go below 222 mV for 1.3 seconds.
OR
The short term fuel trim does not change more than a predetermined value.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

• The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
• The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

• The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
• Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.

Diagnostic Aids

• Remove any debris from the PCM\TAC module connector surfaces before servicing the PCM\TAC module. Inspect the PCM\TAC module connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the modules. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM\TAC modules.
• For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616 . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness/component terminals. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.
• Carbon build up in the exhaust manifold may restrict the amount of air flow necessary to affect the HO2S voltage. If you suspect this, remove the air pipe from the manifold and inspect the passage.
• For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms .

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

1. A check valve that flows in both directions causes heat damage to the AIR system components.

StepActionValuesYesNo1Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?--Go to Step 2 Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check2

1. Install a scan tool.
2. Idle the engine in Closed Loop.
3. Turn OFF all the accessories.
4. Monitor the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Left Front) HO2S voltage display on the Engine 1 Data List using a scan tool.
5. Enable the AIR System using a scan tool.
6. Observe and record the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Left Front) HO2S voltage, as the AIR System is enabled.

Does the HO2S voltage drop below the specified value?

222 mVGo to Diagnostic Aids Go to Step 3 3 Visually/physically inspect all hoses and pipes for:

• Being connected
• Clamps are secure on pipes and hoses
• No kinks, holes, or pinched hoses/pipes
• Components with evidence of heat damage

Did all the above verify to be OK?

--Go to Step 4 Go to Step 6 4

1. Disconnect the hose from the check valve for the Bank 1 AIR system.
2. Enable the AIR System using a scan tool.

Is air present at the hose outlet?
--Go to Step 7 Go to Step 5 5Repair the restriction or blockage in AIR hoses/pipes between the left exhaust manifold and the point where the system branches to both sides of the engine.
Is the action complete?
--Go to Step 8 --6Repair the condition found.
Is the action complete?
--Go to Step 8 --7Replace the check valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection Check Valve and Check Valve Pipe Replacement - Bank 1 .
Is the action complete?

--Go to Step 8 --8

1. Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC Information option using the scan tool.
2. Start the engine and idle at the normal operating temperature.
3. Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
4. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.

Does the scan tool indicate that this test ran and passed?
--Go to Step 9 Go to Step 2 9Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool.
Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--Go to the applicable DTC tableSystem OK

 

I bought a new OEM switch for $70 shipped. I'll install that and do the diagnosis. Thank you guys

 

Also when I get the no start issue. My car will turn over but it will not start up. I get no communication to my PCM