Ive had my 02 C5 for a few months and am getting ready to replace the clutch. I am going with an LS7 setup with all new LS6 hydraulics. While I have the car apart is there anything else that I should consider replacing along the way. This is my first corvette so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

remote bleeder, stiffer tunnel plate, and if it is the original fuel filter, replace that one. plus if your differential is leaking like a lot of C5s now is the time to get it fixed. you might also want to look into torque tube bushings.

 

pilot bearing, throwout bearing, torque tube couplers, and torque tube bearings. a lightweight flywheel wouldn't hurt either, just make sure to transfer the weights if you have them. for the couplers, make sure you get the ones that are made in germany, or you could get the ones from rpm transmissions too. I would get new bolts for the couplers also.

are you running stock power? if so, the ls7 is overkill and will actually slow you down due to the added rotational mass. For stock power, there really isnt much better option than the ls6 clutch.

some of these items i have listed may be overkill also if you have low miles. let us know how many miles are on it.

 

This list could get really long for you. We all love to mod.
I changed my long tube headers when I had my clutch changed. I didn't like the ones that where currently on it. I also had my shocks replaced since half the rear end was on the ground. If you haven't purchased your clutch yet then I would recommend either the Diamond Stg. 2 clutch with light fw.
I'll stop here as I agree with the statements above.
Good luck hanging on to the extra money in your wallet. Once the mod bug bites your extra money finds its way into or onto your Vette.

 

My 02 has 108k on it now...I use it as a DD and only race it here and there. Car is almost completely stock, it has Zip tie mod with K&N filter, smooth coupler, and TB bypass. Other than that everything else is cosmetic. I flushed and changed all fluids and did plugs and wires less than 5k miles ago. Rebuilt both headlights using the kit recommended by you guys (Thanks!) Replaced the battery and did brakes and rotors all the way around. Clutch is next and then I want to concentrate on performance instead of maintenance. I pulled the axles out and greased them which got rid of my clicking sound but still have a clunking under low rpm load and clutch engagement coming from the rear. Maybe the torque tube bushings are to blame? I am planning on very mild mods, with a small nitrous hit (75 or 100).

 

with 102k miles i would definitely do the TT couplers, TT bearings, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing while you are in there.

 

Thanks. Ill add the coupler and bearings to my list. Hopefully that is all I need aside from all the clutch related items.

 

What you SHOULD do:
Replace Pilot Bearing - See Below
Add Remote Bleeder Line - See Below
ARP Flywheel and Pressure Plate Bolts - Don't re-use the old ones. ARPs are the best out there.
Check your differential seals for leaks while you have it out and replace if necessary - http://www.cajundude.com/outputshaftseal.htm

Add the pilot bearing to your list too if you haven't already... it's very cheap and you WILL destroy your old one taking it out. Also; if you're doing this yourself do not waste your time with the screw type bearing pullers; get a blind hole bearing puller that attaches to a slide hammer. It will save you HOURS.

Also, get a remote clutch bleeder line from tick. Also very cheap and it is IMPOSSIBLE to completely bleed your clutch without it unless you drop the rear end. Pi$$ poor design if you ask me; but that's how it goes.

If you're doing this job yourself make sure you have a good torque wrench (torque specs are available here if you don't have a service manual: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/usefulinfo.html) and a blind hole bearing puller that attaches to a slide hammer for the pilot bearing. Air tools will cut the time it takes to do this job in half...

What you COULD do: Limited only by your budget; with all the stuff you have to drop this is an ideal time for several things.

Also

with the poster that mentioned the huge increase in rotational mass that the LS7 setup will add... If you're at or near stock power levels the LS6 is a tried and true clutch and it's a lot lighter. Have you looked at the specs on the LS7 flywheel? It's HEAVY! I think the whole LS7 setup weighs 57 lbs.

 

I had no idea the LS7 clutch was so heavy, If the LS6 clutch is a better application for me then that is what I will do. Like I said, Nitrous and intake/exhaust/shifter, The LS6 should be fine. Thanks for all the great info, I'm sure you just shaved hours off the install.

 

...but.....if you are going to all that work...why wouldn't you upgrade the clutch?

 

NP. Just to be sure... You are planning on replacing your slave cylinder while you're down there right? No need to replace the master as you can do that from the top without dropping the drivetrain; but you should definitely do the slave. Most LS6 and LS7 clutch kits I have seen come with new slaves.

Also; check to be sure your clutch kit comes with an alignment tool. If it doesn't you'll need one. A metal one made from an old input shaft is best (check with member rkt56 for availability) but the plastic ones should suffice for a single disk...

I just did this job a few months ago... I read a lot before doing it and still had these saved; happy reading. You should also look into getting a service manual specific to your year vette before doing this; even if it's one of the $20 DVD versions of it on Ebay. There's also a free download for the service manual on the forum if you search for it. A service manual will pay for itself over and over again if you do your own work.

http://www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1560490984-post1.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ferential.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nder-line.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-bushing.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html

http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-22...googlebase_18u

I also have a list of all the tools I needed when I did this (I think I can find it ) PM me if you want it.

 

The Remote SPEEDbleeder Line is a must while the slave is out: http://www.tickperformance.com/produ...%252dBody.html

..and the Adjustable Master Cylinder is a darn good idea, as well: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-c5-corvette/

 

if you do end up going with the ls7, i would highly suggest the adjustable MC. i have seen so many posts where the clutch grabs way too low in the clutch pedal travel. the adjustable mc will allow you to adjust the position of the clutch pedal where the clutch grabs. although you need to be careful when adjusting, because you can over extend your pressure plate if you set the travel too high. then you will be doing the whole job over agian.

 

Good points, SaberD. Of course our kit comes with complete adjustment instructions, and if you follow them you'll have no problem whatsoever.