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Well, this is not as straight forward as the manual suggests. The compartment insulator pictured does not come out as pictured. It seems to be epoxied to the piece I'll call the hatch drain channel (it's what the hatch weatherstrip is mounted on). Here are some pics:
View of the RFA cover before starting:
Top view of the hatch water drain channel above the RFA:
Looking up underneath the compartment insulator. I've marked where the one edge is securely attached to the hatch drain channel above it. The edge closest to the body panel is not attached to anything.
From what I can see, there's no way to remove this short of removing the body panel. I must be missing something because that would be crazy, right?
LMAO!! You stated that you have a new /newer battery and all is well electrically.
If you carefully examine all the old DTC's, you will see that they all (most all) have something to do with a BATTERY VOLTAGE issue.
NOTE! I HATE to always BLAME C5 issues on the IGNITION SWITCH but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,, this is a CLASSIC example of what one will see when the switches output is not proper due to dirty / corroded / carbon contaminated contacts inside the switch.
If it were me, I would rebuild / repair or replace the ignition switch and get that issue off the table.
GET RID of all those old DTCs and see what comes back and report that info. Clear EVERYTHING and take the car for a drive and complete a couple start / drive and stop (ignition Off) cycles and see if the power related DTCS come back.
LMAO!! You stated that you have a new /newer battery and all is well electrically.
If you carefully examine all the old DTC's, you will see that they all (most all) have something to do with a BATTERY VOLTAGE issue.
NOTE! I HATE to always BLAME C5 issues on the IGNITION SWITCH but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,, this is a CLASSIC example of what one will see when the switches output is not proper due to dirty / corroded / carbon contaminated contacts inside the switch.
If it were me, I would rebuild / repair or replace the ignition switch and get that issue off the table.
GET RID of all those old DTCs and see what comes back and report that info. Clear EVERYTHING and take the car for a drive and complete a couple start / drive and stop (ignition Off) cycles and see if the power related DTCS come back.
Thanks for chiming in, Bill. Glad I could provide some amusement for you. Actually those codes were thrown when the old battery was at the end of its life. I just didn't think to clear codes at the time of replacement. Codes have been cleared now, and no new codes have come up in several on/off cycles.
I'm certainly willing to look at the ignition switch if it's really indicated, but if that were the problem, wouldn't you expect a lot more issues than just the Low Tire Pressure warning???
If you dont have the LOW VOLTAGE related DTCs,, then its most likely not switch related..
However, some modules are more sensitive to low voltage and even though all the other modules are happy,,, one could be having issues.
Try this:
Disconnect battery, remove BCM, remove the BCM Circuit Board from the box and inspect it for corrosion. If you have some, clean it with alcohol and a soft nylon brush. Becareful,,, Its ESD Sensitive.
uChips, Sorry I can't help you any more on removal. I suggest you Google search on RFA and RCDLR replacement and try and contact some of those who have replaced one before. I did a search and found a number of hits but they never discussed removing the panel. I would think the panel is not epoxied but uses some weather proof adhesive or sealant. You might also try to contact one of the Vette recyclers (some are Forum vendors) for help and also possibly get a good RFA at reduced cost. Please let us know how it goes so we can capture how it is done.
Haven't tried pulling off the RFA trim panel yet, though there was a description provided that verified it used double-sided tape and has to be pried off. Maybe I'll get brave and try it this week.
Had another thought yesterday (yeah, they seem to come about once a year). When the actual pressure value comes from the TPMS, it has to be compared to something to determine if it's out of range. Since the data coming from the TPMS is correct, could it be that the source of the problem is the compare data? For example, if the compare data is stored in the EPROM, could it be corrupted?
Thanks to everyone who helped out in this thread. It's been a long time getting this fixed, and yeah, I'm hopeless that way.
I replaced the RFA with a used one from VetteNuts, re-programmed the fobs and TPMS, and no more false warnings!
For the curious, the panel covering the RFA is secured by heavy duty double stick tape. I just carefully pried it off with the help of a flat blade screwdriver. Just be careful not to stress the panel plastic too much and be patient.
Once you have the panel off, reach under the lip of the hatch and find the large clip on the inboard side of the RFA and press in and pull down to remove. Here is an image of the RF out of the car showing the clips:
Thanks again to everyone! Special thanks to Marc at VetteNuts who went out of his way to make sure I got the right part for a very good price!
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Trouble accessing the RFA
,,,, this is a CLASSIC example of what one will see when the switches output is not proper due to dirty / corroded / carbon contaminated contacts inside the switch.
When the actual pressure value comes from the TPMS, it has to be compared to something to determine if it's out of range. Since the data coming from the TPMS is correct, could it be that the source of the problem is the compare data? For example, if the compare data is stored in the EPROM, could it be corrupted?
