03 & 04 Z06 electrical Issues.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 2
From: Qatif
03 & 04 Z06 electrical Issues.
I have an 04 and my brother have an 03 and both have some issues.
My 04 had an accident 6 months ago, the body shop had to separate the body from the drivetrain to get things fixed cause the damage was undercarriage. So they finished their work and put the car back together, but guess what? The car doesn't start the engine turns over but no fire and when i tried to pull the codes it's showing no comm for all the computers. So any idea what went wrong?
For the 03 it has the common driver side door loos of communication and we know the fix for this one , but the other issue is that the car goes through batteries every other week like we but new one in then we drive the car everything is fine then comes next weekend and bam the car is dead bone. Any idea about this issue or what to check for?
The car is weekend driver.
My 04 had an accident 6 months ago, the body shop had to separate the body from the drivetrain to get things fixed cause the damage was undercarriage. So they finished their work and put the car back together, but guess what? The car doesn't start the engine turns over but no fire and when i tried to pull the codes it's showing no comm for all the computers. So any idea what went wrong?
For the 03 it has the common driver side door loos of communication and we know the fix for this one , but the other issue is that the car goes through batteries every other week like we but new one in then we drive the car everything is fine then comes next weekend and bam the car is dead bone. Any idea about this issue or what to check for?
The car is weekend driver.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
It's obvious that something was either damaged in the accident or the repairs were not done properly. You may have a detached, damaged or missing ground wire somewhere or a wiring harness may have been detached or damaged. You may have damaged computer components. There are a multitude of things that may be wrong with it.
However, it is obvious that your body shop did a shoddy job. They are responsible to ensure that they repair and restore your car back to the same state it was before the accident. That is not the case. If you went through your insurance, I would call them and complain. If the present body shop can't fix the car, then the insurance company is responsible to find you another shop that can. These cars have a lot of electronic components and it is very hard to pinpoint the cause of an electrical problem especially when the trouble shooting is done by untrained or uninformed technicians.
However, it is obvious that your body shop did a shoddy job. They are responsible to ensure that they repair and restore your car back to the same state it was before the accident. That is not the case. If you went through your insurance, I would call them and complain. If the present body shop can't fix the car, then the insurance company is responsible to find you another shop that can. These cars have a lot of electronic components and it is very hard to pinpoint the cause of an electrical problem especially when the trouble shooting is done by untrained or uninformed technicians.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
Funny, a body shop rips the car apart and you want stangers to diagnose a no start problem sight unseen. If the body shop can't figure it out-they need to flatbed it to Chevy.
The car with the dying battery-any aftermarket electrics on/in it?
The car with the dying battery-any aftermarket electrics on/in it?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 2
From: Qatif
It's obvious that something was either damaged in the accident or the repairs were not done properly. You may have a detached, damaged or missing ground wire somewhere or a wiring harness may have been detached or damaged. You may have damaged computer components. There are a multitude of things that may be wrong with it.
However, it is obvious that your body shop did a shoddy job. They are responsible to ensure that they repair and restore your car back to the same state it was before the accident. That is not the case. If you went through your insurance, I would call them and complain. If the present body shop can't fix the car, then the insurance company is responsible to find you another shop that can. These cars have a lot of electronic components and it is very hard to pinpoint the cause of an electrical problem especially when the trouble shooting is done by untrained or uninformed technicians.
However, it is obvious that your body shop did a shoddy job. They are responsible to ensure that they repair and restore your car back to the same state it was before the accident. That is not the case. If you went through your insurance, I would call them and complain. If the present body shop can't fix the car, then the insurance company is responsible to find you another shop that can. These cars have a lot of electronic components and it is very hard to pinpoint the cause of an electrical problem especially when the trouble shooting is done by untrained or uninformed technicians.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 2
From: Qatif
No nothing, it's all stock.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Conduct a Battery Current Draw test on the 03 and see what SLEEEP Current draw is. It SHOULD be 20 milliamps. If yours is high, you will need to figure out what is not turning off or why the BCM isnt going into the SLEEP/SECURITY Mode.
As for your car,,,, READ and POST the DTC!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
BC
As for your car,,,, READ and POST the DTC!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
BC
