Complete rebuilt kit for Torque Tube
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
Complete rebuilt kit for Torque Tube
I am planning to do a complete rebuilt of the torque tube (there is quite some noise from the tt and i have moderate vibrations under acceleration - at cruise no vibrations...).
My 97 has almost 120.000 Miles, and i need to get the clutch out for balancing as well, so i thought its a good idea of replacing the three TT bearings and the two rubber couplers.
Are there complete rebuilt kits available? There are quite some parts to do the job (bearings, couplers, shims, washers, lockrings...) and i dont want to buy each part seperately.
Thanks!
Jochen
My 97 has almost 120.000 Miles, and i need to get the clutch out for balancing as well, so i thought its a good idea of replacing the three TT bearings and the two rubber couplers.
Are there complete rebuilt kits available? There are quite some parts to do the job (bearings, couplers, shims, washers, lockrings...) and i dont want to buy each part seperately.
Thanks!
Jochen
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,471
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
I am planning to do a complete rebuilt of the torque tube (there is quite some noise from the tt and i have moderate vibrations under acceleration - at cruise no vibrations...).
My 97 has almost 120.000 Miles, and i need to get the clutch out for balancing as well, so i thought its a good idea of replacing the three TT bearings and the two rubber couplers.
Are there complete rebuilt kits available? There are quite some parts to do the job (bearings, couplers, shims, washers, lockrings...) and i dont want to buy each part seperately.
Thanks!
Jochen
My 97 has almost 120.000 Miles, and i need to get the clutch out for balancing as well, so i thought its a good idea of replacing the three TT bearings and the two rubber couplers.
Are there complete rebuilt kits available? There are quite some parts to do the job (bearings, couplers, shims, washers, lockrings...) and i dont want to buy each part seperately.
Thanks!
Jochen
RPM Transmissions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
Thank you!
Looks like the kit from RPM does not include the snaprings, o-rings and washers... anyway, i guess i have to get those parts seperately.
One more question to the driveline pro´s: I am still not shure what´s the reason for those vibrations under acceleration. Is it more likely the probably worn out rubber busshings, or could it be one or more of the three driveline shaft bearings?
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
Looks like the kit from RPM does not include the snaprings, o-rings and washers... anyway, i guess i have to get those parts seperately.
One more question to the driveline pro´s: I am still not shure what´s the reason for those vibrations under acceleration. Is it more likely the probably worn out rubber busshings, or could it be one or more of the three driveline shaft bearings?
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 16
From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I am still not shure what´s the reason for those vibrations under acceleration. Is it more likely the probably worn out rubber busshings, or could it be one or more of the three driveline shaft bearings?
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
There are a number of things that can cause vibrations. Bad propshaft coupler can cause a vibration, but normally the vibration will be there with acceleration and coasting back down, not under acceleration only. Things that can cause vibration just while accelerating include engine cylinders with wide spread compression variance, bad or weak ignition coil, bad sparkplug or sparkplug wire, weak fuel injector and probably a few others.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
Thank you Eric!
Yes, that is the case. No vibrations when cruising or under very light load, but vibrating when under heavy load and backing down. Last week i felt that very strong at 4500RPM on the autobahn.
I replaced already spark plugs and spark plugs wires. No change so far. Cylinder compression range was within 1 bar - have to check again soon... Did not check on coils or injectors. However, the vibration feels like the often mentioned "driving over speed lines" that make the car shake.
Bad propshaft coupler can cause a vibration, but normally the vibration will be there with acceleration and coasting back down, not under acceleration only
I replaced already spark plugs and spark plugs wires. No change so far. Cylinder compression range was within 1 bar - have to check again soon... Did not check on coils or injectors. However, the vibration feels like the often mentioned "driving over speed lines" that make the car shake.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
One more thing: As far as i know, the drive shaft has changed in diameter from the 97-00 to 01-04 modells. My parts manual shows me three different part numbers for the shaft bearings (1997-1999 MY):
Front: 12456210
Rear No. 1: 12456217
Rear No. 2: 12456221
I searched the forum and found only two different bearing sizes:
Front: 6007 (from *** or SKF) or the 9107PP (from Timken)
Rear (2): 6008 (*** or SKF Bearings) or the 9108PP (Timken).
Some guys say that the bearings are the same for all C5 MY´s...
How can the bearings for a 97 can be the same like the bearing from an 04 if the shaft diameter has changed by about 10mm?
I was planning to purchase the whole TT rebuild kit before i take the TT out, but dont want to buy wrong bearings...
Anybody can jump in here and tell me if those are the correct bearings?
Thanks!
Jochen
Front: 12456210
Rear No. 1: 12456217
Rear No. 2: 12456221
I searched the forum and found only two different bearing sizes:
Front: 6007 (from *** or SKF) or the 9107PP (from Timken)
Rear (2): 6008 (*** or SKF Bearings) or the 9108PP (Timken).
Some guys say that the bearings are the same for all C5 MY´s...
How can the bearings for a 97 can be the same like the bearing from an 04 if the shaft diameter has changed by about 10mm?
I was planning to purchase the whole TT rebuild kit before i take the TT out, but dont want to buy wrong bearings...
Anybody can jump in here and tell me if those are the correct bearings?
Thanks!
Jochen
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,376
Likes: 4
From: Hershey, PA, USA
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
The bearings are the same, it's just the size of the bolts that changed in 01. 98-00 10mm, 01+ 12mm.
Those are the correct bearing #'s, that is what I ordered when I changed mine.
Those are the correct bearing #'s, that is what I ordered when I changed mine.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 16
From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
One more thing: As far as i know, the drive shaft has changed in diameter from the 97-00 to 01-04 modells. My parts manual shows me three different part numbers for the shaft bearings (1997-1999 MY):
Front: 12456210
Rear No. 1: 12456217
Rear No. 2: 12456221
I searched the forum and found only two different bearing sizes:
Front: 6007 (from *** or SKF) or the 9107PP (from Timken)
Rear (2): 6008 (*** or SKF Bearings) or the 9108PP (Timken).
Some guys say that the bearings are the same for all C5 MY´s...
How can the bearings for a 97 can be the same like the bearing from an 04 if the shaft diameter has changed by about 10mm?
I was planning to purchase the whole TT rebuild kit before i take the TT out, but dont want to buy wrong bearings...
Anybody can jump in here and tell me if those are the correct bearings?
Thanks!
Jochen
Front: 12456210
Rear No. 1: 12456217
Rear No. 2: 12456221
I searched the forum and found only two different bearing sizes:
Front: 6007 (from *** or SKF) or the 9107PP (from Timken)
Rear (2): 6008 (*** or SKF Bearings) or the 9108PP (Timken).
Some guys say that the bearings are the same for all C5 MY´s...
How can the bearings for a 97 can be the same like the bearing from an 04 if the shaft diameter has changed by about 10mm?
I was planning to purchase the whole TT rebuild kit before i take the TT out, but dont want to buy wrong bearings...
Anybody can jump in here and tell me if those are the correct bearings?
Thanks!
Jochen
All 1997-2011 front propshaft bearing = 12456210
1997 - 1999 rear propshaft front bearing = 12456217
1997 - 2011 rear propshaft rear bearing = 12456221
2000 - 2011 rear propshaft front bearing = 12456221
To be safe you might want to order one of the 12456217 just in case that is what you find out you have.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
Thanks Eric. Yes, those are the part no. i found for my 97.
As far as i know, the bearings cannot be ordered from GM, so i need to find out what kind of bearing is behind GM part number 12456217
1997-2011 front propshaft bearing = 12456210 (this is the SKF 6007)
1997-2011 rear propshaft rear bearing = 12456221 (this is the SKF 6008)
So i need to find out what kind of bearing the "1997 - 1999 rear propshaft front bearing = 12456217" is to order it from timken or another bearing company like SKF.
Jochen
As far as i know, the bearings cannot be ordered from GM, so i need to find out what kind of bearing is behind GM part number 12456217
1997-2011 front propshaft bearing = 12456210 (this is the SKF 6007)
1997-2011 rear propshaft rear bearing = 12456221 (this is the SKF 6008)
So i need to find out what kind of bearing the "1997 - 1999 rear propshaft front bearing = 12456217" is to order it from timken or another bearing company like SKF.
Jochen
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 308
Likes: 1
From: Claremore OK
I had the same problem. I rebuilt my torque tube when I was putting in my first clutch. Replaced the bearings ordered the couplers stock and sent them back. mine looked fine.(125k miles, what was I thinking) Well I dd 70 miles a day and road race on the weekend and one of the best days of my life I got an airfield just like ON TOP GEAR. Completely waisted a set of tires, drifts, 180's You name it and I did it that day . Everything was good but the tires. Then I put a new set of Pirellies rain and snow tires on and then it happened. It hooked and i had the same problem Vibration in the shifter under hard excelleration. I ordered the Poly's from the Guys at RPM and they are awesome couplers. I am going to install them this weekend. The pilot bearing was disinigrated and the clutch disk was cracked, TOB Broke. Don't want to scare you. But I drive like a maniac. Its probably just your couplers but good call on changing the bearings. You will need some long needle nose pliers to take the main snap ring in. RPM is awesome as far as I am concerned.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,760
Likes: 75
From: Haymarket VA
I had the same problem. I rebuilt my torque tube when I was putting in my first clutch. Replaced the bearings ordered the couplers stock and sent them back. mine looked fine.(125k miles, what was I thinking) Well I dd 70 miles a day and road race on the weekend and one of the best days of my life I got an airfield just like ON TOP GEAR. Completely waisted a set of tires, drifts, 180's You name it and I did it that day . Everything was good but the tires. Then I put a new set of Pirellies rain and snow tires on and then it happened. It hooked and i had the same problem Vibration in the shifter under hard excelleration. I ordered the Poly's from the Guys at RPM and they are awesome couplers. I am going to install them this weekend. The pilot bearing was disinigrated and the clutch disk was cracked, TOB Broke. Don't want to scare you. But I drive like a maniac. Its probably just your couplers but good call on changing the bearings. You will need some long needle nose pliers to take the main snap ring in. RPM is awesome as far as I am concerned.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 308
Likes: 1
From: Claremore OK
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 257
Likes: 12
From: las vegas nevada
Bearings V. Couplers on TT Rebuild
Thanks for all your help.
-d'Art
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
It seems like RPM Transmissions has disappeared. Also seems like the "kit" was much more expensive than buying from Timken, etc. I have the part numbers for what I believe to be the "bearings" front and rear front/rear rear. What other parts do I need and what are those part numbers?
Thanks for all your help.
-d'Art
Thanks for all your help.
-d'Art
I got my rebuild kit from RPM.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 115
Likes: 3
From: Pennsylvania
Thank you!
Looks like the kit from RPM does not include the snaprings, o-rings and washers... anyway, i guess i have to get those parts seperately.
One more question to the driveline pro´s: I am still not shure what´s the reason for those vibrations under acceleration. Is it more likely the probably worn out rubber busshings, or could it be one or more of the three driveline shaft bearings?
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
Looks like the kit from RPM does not include the snaprings, o-rings and washers... anyway, i guess i have to get those parts seperately.
One more question to the driveline pro´s: I am still not shure what´s the reason for those vibrations under acceleration. Is it more likely the probably worn out rubber busshings, or could it be one or more of the three driveline shaft bearings?
Replacing the rubber bushings looks simple, just plug and play. Looks more difficult to replace the bearings....
Any help is appreciated!
Jochen
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 478
Likes: 58
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/epc/ch...y/05/1y05-066/
Coupling - Qty: 2
Part Number: 19299915 or 88894026
SKF Bearing - Qty 1
Part Number: 6007-2RSJEM
SKF Bearing - Qty 2
Part Number: 6008-2RSJEM
Bolt - Qty 12
Part Number: 88894027
Seal - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456203
Seal - Qty 2
Part Number: 12456220
Ring - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456209
Ring - Qty 2
Part Number: 12456222
Slinger - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456208
Coupling - Qty: 2
Part Number: 19299915 or 88894026
SKF Bearing - Qty 1
Part Number: 6007-2RSJEM
SKF Bearing - Qty 2
Part Number: 6008-2RSJEM
Bolt - Qty 12
Part Number: 88894027
Seal - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456203
Seal - Qty 2
Part Number: 12456220
Ring - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456209
Ring - Qty 2
Part Number: 12456222
Slinger - Qty 1
Part Number: 12456208
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
Really generally speaking year specific ...a 2000 torque tube PUK set rebuild kit is 659.00 I was going to do mine but after seeing that I rather buy a new high strength one from lethal performance for under a grand that’s my option ...
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 17, 2020 at 02:16 PM.
