Wife was driving home tonight and the dash lights all lit up like it does when you first turn the key on. The motor didn't stutter or anything like that, just the dash lights all flashed on. She said she she was taking her foot from the accelerator to apply the brakes. She can't remember if the lights came on right when she took her foot off the accelerator or when she first hit the brakes, or somewhere in between.

Any ideas on where to start to try and figure this out are greatly appreciated.

 

First I've heard of something like this. Sounds sort of like the light sensor suddenly thought it was daytime. My first thought is the multifunction switch had a sudden issue. Before going there though, pull your codes just in case.

 

You mean with a scan tool? Or is there an "on board" way to get codes?
(sorry, we have only had the car a short while and I haven't even had time to read the owners manual.....only have driven it twice.) The way she described it is all the dash lights came on, not just the normal lights got brighter

 

No you DIC (Driver Information Center) little screen below gauge cluster that may be showing your odometer.

This is what I follow:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html

Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\

Here are some more very good sites:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


Also check the "stickeys" at the top of the forum pages for great info and use the search feature too....

 

It can be the day/nite lights sensor just got a bad signal---Dis she have something up on the dash ? may have covered up the sensor-
Also--Did she just go over some railroad tracks or hit a big bump in the road ? This would trigger the ABS/traction control warning--the sensors temporarily lose contact in the pigatails at the wheels--Would light up the dash like a x-mas tree--- If t comes back alot-- you'l need to unplug and clean all the pitails--if it doesn't do it agin--just have her slow down on bumpy roads--LOL---

 

There are two very common issues that cause this. They are:

The BCM gets wet cause the HVAC condensate drain cloggs and cant drain water. The condensate floods back into the passengers foot well and wetts the BCM..... The BCM DOES NOT LIKE WATER!

There are TWO wiring harnesses in each of the door accordian tubes between the door and door and door frame. The power plug in that harness for the door power plug has damaged or spread female pins. That causes corruption of the serial data buss and IPC errors.

Ide bet she had the AC on and the BCM got damp.

Bill

 

Hey thanks for the suggestions. She drove it today and it didn't re-occur. As soon as I can get a day off I'll run thru all these suggestions and see what I come up with. Thanks for the great replies!.

 

This^

Mine used to act up occasionally. The dash goes NUTS and it would put me in "reduced power mode" etc. Give a little wiggle to the accordion tubes in the door jams. Also, mine would sometimes disconnect the door altogether. Next time, try the windows for a quick test to see if one of the connectors is bad.

Jack

 

Thank you for the reply. I would a lot rather give something a little "wiggle" than call for a wrecker.......even the wife could do that!!