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Ok on my 2001 c5 a4 it had a small type cone k&n filter my buddy i race with had a larger type K&N cone he gave to me, after installing it i noticed right away better throttle response but now when just cruising at like 40-50 mph seems it has a slight buck or miss to it as long as u are givin it gas its fine but at steady speeds it starts, put old filter back on an it went away! so what in the heck is that about its just a cone filter, looked bad a$$ ...wish it would have not done that any suggestions or any 1 ever heard of that?? an yes i have screen in mass air
i got a buddy who runs with no filter and i think he runs 10s its a gto but thats almost like a c5 neway thats a good idea ne 1 no ne 1 else who goes with no filter lol
An discofreak, my car is doing awesome, runs 11.4s an i just was curious as to why the bigger filter made it jerk a little !!!!!!!!! like i said try an get advice an get bunch a smart asses
Whenever you make changes to the incoming air stream--The ECM has to re-learn the fuel trims to accomodate the more incoming air signal---
This is done via your fuel trims----It takes apprx 50 miles of normal driving to let the trims "learn out " A CAI or just a better filter (cone) can make your fuel as much as 15% off (lean) and the ECM is tring to fix it by adding that % to your PT fuel--but it takes awhile
Put it back on and give it some time to learn out--Thus is a common thing and happens on EVERY car---
An extremly modded intake air tract like a bigger intake manifold-different Throttle body-aftermarket air bridge will take longer to learn out---however the ECM can only learn out the trims IF they are below about +22 or -22%--Then a tune will be needed to correct--If that is needed you'll get lean or rich codes to advise you--
shoulda known try an get help on here an get a bunch of idiots...o well off to ls1tech i go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah , we are all a bunch of Idiots over here... did you ever notice just how dirty your engine bay gets???? At 700 cfm ( cubic feet a minute ), your unprotected throttle body will ingest about 30 lbs of dirt and sand a year.. that does wonders for your engine.. Go back to the other forum... they are all geniuses over there. We put a filter on every engine ever built from GM.. if it was a good thing not to use a filter, don't you think we would have done that??? Idiot indeed !...
Its a shame our beautifully designed C5 has fallen into such inept hands.
Bill aka Et
I know what you mean-lots of smart a$$ on here----Anyway i had the same problem you have--this is what I did--I installed a set of front fender curb finders and a 25 ft. whip antenna--NO more surge-
HA thanks tblu92 u seem to be the only one with a brain on this topic, greatly appreciate it.....i not trying the filter for performance it was free an looked better so thought i would give it a shot, i run low 11s with nitrous not that big a deal was just curious bout why the larger filter caused a slight miss thanks again will try it .....
You're an engineer? Cool. I have questions, based on your advice posted. Do you remove the air filter from the cars you drive? If so, have you experienced any downside? Have you every dyno'd your engine, running with and without an air filter, to see what gains are realized?
You mentioned turbulence. The distance from the air filter to the throttle body, is really not that long. That being said, is it possible to achieve laminar flow in such a short distance?
You're an engineer? Cool. I have questions, based on your advice posted. Do you remove the air filter from the cars you drive? If so, have you experienced any downside? Have you every dyno'd your engine, running with and without an air filter, to see what gains are realized?
You mentioned turbulence. The distance from the air filter to the throttle body, is really not that long. That being said, is it possible to achieve laminar flow in such a short distance?
I think you misunderstood - he's a railroad engineer.
One more thing----I see some one mentioned turbulence---
On a bolt on modded car like yours--
Turbulence affects the way the air enters your MAF-- and how the MAF takes readings --
More or less is not that important as "the same as stock" is.
So it's important to try and keep the MAF in the SAME place as it was when stock--If it came with the honeycomb screen--LEAVE IT IN--
Common thing is to over oil K&N type filters--That will foul your MAF and require cleaning--Detected by--- surging bucking--dying-
On highly modded engines-- ( heads/cam/headers/turbo/SC--)Turbulence can become an issue--On those applications it is wise to decrease it as much as you can---But correcting the AFR via a tune is absolutely required