Guys,

Please direct me on WHERE to get one. I guess it's common but mine finally decided to croak; and my luck it was the first time driving it in over a month!

I'm not having much luck finding one online, ebay, or here.

THANKS

 

Update on my posting. See post #8.

 

Nope, but they frequently break on C5/C6 vettes and 98-02 camaros. Mine has gotten the typical break on the center connection between the two coils.

And I am talking about the return spring. It's function is to return the pedal and slave all the way back to relieve hydraulic pressure to prevent premature clutch failure. maybe we're thinking of two different items?

I'm sure someone else has had this happen....

 

Boom.

Clutch Pedal Return Spring: $8.85
Having your best friend 1800 miles away that will go to his shop at 8pm and order your GM parts because you're **** and cannot wait until Monday: Priceless!

Woo!

Mods, close up shop.

 

Too bad you were in a hurry, as I have one laying on the shelf, like many of us who pulled that sucker a long time ago.

 

Damn!

Well, the car's for sale and I wanted it to be perfect, so I guess a 20 spot won't hurt!

 

Total waste of time. As said before, it is NOT a return assist spring, just the opposite. Unless you are handicapped, or have a very weak leg, you won't even feel it's absence.

 

Ok, I went back to the manual and other sources about the spring. It’s been a while and I had some of the nomenclature, and functionality wrong. This is in regards to the spring on the clutch pedal pivot point.

First off, with the stock master cylinder the “over-center spring” is needed. It has a few functions that you don’t want to be without. At the very top of the pedal stroke the spring does in fact work as a return. This is its most important function. There is a “compensation port” that is opened at the last 30 thousands of an inch of travel when the pedal is fully up. This allows entrapped air to escape into the reservoir, fluid to return to the reservoir and fluid to be replenished to the system. Kind of important stuff!

The secondary function, once the over-center point is reached the spring in fact does assist in down force reducing driver effort.

 

Interesting, if true. I broke my assist spring after about 5 yrs of ownership, and I was totally oblivious of any difference. OTOH, shortly after that, I did engine mod, and my stock clutch pedal decided it liked the floor better than actually de-coupling. After endless fluid flushes, AKA the "Ranger" method, I eventually installed a better clutch, and a Tick master. I wonder if the aftermarket engineered this fantastic, "last 30 thousands of an inch travel" magic? Gee, I hope so, 'cause I still don't have the stupid spring.

 

Eric gave a very nice detailed explanation of the operation. I'd say that if you went with an aftermarket clutch but kept your master then I'd play it on the 8 dollar safe side.

Every car has it's "why-did-they-do-this-isms" but I'll trust the engineers; and not just because I "is" one.

It's funny how many "you-don't-need-that-s" lead to premature failure.

 

Anyone have a part number?

Any chance I broke this? Last night, was shifting spiritedly at the top of 1st, shoe slipped off the clutch, pedal went right to the floor and I had very little travel left in which to activate the clutch.

Managed to get my shoe under the clutch pedal, tugged on it and clutch came back working normally.

I just got the car, checked the clutch reservoir (should have checked prior to purchase I know) and the fluid is nasty so I will be applying the ranger method tomorrow.

Just wondering if I should replace this spring as well. I am afraid to give the car the boots now as being away from home with an inoperable clutch was a scary experience.

Thanks.

 

As stated above, I also am running a Tick MC, and in addition, a Centerforce TO bearing on the stock slave.

 

Sounds normal to me, with a stock clutch and dirty fluid. Here's what I think happens. The clutch slips, gets hot and overheats the hydraulics, causing the pedal to go limp. After 10-20sec it cools and the pedal comes back to operating range. Replace the fluid helps a little, but replace the stock clutch and it's gone forever.

 

swapped out the fluid today and all seems fine. Drove the car spiritedly for a bit and no issue. Clutch feels much more smooth as well.

Regardless, a clutch/flywheel change is on the top of the list for next spring. Car has 65K miles on it but doesn't appear to have been abused (has had the same rear tires with decent life remaining above wear bars) for past 35K miles, but a new clutch/flywheel will put my mind at ease so I can start doing trackdays.

 

nice!

 

Just replaced my spring today, $15.62 out the door at the dealer. Easy install, place the 2 spring ears in the appropriate slots and depress clutch pedal to the floor. Flip the center flat portion of the spring into the slot behind the clutch pedal. That's all there is to it.

Most technician experts say it is best to keep the spring. It has functionality as stated above.

 

Spring Part Numbers

Model Year Part #
1997 - 2003 12555205
2004 - 2004 10376347

 

#PIP3821B: Removal Of The Clutch Over Center Spring - keywords cylinder hydraulic master pedal - (Apr 15, 2008)
Subject: Removal of the Clutch Over Center Spring

Models: 1997-2004 Chevrolet C5 Corvette
2005-2008 Chevrolet C6 Corvette
Equipped with a Manual Transmission

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to update model years and tac notes. Please discard PIP3821A.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:

It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.

This is not a recommended practice and customers should be advised of the implications of such an action.

Recommendation/Instructions:

The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke. The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears.

One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port. The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel.

Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang in an at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result. The C5 clutch hydraulic systems were built by AP. The C6 systems were manufactured by FTE. Also, the pedal must be in the full up position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed properly.

Anytime a dealer gets a hydraulic system complaint, the tech should inspect to insure that the spring is in place and properly connected. Related customer complaints might include poor shift performance, improper clutch release or transmission synchronizer damage.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

My spring broke and i have tried without success to install it. I cannot get the spring wrapped around the back of the pedal....any help would be appreciated. For a 30 second job, its taken me a long time with still no success.

 

Mine is a c6 but still same concept.