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Any ideas?? I have an 02 C5, never had any problems with the cooling system until yesterday when it suddenly overheated.
No leaks, coolant level normal. I made the assumption that it must be a failed thermostat so I replaced it, same problem. Interesting the coolant temp rapidly jumps up to 230 (and continues to climb). Besides the thermo, what could cause this - are there any other doo-dads that would shut off the water flow? Is it even possible for a water pump to just quit pumping water?? Fans seem to work fine.
Any help appreciated!!
Been trying the bleeding procedure..., no luck yet!
Last edited by dgreen; Aug 28, 2011 at 04:07 PM.
Reason: more info
I know it sounds like work but I think that the rad in a C5 needs to be removed and cleaned outside and run a water hose thru the inside. I think this should be required task every couple of years. Also the A/C condenser needs to be cleaned. Removing the rad also let's you inspect your hoses.
BUT... a radiator is not suddenly going to 'get dirty' and cause serious overheating, something went wrong here and all at once. The car has 80k on it and I've never seen the temp gauge vary by more that maybe 5 degrees once it's warmed up, even on a recent round trip between St Louis and Austin in 105 degree weather.
Nothing in the intake area, clean as a whistle. I did both of the bleeding procedures that I found in threads here with no positive results. I don't think the fans are working properly; One of course you can't see but the passenger side fan does come on if I turn on the AC. I checked the fuses, they're all good. Is there a way to test the relays??
Right now, I'm feeling a bit annoyed . All I can figure out so far is that the longer it runs, the hotter it gets. Really acts like a car with a inoperative water pump but I've never seen this with no noise and no squeeking - is it possible that the impeller just spun loose from the shaft??
Not just running hot, it flat out overheats. Drove 2 miles from the house, ac shut down, coolant temp warning message (> 265), then the 'reduced engine power' message came up. I let the car cool off for about a half hour then drove back home... Really acts like a car with no fluid in the radiator or a bad water pump.
Which bleeding procedure? The one where you take the coolant hose from the head or the one from the manual? Usually you have a leak from the water pump area when they go out. The head procedure is by far the best method.