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01 Z06 no start/electrical issues??

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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #21  
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I agree with you totally for the OP to verify the key is being read at the input to the BCM. I was seeing his original listing of the codes in post #4 where he's showing the 1631 C codes on both BCM's which is what caught my attention as well. I'm out too. Not a competition here, just trying to help and you've got a whole lot more knowledge than I by a long shot!
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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If anyone has the wiring schematic for the bcm handy could you email it to me so I can check the key resistance going into the bcm. Not sure what wires I need to be probing. Email address is: lpdesroche@yahoo.com

Thanks!
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Ok small update on the electrical issue. I took the BCM out and opened it up to check to see if there was any corrosion. I didn't see anything but I sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner anyway. Also sprayed the plugs. Put it all back in and tried to start the car. Well it started, but the security light stayed on. I pulled the codes while running and it showed 2723 HC Pass key resistance. I shut the car off and tried to clear the code but it would not clear. I then started the car again. Same thing security light still on. Same situation code wouldn't clear. I repeated this one more time, then on the fourth time the car wouldn't start just like before and I had only the one 2723HC code showing. I haven't read the resistance coming from the ignition switch yet, but it seems pretty conclusive that this is the issue. Unless I am missing something. Any other suggestions? Work has been out of control lately so my troubleshooting time is lacking.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LPDesRoche
Any other suggestions?
Yep.....finish the troubleshooting.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yep.....finish the troubleshooting.
Ok had some time this morning to take a look at the car again. I probed A3 and B2 on the BCM connector to check for resistance and I get 9.53 which is the same exact reading I get off the pellet on both of my keys. I even jiggled the key around in the ignition just to see if the signal was intermittent but it was good to go through all positions. So obviously the vats pickup in the ignition switch is working. So now I have no clue why its throwing the 2723 code. Do you think its possible that after getting wet the first time that I need to perform the key relearn procedure? I honestly have no clue what to try next. And to make it worse my battery is dead. I stuck my battery tender on the car the other night but I think it crapped out on me. When I got up to go to work the other morning I went out in the garage and the battery tender was hot and still on the solid red light. And today when I get in the car the battery is 100% dead. Nothing like a battery charger that kills the battery...WTF?

Any suggestions for a next step (besides charging the battery)

Leeland
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LPDesRoche
Ok had some time this morning to take a look at the car again. I probed A3 and B2 on the BCM connector to check for resistance and I get 9.53 which is the same exact reading I get off the pellet on both of my keys. I even jiggled the key around in the ignition just to see if the signal was intermittent but it was good to go through all positions. So obviously the vats pickup in the ignition switch is working. So now I have no clue why its throwing the 2723 code. Do you think its possible that after getting wet the first time that I need to perform the key relearn procedure? I honestly have no clue what to try next. And to make it worse my battery is dead. I stuck my battery tender on the car the other night but I think it crapped out on me. When I got up to go to work the other morning I went out in the garage and the battery tender was hot and still on the solid red light. And today when I get in the car the battery is 100% dead. Nothing like a battery charger that kills the battery...WTF?

Any suggestions for a next step (besides charging the battery)

Leeland
this is outta my leauge for sure but im always for learning new things. Quick question. Were you having battery problems BEFORE any of this started??
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ZZ06
this is outta my leauge for sure but im always for learning new things. Quick question. Were you having battery problems BEFORE any of this started??
No. Everything was fine until the a/c drain issue.

Leeland
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #28  
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Ok update on issues. Last week I had time to get the battery checked as it's under warranty. Turns out it was OK so I had them charge it and them I took it home and did the BCM security relearn procedure. 30 or so minutes later...low and behold the car starts and the security light is out. I take it for a spin and numerous starts and all appears to be fine. Check the codes all clear except for the usual U1000 and U1064 both History codes that the car has had for ever at this point. I assume that I fixed it. Well I go out in the garage yesterday to start it just to see if it was infact fixed. The battery was 100% dead. Here we go again I thought. So I charge the battery overnight and hook it back up today. Car starts and runs no problem. No codes except the 2 mentioned above all seems well. I Shut the car off and sit in it for a few mins looking to see if something it noticably draining the battery and after a few minutes I realize the lights that illuminate the blue/red colors on the HVAC control are on. It was hard to see them in daylight but they are definitely on all the time and never go out. What would make them stay on? I can only assume the BCM did in fact sustain some sort of water damage and this is causing the issue??? I know for a fact this was not an issue prior to the water getting on the BCM. Never had battery problems before of any type. Car could sit weeks without starting prior to the HVAC drain clog.

So any ideas on why the HVAC lights are staying lit?

Leeland
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