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Car wont start after audio install.

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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Default Car wont start after audio install.

It was working to pull it out of the garage then after hooking up the sub to the amp nothing. Car ran great yesterday after hooking everything up except the sub to the amp. The battery is good just bought a new one and put it in it didnt help. its a 1998 C5 codes are U1160c U1176c bcm no comm climate control no comm. turn key nothing says service soon reduced engine power low fuel.
Any ideas?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
It was working to pull it out of the garage then after hooking up the sub to the amp nothing. Car ran great yesterday after hooking everything up except the sub to the amp. The battery is good just bought a new one and put it in it didnt help. its a 1998 C5 codes are U1160c U1176c bcm no comm climate control no comm. turn key nothing says service soon reduced engine power low fuel.
Any ideas?
What did you use for a 12 volt source for the sub/amp?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
What did you use for a 12 volt source for the sub/amp?
I used the positive battery terminal for the amp and the 3 wires in the footwell for the radio. all the new wireing is now disconected and still no start.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Did you check the BCM fuses?

Do you get the security light when you try to start the car?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Lothar34
Did you check the BCM fuses?

Do you get the security light when you try to start the car?
I checked fuse 23,25,15,9 all ok. Not getting a pull key message or security message.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
I checked fuse 23,25,15,9 all ok. Not getting a pull key message or security message.
Either way, with the BCM no comm, it will never start.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Either way, with the BCM no comm, it will never start.
There are 2 white connectors to the left of the BCM with a copper hook near the top of each. should they be connected to something each one has a star* drawn on it.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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Check for 12 volts at the following with the key on:

1) The yellow wire in the passenger footwell, that you used (now disconnected, for the stereo.

2) Minifuse #9
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
There are 2 white connectors to the left of the BCM with a copper hook near the top of each. should they be connected to something each one has a star* drawn on it.
There are two shorting plugs (star connectors) down there, but you did not touch those....did you?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
There are two shorting plugs (star connectors) down there, but you did not touch those....did you?
I didnt tap into them but they were moved.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
I didnt tap into them but they were moved.
see post #8
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
see post #8
checking now
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
checking now
yellow wire reads 12.2 volts with ignition on. Fuse 9 tested as a good fuse and tested at fuse for 12.2 volts ok

Last edited by Notninja; Aug 29, 2011 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
yellow wire reads 12.2 volts with ignition on. Fuse 9 tested as a good fuse and tested at fuse for 12.2 volts ok
The BCM fuse #9, and Accessory fuse #11, receive 12 volts directly from the ignition switch. I was concerned the ignition switch contact was short/burned. Doesn't seem to be the case.

Check for 12 volts at he following fuses for the BCM:

Minifuse(s) #25, 23 both hot at all times

Minfuse #13 - hot with key to on.

Minifuse #14 - hot with key to start (must be in park for an auto, or clutch depressed for manual.


If those check good, I would make sure you did not damage the wiring to the star connectors.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
The BCM fuse #9, and Accessory fuse #11, receive 12 volts directly from the ignition switch. I was concerned the ignition switch contact was short/burned. Doesn't seem to be the case.

Check for 12 volts at he following fuses for the BCM:

Minifuse(s) #25, 23 both hot at all times

Minfuse #13 - hot with key to on.

Minifuse #14 - hot with key to start (must be in park for an auto, or clutch depressed for manual.


If those check good, I would make sure you did not damage the wiring to the star connectors.
all mini fuses above check out to 12.2 volts.
Wiring to these 2 connectors looks good. is there a test for it?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
all mini fuses above check out to 12.2 volts.
Wiring to these 2 connectors looks good. is there a test for it?
Not really, except for isolating the different systems on the class 2 serial buss. Typically when class 2 has a fault(short) it will take down all communication. In this cases, if the only codes you have are for the BCM and HVAC, then it suggests the problem is isolated to those systems, which is why I had you do the voltage checks. There are a few things to check. Since the console wiring was disturbed, you can try unplugging the HVAC control head. Then check codes, and see if communication is restored to the BCM. Not trying a wild goose chase here, just trying to eliminate common denominators, based on what was touched.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569872687-post22.html
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 05:30 PM
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thanks lucky ill look at the white wire on star 1 I guess.
I get the same codes with or without HVAC plugged in.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Notninja
thanks lucky ill look at the white wire on star 1 I guess.
I get the same codes with or without HVAC plugged in.
The HVAC and BCM also have a common ground point, at G202. The BCM also has another ground, at G104(inboard of the battery on the frame rail).
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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I checked the grounds and both are good.
Does anyone know how to check the star (class 2 data cable). How do I open it?
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