Column lock


I have had the dreaded "service column lock" message for the last 3 times I started my car and drove it.
Today, I go in it, and decided to "pay attention" to whatever I could ascertain by starting it up, trying the lock with the key off, etc.
I tried the wheel with the key on the passenger seat, and the steering lock still rotated, then I put the key in the lock, and for the first time, looked around the dash, and discovered that the battery volts came up real slow.
I HAVE A BAD BATTERY!
I shut it off, and tried it again with the DIC selected to volts, and the volts when I let go of the key after a successful start was around 7 volts, and it climbed slowly to 13.6.
I am going to go get a battery and see what happens.
I just figured I have a column lock problem.
So just a note to everybody, pay attention to your car, it's trying to tell you things.
Initially I thought that it was the recall mod and that it had failed. But after doing some homework, I found out that the Optima Red Top batteries only have a residual charge of around 90volts. The C5 has a unique requirement, where it stores all the BCM sensory information in the ECM memory after you pull the key out. If the voltage of the battery drops below 110volt residual charge ((RC) on the battery nomenclature tag), it dumps all the memory and sensor data. Although it doesn't do this all the time, nor does it do this to the tune, it will continue to do so, unless you replace the battery with one that has a RC higher than 110volts.
I purchased a DIE HARD P4 34/78DT that has a RC of 135. You can expect to pay 216.99 online, or 254.16 with tax at the store.
NO SOONER HAD I INSTALLED IT.. THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY PERMANENTLY.
I recommend buying from SEARS, considering that they have a 4 yr warranty/replacement plan.
(That's where I got mine.)


THe red tops have been in in the car for the last 6 years. This is the first time this has happened.


you have to love the fact that there's nothing in your battery box except the battery and dust. There's no acid residue. your car is clean and no corrosion. Is there another sealed battery that gives you that piece of mind for the price?
Another one that's as reliable?
I haven't done any battery research lately. My C4 had a battery that was venting a lot, and I have had to do the baking soda and flush a few times. I ended up putting that battery in my engine run stand and buying a fresh battery for it.
I regret not doing it sooner.
My C5 looks brand new in that area.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Sep 4, 2011 at 06:09 PM.


AND as a wonder of wonders, my steering wheel locks again!!
I still have the cruise control kicking off though. occasionally, the active handling will show up as inop. I was hopeful that the battery hiccup would cure them as well. But no.......
A group 75/35 optima is $159 at O'reilly's. Costco no longer carries them.....Good news, I got a full refund from costco as it was only 2 years old and they no longer carry them.
I gotta go get a junk battery and return it to O'reilly's because I walked in without a trade in......$12 bucks!
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Sep 4, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
AND as a wonder of wonders, my steering wheel locks again!!
I still have the cruise control kicking off though. occasionally, the active handling will show up as inop. I was hopeful that the battery hiccup would cure them as well. But no.......
A group 75/35 optima is $159 at O'reilly's. Costco no longer carries them.....Good news, I got a full refund from costco as it was only 2 years old and they no longer carry them.
I gotta go get a junk battery and return it to O'reilly's because I walked in without a trade in......$12 bucks!
http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...s/specs/78.pdf
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