Auto Transmission fluid Change
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Woburn MA
Auto Transmission fluid Change
2000 Coupe with 96k miles.
I've got nearly 50k miles on my ATF and think its time for a refesh...
Should I just do the filter and pan drop or is a total flush and filter the way to go?
What's the goingr ate for a ATF change, the dealer was talking nearly $200.
I've got nearly 50k miles on my ATF and think its time for a refesh...
Should I just do the filter and pan drop or is a total flush and filter the way to go?
What's the goingr ate for a ATF change, the dealer was talking nearly $200.
Team Owner
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From: cookeville tennessee
If you only want to half way do it if the transmission fluid is still a red color just do that but if not chg all of it.....ok lucky131969 does this sound better just cutting down on some words. Robert
Last edited by robert miller; Sep 5, 2011 at 06:40 PM.
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From: Dyer, IN
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Long Island NY
If your tranny is working well then you should just do a normal fluid and filter change. Before I did mine at 70K I did a nice amount of research and concluded that a power flush, which forces all the fluid out may cause problems to a well working tranny. I had mine done at the dealer and the quote you got at about $200.00 sounds about right. I could have gotten it done for less at a local shop but I know that the dealer I bring it to uses all AC Delco parts, correct fluid and I know the job gets done right. Your tranny is one part you don't want to go lowest bid on as the repairs for a job gone wrong will cost you big $$.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Prescott, Arizona
Dixiecrat, I think you are way overdue for a coolant change.
Tiny amounts of CO2 get past the headgaskets into the coolant with time, forming carbonic acid with the water component of the coolant. Once the anticorrosion additive in the original coolant is gone, the acidic coolant starts eating engine parts like the metal component of headgaskets.
In your shoes, I would change it twice over a short time. Unless you remove the waterpump, quite a bit of coolant is left in the engine when draining the radiator.
Another option is to get a coolant test kit and use it to check coolant condition.
Petroleum transmission fluids have seal swelling additives to keep seals from shrinkling. Not sure how fast they are used up, but in your shoes I would change it. Unless you flush the trans or put a higher capacity transmission pan on, about 50% of the fluid is left in the torque converter and other works on a normal fluid and filter change.
Tiny amounts of CO2 get past the headgaskets into the coolant with time, forming carbonic acid with the water component of the coolant. Once the anticorrosion additive in the original coolant is gone, the acidic coolant starts eating engine parts like the metal component of headgaskets.
In your shoes, I would change it twice over a short time. Unless you remove the waterpump, quite a bit of coolant is left in the engine when draining the radiator.
Another option is to get a coolant test kit and use it to check coolant condition.
Petroleum transmission fluids have seal swelling additives to keep seals from shrinkling. Not sure how fast they are used up, but in your shoes I would change it. Unless you flush the trans or put a higher capacity transmission pan on, about 50% of the fluid is left in the torque converter and other works on a normal fluid and filter change.
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From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
Yes. If you have not changed the brake fluid do that and you may want to change the power steering fluid. My power steering hadn't felt right recently so at the recommendation of a friend who is a mechanic I had ti changed. The steering feels better now.
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I thought this was Boston Vette's thread.
Getting back to the original thread topic, I agree with Vettmann17. Avoid the power flush! Just do a normal fluid and filter change.
Getting back to the original thread topic, I agree with Vettmann17. Avoid the power flush! Just do a normal fluid and filter change.
Tech Contributor
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From: Dyer, IN
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Woburn MA
Thanks guys,
Why is the powerflush dangerous?
I could live with just the filter & pan drop, I just hate to leave all old fluid in the converter.
Quicksilver, Thanks for keeping the thread on track
Why is the powerflush dangerous?
I could live with just the filter & pan drop, I just hate to leave all old fluid in the converter.
Quicksilver, Thanks for keeping the thread on track
Tech Contributor
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
A safer approach is repeating the standard filter/fluid replacement in another 10-15k miles.
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From: Dyer, IN
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Fredericksburg Virginia
The best way to change the fluid IMHO is to drop pan, replace filter, disconnect trans cooler line at radiator, replace pan gasket reinstall pan, fill with fluid, connect a hose to disconnect trans cooler line and put into a large container. Start car and pump fluid into the pan as fast as possible. Watch what is coming out of cooler line and when it looks clean, do another quart or so. Shut it down and reconnect cooler line. Top off fluid in pan and call it a day. Yes, the trick is to be able to pump it into the pan as fast as it is coming out of the cooler line. I could not so I would just run it for 30 seconds or so and shut it down until I could get the pan filled again. It is not that hard and will replace 90 + % of the fluid. I did this when I changed my 99 A4 out last year with 44K on it. I noticed a difference on the behavior of shifting on the first drive afterwards. Also a good time to add additional cooler and a remote trans filter if you want to extend the life of trans and fluid.
Chris
Chris
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From: Coast of San Mateo CA
changing auto trans fluid
Changing the filter and as much of the fluid is the way to go!
Some transmission shops change fluid by disconnecting the
in and the out line at the cooler, new fluid to the in, old fluid
to a reservoir or catch-can. The fluid is not pressurized just
drawn in while engine is idling in neutral and pushed out the
other side. This should only be done After! pulling the pan
and replacing the filter.Most of the initial wear takes place in
the first 15-30k miles. Depending on how hard one drives there
auto trans I recommend doing this in the first 3-5 years or 30-50k
miles and putting in a quality synthetic fluid like Amsoil, then your
good to go for up to 100kmiles street driving.