The only purpose to this thread is to warn those that when doing the clutch install, honest to god, the hardest part is the slave cylinder line connection. Trying to get that out when you have a header dangling in your face is not fun at all. It takes a ton of pressure on that little white clip to push the prongs loose. You would think they would just make it like a fuel line, so you can easily use a disconnect line.

I used the C5 clutch install guide and he recommended a fuel line/ac disconnect tool in 5/8" but that didn't work. We ended up having to jack the motor up on one side to give the header some wiggle room (kooks 1 7/8" do not come out with the steering shaft still in). Then we both had to push on the clip as hard as we can with two screwdrivers while I held the brass fitting with vise grips and it finally came loose. This added 2.5 hours to the install...

Dropping the suspension and pulling the tranny/torque tube is the easy part. If this is your first time and you have headers, I would budget two days for sure! My car still only has the clutch in and no tranny/TT after a 6 hour day. Torquing the clutch took a good hour too because we left the bell housing on. On my GTO, the slave cylinder line was just a simple c-clip holding it on...takes 10 seconds to get it off. I guess they fixed their design in later years.

 

That is why i just pushed out the roll pin holding the line to the master cylinder.
then separated off the car.

 

I wish you were at my house 3 hours ago!

I could have had it all buttoned back up before the rain. Oh well, you live and you learn.

 

.....and somehow this is accomplished dozens of time per day, across the country, at a variety of shops........without issue.

 

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7910-Hydra...5328834&sr=8-1

 

Thanks for the link...will definitely be buying that if I have to do this again.

 

I just disconnected and reconnected that connector 4 times this month. You do know that theres a built in white plastic insert tool on that connector that just needs to be depressed to seperate the connection???

I use a pair of slip joint plires and grip the top and bottom of the connection. Just squeeze in on one side of the plastic insert and then the other and it will just pop apart.
On a old used one, I soak the joint with WD-40 to lubricate the plastic insert to make it easier to depress.

I have not had any issues at all with mine.

Bill

 

Yes, I looked at my new slave cylinder right away and realized what the white circlet was for. I don't know what the deal with mine was but my Dad and I were pushing as hard as we could with two screwdrivers for quite a long time before it finally came loose. The white circlet was completely inside as well...no portion was sticking out and it still wouldn't budge. We just had to keep pushing and pushing and it finally came loose.

I am sure the 2nd go around will be a lot easier...hopefully that won't happen anytime soon though!

 

When you press in on the plastic thing, press the two connectors together and sometimes that will allow the fingers inside the connector to release easier. Same procedure for the fuel filter line.
I always press the line into the fuel filter and then insert the tool. It makes the tool slide in a LOT easier and the line will just pop out when you release it.

BC

 

I see what you are saying. Hopefully the next guy who has trouble comes across this thread first .

 

They used to give me fits as well. I know how they are supposed to work, but sometimes it just...doesnt. I ended up with a Mcleod adjustable master and the last few times I was able to simply unscrew the line from the end of that.

 

When I did mine, it took 3 different experienced mech who said it should be no problem. They know how it worked and said they had done 100s before. Still took 3 different people before one finally got it.

 

For you non-performance hungry individuals who do not have headers, but think it possible to still be cool with exhaust manifolds; it is easy to disregard this challenge.
I am in a borrowed car at my mothers house on a Sunday night after starting my clutch job on Thursday. I was at my friends house who has a lift. A friend I made while working at an automotive shop. I have an Engineering degree. That clutch slave hydraulic line is a ridiculous hassle, inaccessible, and defines misery. It sucks! (....and you are not cool with exhaust manifolds.) I am online ow, looking for a solution, particularly a premade one piece clutch slave hydraulic line. There is no way dozens of people everyday have headers on their car and do this everyday. GM should be ashamed of themselves. i am disappointed with everyone who has ever said the word 'Corvette' out loud for not making this hydraulic line an obvious corvette fact. That .50 cent tool in the link is great on the work bench, but there is no way to use it in the vehicle. You can't lubricate your brake fittings with petroleum based WD-40. That's a ridiculous statement. I wish I came across this information before I started, and could have been more prepared. Beware people, the GM factory clutch slave hydronic line is straight from hell.

 

LOL! If you can not get it apart, Please call me. I may have your solution. I have serviced several of these and have found a good way to make it easier to separate these type of fittings.
PM sent.

Bill

 

I used WD-40 and a modified 1958 Chrysler window/door handle removal tool. Easy peesey.

What, you don't have a 1958 Chrysler window/door handle removal tool in your tool box? What kind of mechanic (sorry - engineer) are you?

Engineer. That's your problem right there...

 

This sounds like the first time 427 has tried spinning a wrench. Sure it's a pain, but it's nowhere near my top 10. Crack the bleeder loose first and it'll pop right together.

 

Engineering degree, really?

 

 

Well,,,, As I stated previously,,,,,,,,,, IF,,,,,, You PRESS the two halves of the disconnect together prior to pressing the release ring, That releases pressure on the white ring that must be depressed to disconnect the coupling. I use a large open end wrench that when placed over the fitting will be able to contact the white ring that must be depressed. Use the wrench to apply equal force on the ring and depress it. I have NEVER had any issues separating the dozens of couplings that I have delt with over the years when using that technique.

 

I put in a dry break coupler.