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Active handling question......

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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #1  
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Default Active handling question......

I've owned my '04 Z06 for a little over five years.

The last two days it's been doing something that it never did before. After a cold start, and I start driving, the "Active Handling is warming up" message comes on and the active handling light comes on in the cluster.

It takes it about 10 miles on the freeway before it flashes the message that active handling is ready and the active handling light goes off.

If I stop and start it, it will work as before, until it has been off for several hours. Then the long warm up happens all over again.

I have had the "active handling warming up" message come on a few times over the years, but it has never stayed on more than a minute.

There are no codes related to active handling (I found a couple old HVAC codes)

Is my active handling about to fail?

I have a GMPP $0 deductible warranty that is still in effect, but will they fix it without codes and before it totally fails?

Thanks for any insight you may have............
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 11:16 PM
  #2  
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Well... There's two ways that I know of for that to come up in the DIC. One is if the SWPS has not been centered for 30 seconds; the other is if the underhood temperature sensor has either failed or is reading a very low temp....

I get that message all the time when driving through my parking garage, but as soon as I can drive in a straight line for 200 ft or so it says warm up complete and goes away...

Have you had any work done that required the removal of your steering rack recently? Based on your description of the issue I'm inclined to think that there's something wrong with the wheel position sensor. I'm surprised you don't have any codes... It shouldn't take ten miles for the active handling to warm up unless you're turning the wheel the whole time...
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 12:56 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
Well... There's two ways that I know of for that to come up in the DIC. One is if the SWPS has not been centered for 30 seconds; the other is if the underhood temperature sensor has either failed or is reading a very low temp....

I get that message all the time when driving through my parking garage, but as soon as I can drive in a straight line for 200 ft or so it says warm up complete and goes away...

Have you had any work done that required the removal of your steering rack recently? Based on your description of the issue I'm inclined to think that there's something wrong with the wheel position sensor. I'm surprised you don't have any codes... It shouldn't take ten miles for the active handling to warm up unless you're turning the wheel the whole time...
Thanks for the info....

I was not aware of an underhood temp sensor. I would think if it failed, the system would never show ready.

I guess I could have the SWPS acting up. I have not had any work done at all, in over a year. Not counting when I changed the oil last.

Prior to this, I've had that message maybe 3 times. All three it went off, shortly after pulling out of my parking area as you mentioned.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #4  
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I get that message sometimes when I start up. It happened a couple of times this past weekend at Watkins Glen. I started up, went to switch into competetive mode, and the display said "active handling warming up." It went out in about 30 seconds and I went into competetive mode, no problems. No codes in my car either. My '03 did it from time to time, and my '04 does it now and then. I asked the dealer about it, and they said it's no big deal, unless the "warming up" notice doesn't go away.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #5  
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Mine comes on from time to time but has never lasted more than a minute or so... I had read elsewhere also that problems with the wheel sensors can cause the active handling to not work properly... Maybe check those and the under hood temp sensor out first?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #6  
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I'll second checking the IAT. The active handling system uses the IAT to tell it how cold it is outside so it knows what kind of weather conditions it's dealing with. When the IAT connection is dead the active handling system thinks it's -38 degree's outside. There's nothing to 'warm up' on the active handling system, it's just waiting for all of the data to determine it's mode of operation for the current weather conditions. Since it can't see the IAT (one of the parameters it needs) it's simply telling you it's not ready to activate, or 'warming up'.

There are really only three problems that it could be. A bad connection at the connector that plugs into the IAT sensor, a bad ground, or a bad connection at the PCM. My symptoms appeared after I installed my Callaway Honker. Had you disconnected or worked on the IAT recently before you started having this problem?

Your GM dealer sells this IAT connection for about $28. It's a new connection with a 10 inch lead wire on it. Part Number 12102620. My local dealer had one. Cut the wire to the IAT sensor an inch or so from the end of connection and splice and solder this new piece in. I put shrink wrap over the soldered connection and then electrical tape over it and it looks like stock. I started the car and went for a drive. No warm up and no CE light. After about 3,000 miles of driving I am code free and CE light free.

Post all of your codes. I'll bet you have P0113 and P1111 stored.

Questions, let me know. This should be everything you need. If you want more, search on codes P0113H and P1111H.

Kurt
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #7  
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Hows your straight line/level road steering wheel position?

If your alignment is off and your steering wheel is cocked off center of to the left or right slightly when your going straight dons a level road, it can cause the same issue that your having.

BC
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #8  
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Move the car/steering wheel right after startup-you can make the message come out almost at will.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by kmetros
I'll second checking the IAT. The active handling system uses the IAT to tell it how cold it is outside so it knows what kind of weather conditions it's dealing with. When the IAT connection is dead the active handling system thinks it's -38 degree's outside. There's nothing to 'warm up' on the active handling system, it's just waiting for all of the data to determine it's mode of operation for the current weather conditions. Since it can't see the IAT (one of the parameters it needs) it's simply telling you it's not ready to activate, or 'warming up'.

There are really only three problems that it could be. A bad connection at the connector that plugs into the IAT sensor, a bad ground, or a bad connection at the PCM. My symptoms appeared after I installed my Callaway Honker. Had you disconnected or worked on the IAT recently before you started having this problem?

Your GM dealer sells this IAT connection for about $28. It's a new connection with a 10 inch lead wire on it. Part Number 12102620. My local dealer had one. Cut the wire to the IAT sensor an inch or so from the end of connection and splice and solder this new piece in. I put shrink wrap over the soldered connection and then electrical tape over it and it looks like stock. I started the car and went for a drive. No warm up and no CE light. After about 3,000 miles of driving I am code free and CE light free.

Post all of your codes. I'll bet you have P0113 and P1111 stored.

Questions, let me know. This should be everything you need. If you want more, search on codes P0113H and P1111H.

Kurt


Woooah........ Bingo!

I have thrown two P0113 codes lately. By the time I read them they were H codes and cleared right away. I did not believe it was connected because I did not know the IAT had anything to do with the active handling.......

I haven't touched the IAT sensor in over a year (at least intentionally....). I will definitely be looking into this..... Thanks!!!


Last edited by hattitude; Sep 6, 2011 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Hows your straight line/level road steering wheel position?

If your alignment is off and your steering wheel is cocked off center of to the left or right slightly when your going straight dons a level road, it can cause the same issue that your having.

BC
Thanks Bill, I was going to go down this road until I read the above post about the IAt sensor......

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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:09 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
Well... There's two ways that I know of for that to come up in the DIC. One is if the SWPS has not been centered for 30 seconds; the other is if the underhood temperature sensor has either failed or is reading a very low temp....
Thanks again, I didn't realize the temp sensor you were talking about was the IAT sensor.... I get it now......
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by kmetros
I'll second checking the IAT. The active handling system uses the IAT to tell it how cold it is outside so it knows what kind of weather conditions it's dealing with. When the IAT connection is dead the active handling system thinks it's -38 degree's outside. There's nothing to 'warm up' on the active handling system, it's just waiting for all of the data to determine it's mode of operation for the current weather conditions. Since it can't see the IAT (one of the parameters it needs) it's simply telling you it's not ready to activate, or 'warming up'.

There are really only three problems that it could be. A bad connection at the connector that plugs into the IAT sensor, a bad ground, or a bad connection at the PCM. My symptoms appeared after I installed my Callaway Honker. Had you disconnected or worked on the IAT recently before you started having this problem?

Your GM dealer sells this IAT connection for about $28. It's a new connection with a 10 inch lead wire on it. Part Number 12102620. My local dealer had one. Cut the wire to the IAT sensor an inch or so from the end of connection and splice and solder this new piece in. I put shrink wrap over the soldered connection and then electrical tape over it and it looks like stock. I started the car and went for a drive. No warm up and no CE light. After about 3,000 miles of driving I am code free and CE light free.

Post all of your codes. I'll bet you have P0113 and P1111 stored.

Questions, let me know. This should be everything you need. If you want more, search on codes P0113H and P1111H.

Kurt
Kurt

OUTSTANDING information!!

Bill
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:06 AM
  #13  
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OMG. I got an "OUTSTANDING information" and thumbs up from BILL! YES!! Now I feel like I'm in the big leagues! Bill, you're the man, and I'll take compliments from you all day long!

Ultimately, glad I could help. I had to piece this conclusion together from various sources to figure it out when I had the same symptoms a year and a half ago. Glad to save others the frustration!

Kurt


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Kurt

OUTSTANDING information!!

Bill
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #14  
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I just wanted to post the resolution to my problem/question......

First I have to thank kmetros & cdkcorvette7 who both provided the answer to my problem.

I was given info about the IAT being used by Active Handling and how it could cause problems. Additionally, that the connector could be to blame....

It was the easiest fix I've ever done.

I disconnected the IAT. I looked at the plug. I blew on it (don't ask, I have no idea why I did that). I ran my finger across the pins to ensure none were loose or broken, and then I reconnected the IAT.

I have not had the "active handling warming up" message nor a P0113 code since I made my "repair"....

Thanks all for the great, accurate info!

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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I've read this post 100 times now and I still have the same issue. P0113 and P1111 code. I've replaced the IAT sensor early this week. Check engine light came on again after I reset the codes. So now I'm back to ground zero. I decided to go to Autozone and buy the sensor that connected to the air bridge and see if that my issue ($17). I plan to take the car out tomorrow to Cars and Coffee Richmond so I will keep you posted.

My question for you all. What else could this be? My money is tight since getting layed off last month and I can't afford to drop alot of money into this car for stupid IAT issue.

Please help.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 11:45 PM
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Its time to greak out a meter and see whats what. You could have a broken wire in the connector at the terminal or one of the female pins in the connector couks be defective and deformed. Its not alwaya a sensor fault. Coule also be an issue with the wire in the engine harness.

Look at the rear of the engine where the harness bends around the metal bracket:




You have TWO wires for the IAT connector PURPLE and TAN. Purple should be sensor ground (Low Reff) thru the PCM and TAN should be 5 VDC

DTC P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage




Circuit Description
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor contains a semiconductor device which changes resistance based on temperature (a thermistor). The IAT sensor mounts in the air intake passage of the engine air induction system. The IAT sensor has a signal circuit and a ground circuit. The PCM applies a voltage (about 5 volts) on the signal circuit to the sensor. The PCM monitors changes in this voltage caused by changes in the resistance of the sensor in order to determine the intake air temperature.

When the PCM senses a signal voltage higher than the normal operating range of the sensor, this DTC sets.

Conditions for Running the DTC
DTCs P0102, P0103, P0117, P0118, P0500, P0502, P0503 are not set.
The engine is operating longer than 100 seconds.
The ECT is greater than 0°C (32°F).
The vehicle speed is less than 11 km/h (7 mph).
The Mass Air Flow is less than 15 grams per second.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
Intake Air Temperature is less than -35°C (-31°F).
The intermittent condition exists for a total of 1.0 second during a 20.0 second time period.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The powertrain control module (PCM) stores the DTC information into memory when the diagnostic runs and fails.
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will not illuminate.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The PCM stores this information in the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other non-emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids

Important
Remove any debris from the PCM\TAC module connector surfaces before servicing the PCM\TAC module. Inspect the PCM\TAC module connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the modules. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM\TAC modules.
For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness/component terminals. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.

If the engine has sat overnight, the engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature values should display within a few degrees of each other. If the temperatures are not within 3°C (5°F), refer to Temperature vs Resistance table.
For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

If DTC P0113 failed this ignition, this indicates a hard failure is present. When a hard failure is present, both the hard and intermittent DTCs set.

When moving related connectors, visually/physically inspect connectors for the following:

Poor mating of the connector halves or a terminal not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
Improperly formed or damaged terminals. Carefully reformed or replaced all connector terminals in the related circuits in order to insure proper terminal contact tension.
Poor terminal to wire connection. Inspect for poor crimps, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire.
Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. Inspect the connector seals for being there and for being damaged.
When moving the related wiring harnesses, visually/physically inspect the wiring for the following:

Wire insulation that is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short.
Wiring broken inside the insulation.
Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2
Install a scan tool.
Idle the engine.
Monitor the DTC Information using the scan tool.
Did DTC P0113 Fail This Ignition cycle?
--
Go to DTC P0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
Go to Step 3

3
Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
Observe the affected sensor value on a scan tool while moving the related harness connectors (at the component and the PCM).
Does the sensor value change abruptly while a related connector is being moved?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 4

4
Observe the affected sensor value on a scan tool while moving the related wiring harnesses.

Does the sensor value change abruptly while moving the related electrical harnesses?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 5

5
Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
Review the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data for this DTC and observe the parameters.
Turn OFF the ignition for 15 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the conditions required for this diagnostic to run, and as close to the conditions recorded in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records as possible. Special operating conditions that you need to meet before the PCM will run this diagnostic, where applicable, are listed in Conditions for Running the DTC.
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option, the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic failed this ignition?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Diagnostic Aids

6
Repair the damaged connectors/terminals. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 9
--

7
Repair the faulty wiring. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 9
--

8
Re-inspect all the related circuits and the connectors.
Replace the sensor/component if all the circuits have been inspected thoroughly and no faults can be found.
Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 9
--

9
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC Information option using the scan tool.
Idle the engine at the normal operating temperature.
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.
Does the scan tool indicate that this test ran and passed?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 2

10
Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Go to the applicable DTC table
System OK



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 316944
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DTC P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency




Circuit Description
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air ingested by the engine. The direct measurement of the air entering the engine is more accurate than calculating the airflow from the MAP, the IAT and the engine speed (speed/density). The MAF sensor has a battery feed, ground, and a signal circuit.

The MAF sensor used on this engine is a hot wire type. This engine uses the MAF sensor to measure air flow rate. The MAF output frequency is a function of the power required to keep the air flow sensing elements (hot wires) at a fixed temperature above the ambient temperature. Air flowing through the sensor cools the sensing elements. The amount of cooling is proportional to the amount of air flow. The MAF sensor requires a greater amount of current in order to maintain the hot wires at a constant temperature as the air flow increases. The MAF sensor converts the changes in current draw to a frequency signal read by the PCM. The PCM calculates the air flow (grams per second) based on this signal.

The PCM monitors the MAF sensor frequency. The PCM can determine if the sensor is stuck low, stuck high, not providing the airflow value expected for a given operating condition, or that the signal appears to be stuck based on a lack of signal variation expected during the normal operation. This diagnostic monitors for too high of an airflow rate. When the PCM detects that the MAF sensor frequency is above a predetermined value, this DTC sets.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The engine is operating greater than 0.5 second.
The engine speed is at least 300 RPM.
The ignition voltage is at least 8.0 volts.
All conditions stable for 2.0 seconds.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The Mass Air Flow frequency is greater than 14,000 Hz.
All conditions met for greater than 1.0 second.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure records.
The PCM utilizes speed density (RPM, MAP, IAT) for fuel management.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids

Important
Remove any debris from the PCM\TAC module connector surfaces before servicing the PCM\TAC module. Inspect the PCM\TAC module connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the modules. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM\TAC modules.
For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness/component terminals. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.
Water entering the air intake system that reaches the MAF sensor could cause this DTC to set. The water rapidly cools the hot wires in the sensor, causing a false indication of excessive airflow. Inspect the following areas for evidence (witness marks) of water intrusion:
AIR system
Intake air system

The following may cause an intermittent:
Poor Connections; Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
Mis-routed harness
Rubbed through wire insulation
Broken wire inside the insulation
A poor connection in the ignition feed circuit to the MAF sensor can cause a DTC P0103 to set.
For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

Monitoring the MAF sensor frequency will determine if the fault is present or the malfunction is intermittent. A poor connection at the MAF sensor or at the fuse causes this DTC to set.

Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

This step tests for electro-magnetic interference on the MAF sensor signal circuit. There should be no signal indicated on the scan tool with the sensor disconnected.

Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2
Idle the engine.
Monitor the MAF sensor display on the Engine 2 Data List of the scan tool.
Is the MAF sensor frequency above the specified value?
14,000 Hz
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 3

3
Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
Review the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data for this DTC and observe the parameters.
Turn OFF the ignition for 15 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the conditions required for this diagnostic to run, and as close to the conditions recorded in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records as possible. Special operating conditions that you need to meet before the PCM will run this diagnostic, where applicable, are listed in Conditions for Running the DTC.
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option, the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic failed this ignition?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Diagnostic Aids

4
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the MAF sensor connector.
Idle the engine.
Monitor the MAF sensor frequency using the scan tool.
Does scan tool indicate a MAF sensor frequency?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 5

5
Inspect for a poor connection at the MAF sensor harness terminals. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
Replace the faulty terminal(s) if you find a poor connection. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 6

6
Replace the MAF sensor. Refer to Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Replacement .

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 10
--

7
Inspect the MAF sensor harness for incorrect routing at the following locations:
Near secondary ignition wires or components.
Other high current components. Such as solenoids, relays, and motors.
Correct the harness routing if you find incorrect routing.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 8

8
Inspect the MAF sensor signal circuit terminal connections at the PCM. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
Replace the faulty terminal(s) if you find a poor connection. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 9

9

Important
Program the replacement PCM. Refer to PCM/TAC Module Replacement .


Replace the PCM.

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 10
--

10
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC Information option using the scan tool.
Idle the engine at the normal operating temperature.
Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.
Does the scan tool indicate that this test ran and passed?
--
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 2

11
Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Go to the applicable DTC table.
System OK



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 316542
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #17  
Pete W's Avatar
Pete W
Burning Brakes
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 870
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From: Andreas Pennsylvania
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I got the active handling warming up message this summer when I went drag racing. I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I was going into competition mode for the drags and I figured maybe it was over working the system (doing my burnout). After reading this thread I am not sure if that is what was happening. I never get the message any other time, though. Hmmmmmm.
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To Active handling question......

Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #18  
Bill Dearborn's Avatar
Bill Dearborn
Tech Contributor
25 Year Member
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Top Answer: 3
 
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 40,995
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Originally Posted by Pete W
I got the active handling warming up message this summer when I went drag racing. I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I was going into competition mode for the drags and I figured maybe it was over working the system (doing my burnout). After reading this thread I am not sure if that is what was happening. I never get the message any other time, though. Hmmmmmm.
That could easily be because of what you did just before you did the burn out. Did you start the engine and very slowly pull around a corner to get to the burnout box? The system needs to be driven in a straight line over a distance of a couple of hundred feet at a speed over 6 mph so the system can calibrate to straight head. It does this calibration with each engine start. When I used to use Comp Mode during autocrosses I would park as far away from the starting area as I could get and when it got time to get in line I would start the car and drive in a straight line at just under 10 mph so the system was ready to work as soon as I let out the clutch on the starting line. If I had to get back in line right after the run I would let the engine run no matter how hot just to keep the system from resetting.

Bill
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:47 AM
  #19  
Pete W's Avatar
Pete W
Burning Brakes
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 870
Likes: 7
From: Andreas Pennsylvania
Default

Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
That could easily be because of what you did just before you did the burn out. Did you start the engine and very slowly pull around a corner to get to the burnout box? The system needs to be driven in a straight line over a distance of a couple of hundred feet at a speed over 6 mph so the system can calibrate to straight head. It does this calibration with each engine start. When I used to use Comp Mode during autocrosses I would park as far away from the starting area as I could get and when it got time to get in line I would start the car and drive in a straight line at just under 10 mph so the system was ready to work as soon as I let out the clutch on the starting line. If I had to get back in line right after the run I would let the engine run no matter how hot just to keep the system from resetting.

Bill
I didn't know about the calibration it had to do. So you hit the nail on the head. There are many times, I was shutting down due to waiting in line, and the ridiculous heat that day. I doubt I was driving a couple hundred feet to get to the burn out box either. Ok, I definitely learned something here. Thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #20  
Neck Breaker's Avatar
Neck Breaker
Pro
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
From: Chesterfield VA
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Update...

After reading your post Bill I decided it was too advance for me to figure out. ;o) So I did the next best thing. I check the DIC and I had the following codes with No CEL. P0113 C and P1111 H C. I went to AutoZone Friday night and bought the Air Charge Temp Sensor (part # SU176). I took the old one out and replace it with the new sensor. I didn't start the car up until the next morning and I never reset my codes because I wanted to see what would happen. I drove it to the Richmond Cars and Coffee and recieved no CEL. Left C&C and headed home and still no CEL. Pulled into the drive way and checked my codes. The P0113 disappeared and the P1111 code is now showing history.

So my issue was the IAT sensor itself was bad. Replace the sensor and as of right now no issues. (Knock on wood) So for any new people replace the connector to the IAT and if that doesn't fix the issue you may want to replace the sensor.
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