Well i hope that my words and terms are clear enough

After having alignement issue with the block(now all perfect with the all the help of members) and some valvetrain noise issue(now perfect again with all your help) it came down to one last problem.I made the 500miles clutch break in and also my new motor break in is complete.I now need to go to the dyno to get it fully tuned....but.

I decide to double check everything and to adjust the TICK Master the correct way.I took the car to a empty parking lot and did some test.I put it in first gear and let my foot on the clutch pedal fully down to the floor.I then rev the car to 6000rpm (like stated on other post) to see if i was totally disengaged.But the car did make maybe 1 or 2 inch forward.So not enough pressure applied...i think.

So i adjust the master by 1 full turn at a time and redo the test.But even at the limit of the master could go(i know this because i was so far away in the adjuster that it did fall down on the floor from the master rod), the car would still ,with the clucth pedal fully down to the floor,go a inch forward.

I also realise that in neutral(no foot on the clutch pedal and the gear lever in neutral),if i press the clucth pedal all the way down and put the lever in 1st,the car would make a small kinda kick forward...But after this i could still keep my foot on the clutch pedal,put the lever back in neutral and put it back again in first and nothing would happen...So the clutch doesnt fully disengaged(is this the right term???).

Setup:
-c5z 2001
-SPEC Super twin 900 torque rating,installed with the shim provide by spec
-TICK Adjustable master cylinder
-TICK Speed bleeder
-New GM slave cylinder

The car drives great and shift all gear perfectly without any problem,.I mean i did not test it at wot since i was in break in miles but i could go from 3500rpm upshift(from 2th to 3rd or 3rd to 4th) with no effort(2 fingers) and with the clutch pedal only half way down.From a dead stop i can put it in first also without any effort.I could aslo downshift has easily.Ive bleed the system a couple of times to be sure(i passed a full litres of dot 4 fluid) and there is no air in the system.


So whats wrong with my car ????

 

Just a guess, but I'd say the shim wasn't thick enough.

 

I didn't think the shim was needed......

 

You used the shim included with the kit, but did your measurements warrant the use of the shim?

 

Hey, at least we all think it has something to do with your shim!

 

It would be a logical idea since i cant seems to have enough pressure...

Yup, in the SPEC instructions they wrote that you need to use the shim with a f-body or corvette.

If i didnt used the shim i would probably had way more pressure problem...i think..

 

You should still always take the little extra time and measure it to see if you will need a shim and if you do a EXACT size

 

We have had to mill/or shim the slave inorder to make that clutch work correctly. You will have to measure from the pressure plate of the clutch to bell. Then measure from the TQ tube to the flat edge of the throwout bearing spring removed. Find out how much clearance you have.

 

Did you take the measurements??

 

My RPS twin didn't need no stinking shims.

 

Can i do all that after removing the lower part of the bellhousing??
And i know i maybe asking to much but do you got a diagram available on the net so i could see what im seraching for.Thanks

Nope i didnt because i never had to do this with any of my car.And i never knew that fact before reading this forum after my small problem with my clutch.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...sc-clutch.html