Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 183
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From: Severna Park MD
St. Jude Donor '08
Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation
I plan on installing new plugs and plug wires soon. For you guys that have done this on C5s, did you use anti-seize on the plug threads and dielectric grease on the plug wire boots? The service manual for my 99 C5 does not mention using anti-seize (unless I missed it). I think it makes sense to use the anti-seize and tighten the plugs very carefully since your dealing with aluminum heads. I did this when changing plugs on my C4s and never had a problem. Appreciate any comments!
FYI, pulled a couple of the stock AC 41-952 plugs, if there were pucks on them when new, they ain't there now and the gap was almost .070. This is with less than 21,000 miles.
FYI, pulled a couple of the stock AC 41-952 plugs, if there were pucks on them when new, they ain't there now and the gap was almost .070. This is with less than 21,000 miles.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,025
Likes: 2,716
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
The Service Manual for my 2001 also does not mention using antiseize on the plugs. Someone posted that antiseize can reduce the electrical conductivity from the body of the plug to the cylinder head, and should be avoided. They instead recommended 2 drops of Mobil-1 5W-30 on the threads of each plug before installation. I have no idea whether that is a good idea or bad.
My Service Manual also does not mention using the dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Any suggestions?
My Service Manual also does not mention using the dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Any suggestions?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Gearhead Jim)
:yesnod: I've heard this from C5 techs as well. Unfortunately :( it was days after I had changed mine out and used anti-seize. Next time I pull them I'm cleaning them off and using oil. :yesnod:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,143
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From: Charlotte NC
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
I used anti seize compound on the threads and dialectric grease on the plug boots. I would defer to the opinions of techs re the anti seize compound, but I've experienced no problems and will continue using it. As for the dialectric grease, I've always used it and again, no problems.
Just my humble opinion for what it's worth. (NOTE* Free advice is usually worth what you pay for it!)
:D
Just my humble opinion for what it's worth. (NOTE* Free advice is usually worth what you pay for it!)
:D
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Littleton MA
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
I did the plugs about 2 weeks ago. what I found was the gaps range between .55 to .68. When placing new plugs in I did not use any grease,oil or anything of any kind. Just be careful and use a Tq. wrench if you don't know. They don't have to be in there tight just snug. I gapped all the plugs to .55 (NGK) and Magnacor 8.5 wires. Was done in a hour time. :D
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (lugnutss)
I always use anti-seize and dielectrice grease. The anti-seize has a metal compound in it so I wouldn't worry about loss of conductivity. Just don't put it on with a spoon. If you ever have a plug seize in an aluminum head, you will wish it had anti-seize on it when installed. As for using oil, that is likely gone the first time you drive your car and the head get hot.
For tightness, use the torque spec in the manual. I think it is 13 ft-lb, but double check the number. Just my $0.02.
For tightness, use the torque spec in the manual. I think it is 13 ft-lb, but double check the number. Just my $0.02.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 1
From: Newland US
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
I use a copper based anti-seize compound instead of the aluminum....feeling that the copper based probably had better heat transfer as well as better electrical conductivity.
I also use a little dielectric grease in the boots.
Good luck.
Mark
I also use a little dielectric grease in the boots.
Good luck.
Mark
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,154
Likes: 1
From: Murphy TX
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
Factory replacement wires come w/ dielectric already in the boots. ;) I thought the oil on plug trick was to aid in avoiding cross threading, not so much as anti seize...
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Dunnellon Florida
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (vettenuts)
I agree with vettnuts,use anti-sieze sparingly.If too much is used it can run down to the electrodes and actually foul the plug.If you don't use it you may one day wish you had when a plug dosen't come out.It is ALWAYS used
on plugs in aircraft engines and I can assure you that if it increased the
chances of a misfire it would not be.I use it every chance I get,especially where
the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion exists.(That is what causes STEEL
bolts to stick in ALUMINUM cylinder heads/blocks) :yesnod:
on plugs in aircraft engines and I can assure you that if it increased the
chances of a misfire it would not be.I use it every chance I get,especially where
the possibility of dissimilar metal corrosion exists.(That is what causes STEEL
bolts to stick in ALUMINUM cylinder heads/blocks) :yesnod:
Pro
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 725
Likes: 21
From: Dallas TX
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
I replaced my stock plugs last weekend with NGK TR 55's. I gapped mine (actually side gapped) to 0.057". I used anti sieze on the threads and dielectric grease on the wires. No way would I NOT use anti sieze on an aluminum head.
So far, so good.
Everett
So far, so good.
Everett
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 170
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From: Westchester IL
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (Jim M)
When I changed the stock plugs to NGKs I used an anti-seize compound and I would recommend doing this to anyone. As the previous posts state, you really don't need very much on the threads to do the job. I also changed the plug wires and I used dielectric grease on the boots. A Q-tip worked fine for applying the grease. The engine seemed to idle a bit rough before the changes and now it idles as smooth as can be. I haven't noticed any negative changes. Plus I thought the anti-seize compound provided some lubrication and made it very easy to screw the new plugs in by hand, thus avoiding any chance of accidentally cross-threading the plug into the head. I think the general rule is when you do your final tightening of the plug you should reduce the torque slightly when you use an anti-seize compound.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,547
Likes: 0
From: Suwanee, GA
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (lugnutss)
I did the plugs about 2 weeks ago. what I found was the gaps range between .55 to .68. When placing new plugs in I did not use any grease,oil or anything of any kind. Just be careful and use a Tq. wrench if you don't know. They don't have to be in there tight just snug. I gapped all the plugs to .55 (NGK) and Magnacor 8.5 wires. Was done in a hour time. :D
I can't even see plug wires....let alone where the plugs might actually be?
Are you guys changing plugs from below or through the wheelwells?
What gives? How many u-joints do I need in my socket extensions to get to the damn things????
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,408
Likes: 1,595
From: Western NY
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (HTWHLS)
Actually, the plugs on the C-5 aren't all that bad to change. I did mine last weekend with: 3/8 drive ratchet and torque wrench, one short extension for plugs #1-#6 and #8, and one short extension, one long extension, and a u-joint for plug #7.
Took maybe an hour, because I found it difficult to get a good grip on the wires and remove them from the plugs, and the application of anti-seize and dielectric grease added a few minutes to the job.
Good luck !! (If you think the C-5 looks tough, you haven't worked on a '93-'97 Camaro with the LT-1!!)
Took maybe an hour, because I found it difficult to get a good grip on the wires and remove them from the plugs, and the application of anti-seize and dielectric grease added a few minutes to the job.
Good luck !! (If you think the C-5 looks tough, you haven't worked on a '93-'97 Camaro with the LT-1!!)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,269
Likes: 1
From: Richmond Ca
Re: Spark Plug and Plug Wire Installation (HTWHLS)
Ok, I'm pretty damn handy with a wrench...and have done plugs numerous times...anyone want to tell me where they've hidden them on the C5? How much of the engine compartment has to be dismantled and removed?
I can't even see plug wires....let alone where the plugs might actually be?
Are you guys changing plugs from below or through the wheelwells?
What gives? How many u-joints do I need in my socket extensions to get to the damn things????
I can't even see plug wires....let alone where the plugs might actually be?
Are you guys changing plugs from below or through the wheelwells?
What gives? How many u-joints do I need in my socket extensions to get to the damn things????
[Modified by wwashing, 9:46 AM 5/2/2002]
