(Was not sure if I should post here or the scan and tune section)

Ok guys,
I am a new '98 c5 owner and ever since the second day of ownership, I've been plagued with check engine, ABS, and traction traction lights. Today I just learned I can pull up DTC's on the insrtument panel.
I go to school full time for automotive technology and diagnosis so am somewhat educated on how automotive electrical systems work and can be repaired.
These are the codes I pulled up:

P0134- Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0154- Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1

Now so far with these set of codes, I found the #15 mini fuse was blown for o2 sensor circuit. I replaced the fuse, hit the ignition and the fuse blew again. Next, I got up under the car, inspected the wiring and unhooked both front o2 sensors connectors (the rear o2 sensors have been deleted by previous owner) replaced the fuse again, hit the ignition and the fuse remained good. That told me that the harness from the PCM to the o2 sensor connectors ( GM 4 pin flat type) was NOT shorted to ground. I then hooked up just the bank 2 connector, hit the ignition and the fuse blew.
Some other notes:
The vehicle has longtube headers and some of the o2 sensor harness had melted against the headers and was repaired with new connectors and new wire extensions and butt connectors.
Is it posible the previous owners repairs mixed up the wires from the harness to the o2 connectors and is shorting to ground that way? Or is it posible the o2 sensors themselves have been damaged and the heater circuits are shorting to ground?
This is as far as I got today with just two of the 13 codes. The others are as follows:

PCM
P1545- A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P1571- ASR Desired Torque

TCS
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1234- LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1235- RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1255- EBTCM Internal Malfunction
C1281- Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction
C1286- Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction
C1288-

IPC
B0516- Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction

HVAC
B0333- Outside Air Temp Sensor Open

Anyone with any experience with these codes would be greatly appreciated

 

Are these current codes? If not or you don't know, you may want to reset all of the codes, drive it some, and then re-check to see which codes (if any) come back.

Do you have access to the manuals in your classes? The manuals pretty much spell out the potential causes and troubleshooting procedures for each code.

 

Well... hopefully one of the real electrical experts like lucky131969 or bill curlee will chime in soon.

Did you check splice pack 122? It's the splice pack underneath the left rear portion of the battery tray on the passenger side of the engine compartment. That pack is grounded at G105 on the lower left side of the motor. That looks like the chassis ground location for the O2 sensors.

Have you tested the sensors themselves?

 

The o2 sensor codes are both history and current. The TCS and other codes are mostly just history codes. I not sure how the G112 splice pack wound make my o2 sensor cuircuits short to gound.
Today at school I am going to print out every thing All Data has for the o2 sensor curcuits. Also, anyone know a good way of bench testing o2 sensors out of the vehicle?
Thanks for the input guys!

 

Half right...........it's G105......

 

http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublish...or-testing.htm

 

The first thing you need to do, is get under the car, and inspect the wiring....for heat damage around the exhaust, prior repairs, etc. Do you have headers? Why would you bench test the sensors, when you have a fuse that's blowing, and you don't know if the wiring is good ?

 

If you disconnect the O2 sensors and the fuse still blows, then look elsewhere for shorting.

 

If you read my OP, I do have headers and there was some prior heat damage that was repaired by the previous owner. Also in the OP, I stated that I un-pluged both o2 sensors, replaced the fuse, hit the ignition and the fuse remained fine. That let me know the harness was NOT shorting to ground that way, so it had to be something with the sensor it self. I wanted to bench test the o2 sensor to see if the heater curcuit inside the sensor is shorting to ground.

 

Yep, my fault....read to fast. So plug in one at a time, and see if the fuse blows, it least that will isolate it to a side......then take a meter to the heater circuit, and see if it's shorted to ground. No need to remove the sensor, just probe the connector.

 

Well, I got the o2 sensor issue resolved. As it turned out, some of the wires on the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor connector were backwards. The 12v heater circuit wire had been running into the O2 low reference circuit which is case grounded causing the fuse to blow.

Now on to all the TCS codes...

 

backwards wiring?

perhaps you may want to have a look at the hub sensor wiring as well.