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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Default Disc Brake Question

I just finished changing the front pads and the service manual calls for new bolts. The torque is 23 foot pounds and it appears to have red locktite on the threads. I just cleaned the threads and put some more red locktite on the thread and re-installed. Why does the service manual call for replacement and why does it not mention use of locktite?
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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GM conspiracy to help Stealerships make $$$$$$

I just wire brush the threads clean or if really gummed up with Locktite run them through a thread chasing die.
If you don't over torque them they are like the Energizer Bunny..... they keep going and going and ........
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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I'd just clean them up and use them again.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 08:30 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I thought that since the torque was low that it could not be an over stress problem.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 08:43 AM
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From what I have found, it is actually cheaper to repl bolts than for shop to take time to properly clean them. Plus if you don't get them cleaned properly, they could work themselves loose then there is liablity issues. I have had mine in and out over 50 times in the past 3 years for track days. I spent a lot of time cleaning them with brush and die before reusing them. I don't use the loctite as they are in and out so much.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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It is probably a liablity issue.You should have no problems reusing them.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rebelheart
It is probably a liablity issue.You should have no problems reusing them.


I clean and re-use mine...
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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We have done thousands of brake jobs in the shop and have maybe replaced a half dozen bolts that were rusted or corroded badly.
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Thanks for the replies, I just could not imagine the reason the shop manual would call for replacement and not call for adding locktite, and I could not imagine the parts department stocking a bolt with that part number and a tube of locktite to apply. It all seemed like more of a CYA thing to me too. The manual does not mention the need for a 16 mm wrench to hold the pin while removing the bolt either and they show a clamp used to retract the cylinders before removing the assembly and I could not imagine how that clamp would work either. I think the writer of that sequence never changed a set of pads and the engineers might not have read the book. On the other side, the shop manual is very helpful to keep you from removing the 125 foot pound mounting bolts for the whole assembly if you only want to change the pads. Now to move on the the rear pads and a new adventure....thanks again
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