Removing Cooling Fans (Engine)
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
Removing Cooling Fans (Engine)
Hey folks,
So, if I read the shop manual correctly, the fans pull up, then back a bit and are pushed out the bottom of the car. Correct? After the top support is removed of course. And the wiring disconnected.
While trying to fit the VR power duct, I took the top radiator support off to see if that added clearance would help. Discovered at that time that the front of the radiator and AC condensor are filled with debris. No wonder the car wants to run hot. And maybe no wonder that a previous owner altered the fan turn on temps to both come on at 188 degrees. Easier than hosing out the radiator.
Oh, and the middle portion of the lower air deflector is also missing. I have a new set ready to go.
Let me know if I got it right.
BTW......where do folks mount an auxillary Auto Trans cooler?
Thanks,
Ron
So, if I read the shop manual correctly, the fans pull up, then back a bit and are pushed out the bottom of the car. Correct? After the top support is removed of course. And the wiring disconnected.
While trying to fit the VR power duct, I took the top radiator support off to see if that added clearance would help. Discovered at that time that the front of the radiator and AC condensor are filled with debris. No wonder the car wants to run hot. And maybe no wonder that a previous owner altered the fan turn on temps to both come on at 188 degrees. Easier than hosing out the radiator.
Oh, and the middle portion of the lower air deflector is also missing. I have a new set ready to go.
Let me know if I got it right.
BTW......where do folks mount an auxillary Auto Trans cooler?
Thanks,
Ron
Team Owner
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Not sure what plastic you are referreing to. My factory fans were in "new" condition when I sold them earlier this year. Here is a link with pics of them. I now have some aftermarket fans that draw twice + the CFM the factory fans did. Because of the Maggie I now have installed I had some heating issues in the southern Az. summer heat..... Once the air cleaner system is off they came right out the top with no interference from anything. If you get the car high enough in the air (lift required in my estimation) they will also come out the bottom. I don't have a lift... 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...7-2004-c5.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...7-2004-c5.html
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 174,312
Likes: 1,217
From: Here
Pilot of Beer Force 1
Tampa Regional Coordinator
CI 4-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Organizer St. Jude Fundraiser
I believe in the Beer Fairy
DeWitts.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=378
And I think that TPE ( Las Vegas) has a sale going on for DeWitts products now......
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=378
And I think that TPE ( Las Vegas) has a sale going on for DeWitts products now......
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
Here are a couple of photos showing the warped fan assembly and the debris packed into the radiator.
As near as I can tell, it won't come out the top.
It's not bolted in, right?
Thanks,
I have heard the Dewitts is excellent. Not in the budget right now.
The fans work fine, but they have a lot to work against!
Ron
As near as I can tell, it won't come out the top.
It's not bolted in, right?
Thanks,
I have heard the Dewitts is excellent. Not in the budget right now.
The fans work fine, but they have a lot to work against!
Ron
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
Reviving an old post of mine from right after I bought the car.
I have had the car all apart over the winter for a head/cam/intake etc project. I don't remember how I got the fans out, I think my son did it.
Anyway, trying to get them back in form the top is impossible. I realize folks here say they will come out, but just don't see it unless yours is an older car with the ABS unit in the rear.
Re-read the shop manual....gee isn't that novel.... removed the sway bar mounts from the frame, dropped the swaybar down, and slid it in place. Total time to installed was 10 minutes with a smoke break.
Ron
I have had the car all apart over the winter for a head/cam/intake etc project. I don't remember how I got the fans out, I think my son did it.
Anyway, trying to get them back in form the top is impossible. I realize folks here say they will come out, but just don't see it unless yours is an older car with the ABS unit in the rear.
Re-read the shop manual....gee isn't that novel.... removed the sway bar mounts from the frame, dropped the swaybar down, and slid it in place. Total time to installed was 10 minutes with a smoke break.
Ron
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
I KNOW FOR A FACT,,, that the fans and bracket will come out from the top. Done it many times. Yea,, its tight and you have to do some wiggling but they will come iout from the top.
BC
BC
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
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From: Whittier CA
I have done it both ways top and bottom. My choice is drop the sway bar at the bushings and out drops the fan unit. I drive it up on the race ramps. Al so a lot easyer to deal with the wiring no fighting.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Either way I hate having to take them out!
Thanks,Matt
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Todd
Drifting
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From: Katy TX
Not sure what plastic you are referreing to. My factory fans were in "new" condition when I sold them earlier this year. Here is a link with pics of them. I now have some aftermarket fans that draw twice + the CFM the factory fans did. Because of the Maggie I now have installed I had some heating issues in the southern Az. summer heat..... Once the air cleaner system is off they came right out the top with no interference from anything. If you get the car high enough in the air (lift required in my estimation) they will also come out the bottom. I don't have a lift...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...7-2004-c5.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...7-2004-c5.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 21
From: Roswell GA
Can or best?
Just because you can do something does not mean that for you it is the best option. Last time I cleaned my radiator I did the move the sway bar out the bottom route and was comfortable that I was not putting anything else in danger. Also actually took the radiator out and cleaned it real well.
The other question that the OP asked was about trans cooler location.
Here are a couple pictures of how mine went. Nice mod - about 10-15 degrees less than coolant temps all the time.
Oh - the cheapest part is the cooler it self - look at another $100 or more for connectors and hoses to get it installed.
Pic 1 - top of radiator lines not attached shroud still off
Pic 2 - under the front lines around the side air dam & shroud still off
Pic 3 - shows new connections to "cut" stock lines
The other question that the OP asked was about trans cooler location.
Here are a couple pictures of how mine went. Nice mod - about 10-15 degrees less than coolant temps all the time.
Oh - the cheapest part is the cooler it self - look at another $100 or more for connectors and hoses to get it installed.
Pic 1 - top of radiator lines not attached shroud still off
Pic 2 - under the front lines around the side air dam & shroud still off
Pic 3 - shows new connections to "cut" stock lines
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
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From: Portland OR
Hey Matt,
They are Russell 640610. Capthuf was kind enough to tell me, so pay it forward! $14 each, ouch!
I actually flared the shorter portion of the lines you see. But a guy could just add them right at the stock union down by the bellhousing.
Have fun!
Ron
They are Russell 640610. Capthuf was kind enough to tell me, so pay it forward! $14 each, ouch!
I actually flared the shorter portion of the lines you see. But a guy could just add them right at the stock union down by the bellhousing.
Have fun!
Ron
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
I have mine done already but I would like to shorten the factory line like you did to make an even smoother transition!
Thanks for the part number!
Thanks,Matt
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 21
From: Roswell GA
Put Cooler in series with stock one or replace
There is lots of discussion on this. I did the series thing.
So from the return of the built in cooler it goes up front to the extra cooler and then back to the tranny. The theory is that while we want temps that are not as high - we also do need it to be in the 150 range. If you bypass the stock one - you have nothing to heat up the trans fluid when it is cold. This may not be a Florida issue - but even the radiator has the thermostate on it so that the water in the engine gets hot faster before it opens.
Putting them in series is also the reason I put my cooler on the drivers side - so it did not block air flow to the stock cooler which is on the passenger side.
Finally you see two new hoses in pic 4 because I replaced the rubber line section that went into the stock cooler as over time rubber rots and those connections were shown to be the first point of failure in the stock setup. No rubber hoses on the car. Silicone coolent hoses - ss brake lines, and ss trans lines. Should be good to go for another 10 years!!!
While I was at it I added an almost free mod with an additional leaf screen in the front.
So from the return of the built in cooler it goes up front to the extra cooler and then back to the tranny. The theory is that while we want temps that are not as high - we also do need it to be in the 150 range. If you bypass the stock one - you have nothing to heat up the trans fluid when it is cold. This may not be a Florida issue - but even the radiator has the thermostate on it so that the water in the engine gets hot faster before it opens.
Putting them in series is also the reason I put my cooler on the drivers side - so it did not block air flow to the stock cooler which is on the passenger side.
Finally you see two new hoses in pic 4 because I replaced the rubber line section that went into the stock cooler as over time rubber rots and those connections were shown to be the first point of failure in the stock setup. No rubber hoses on the car. Silicone coolent hoses - ss brake lines, and ss trans lines. Should be good to go for another 10 years!!!
While I was at it I added an almost free mod with an additional leaf screen in the front.
Last edited by KingTut; Jun 7, 2012 at 10:37 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
Great looking car!
I figure the 3600 stall will help get the trans up to temp just fine. Also, Performabuilt requires the stock cooler to be bypassed for warranty purposes. Not too sure about that logic, but I have bypassed on all cars I've had with a stall and never an issue. I think either is fine.
What exhaust is that?
Ron
I figure the 3600 stall will help get the trans up to temp just fine. Also, Performabuilt requires the stock cooler to be bypassed for warranty purposes. Not too sure about that logic, but I have bypassed on all cars I've had with a stall and never an issue. I think either is fine.
What exhaust is that?
Ron