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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 11:19 AM
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Installed my PFadt Coilovers and have them threaded all the way down into the cups front and rear.

I need the fronts a 1.5" lower since i have a reverse rake!

Can I thread down the perch or does this effect preload?

PFADT need clearer instructions its so vague!

TIA
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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For what it's worth, I threaded my perches right on down for the stance I was looking for and I've had no issues.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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Thanks for that info!

Only option I see!
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SR-71
For what it's worth, I threaded my perches right on down for the stance I was looking for and I've had no issues.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Well, my feeling is that your ride height is going to be pretty slammed in the rear with the bodies threaded all the way into the rear cups. You can get a little more drop out of the fronts by threading the spring perches down, but in the end you my want to raise the rear to even it out. We recommend a ground to top of fender ride height of about 26.5 inches in the front and rear for optimal handling on the C5, if you want to go lower then that you can, but handling may begin to be adversely effected at that point.

Removing spring preload will effect your corner balances a little bit, but the car will sit back on the ground back on the springs when it comes off the lift. Unless you're threading the collar down more than an inch or so the chances of the spring coming loose from the spring perch while the car is on the ground is pretty slim.

Drop the front a little, raise the rear a little... or just run our recommended ride height and you should be fine! Trying to drop the front end another inch and a half with the spring perch is going to run the risk of letting the spring perch come unseated on the street.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Pfadt Racing
Well, my feeling is that your ride height is going to be pretty slammed in the rear with the bodies threaded all the way into the rear cups. You can get a little more drop out of the fronts by threading the spring perches down, but in the end you my want to raise the rear to even it out. We recommend a ground to top of fender ride height of about 26.5 inches in the front and rear for optimal handling on the C5, if you want to go lower then that you can, but handling may begin to be adversely effected at that point.

Removing spring preload will effect your corner balances a little bit, but the car will sit back on the ground back on the springs when it comes off the lift. Unless you're threading the collar down more than an inch or so the chances of the spring coming loose from the spring perch while the car is on the ground is pretty slim.

Drop the front a little, raise the rear a little... or just run our recommended ride height and you should be fine! Trying to drop the front end another inch and a half with the spring perch is going to run the risk of letting the spring perch come unseated on the street.
Rears are at 27" and almost bottomed out in the cups and the front would not break 27.6" unless the perch came down!

Thanks for your help!
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 02:28 AM
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I set mine to 26.5 both F/R. Looks and rides great! New out of the box, I could get the rears down to 26.5 by nearly bottoming out the adjustment. The fronts required the lower perch be adjusted up ~ 1/2" to get it down to 26.5. FYI, I did the with the blessing of Pfadt.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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Hey Mario. Are you running a wheel and tire combination that is over all the same diameter as stock? If your running an oversized tire that may raise the car and skew your ground to fender measurements, which are assuming you're running a tire of stock height. Also, it may be a good idea to send some pictures of your install over to info@pfadtracing.com . Lets take a look at what you've got going on there, maybe there is something we can see.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Pfadt Racing
Hey Mario. Are you running a wheel and tire combination that is over all the same diameter as stock? If your running an oversized tire that may raise the car and skew your ground to fender measurements, which are assuming you're running a tire of stock height. Also, it may be a good idea to send some pictures of your install over to info@pfadtracing.com . Lets take a look at what you've got going on there, maybe there is something we can see.
I appreciate the help had it aligned at race werks and they set my ride height at 26.5 Front and 27.25 rear per my request.

I am running CCW C10's 275 35 18 and 335 30 18 RA1's. No matter what front perch had to move down.

The only problem I'm having now is drilling adjustment holes since I have dynamat in the rear and it wont come up. I now have to remove shocks to drill from bottom, major PITA.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mariofromnewyork
I appreciate the help had it aligned at race werks and they set my ride height at 26.5 Front and 27.25 rear per my request.

I am running CCW C10's 275 35 18 and 335 30 18 RA1's. No matter what front perch had to move down.

The only problem I'm having now is drilling adjustment holes since I have dynamat in the rear and it wont come up. I now have to remove shocks to drill from bottom, major PITA.



Maybe you just need to drill a small diameter guide hole...just take a guess where the adjustment hole should be, stick a piece of wire through the hole, then go under and look for it. Then go back and drill the adjustment hole relative to the guide hole, which now can be plugged with just about anything.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Those holes will be in close proximity of your gas tanks!!!
Pulling out your rear c/overs & drilling upwards through the
center shock base hole, with a long small diameter bit would be the wise thing to do.
Good luck.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by $$$frumnuttin'
[/B]

Maybe you just need to drill a small diameter guide hole...just take a guess where the adjustment hole should be, stick a piece of wire through the hole, then go under and look for it. Then go back and drill the adjustment hole relative to the guide hole, which now can be plugged with just about anything.
Ill give that a go!

Thanks for that advice.
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