I need Help
Now its not all the time. It is only present when the converter locks at 55MPH. It's bearable until 70 - 79 mph (the worst vibration) then at 80 mph it starts to go away.
Now I have ruled out the TT being bent because it only happens when its on cruise under load. I took some carb cleaner sprayed it around the whole manifold. I sprayed each injector and surrounding area to see if I had a vacuum leak up front and nothing.
So I am to my whits end. Any one can give me any advise let me know. I am so done right now I want to cry.
TIA
Now its not all the time. It is only present when the converter locks at 55MPH. It's bearable until 70 - 79 mph (the worst vibration) then at 80 mph it starts to go away.
Now I have ruled out the TT being bent because it only happens when its on cruise under load. I took some carb cleaner sprayed it around the whole manifold. I sprayed each injector and surrounding area to see if I had a vacuum leak up front and nothing.
So I am to my whits end. Any one can give me any advise let me know. I am so done right now I want to cry.
TIA
the DIC code are as follow:
P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency
This I know about because my MAF is out and I have a partial SD tune to limp around.
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B2265 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
Those are for the doors so I have no idea why they would come on.
These are all the codes that are been thrown at the moment.
Do you need help learning how to post a descriptive title so you will get people looking at the thread and helping? Many people ignore "I need help" posts.
Peter
Thanks for the advise will head warning next time.
at speed if it I hit the break it goes away or I push the gas to drop down to pick up a lower gear for passing it goes away. That's why I don't understand. Its just weird like I said between 55-69 its ok 70-79 I want to drive the car into a wall because it bothers me once i hit 80mph again its like it goes away.
Yet when am in neutral or slowing down it goes away. That's why i know its not the TT being bent or anything being bent for that matter. I think I am going ot have to bite the bullet and take the whole thing apart again and see what the hell is going on. Dam it.
If you don't verify FOR SURE that all the above is in proper order, any further diagnosis you receive from the forum might as well be a shot in the dark.
Yet when am in neutral or slowing down it goes away. That's why i know its not the TT being bent or anything being bent for that matter. I think I am going ot have to bite the bullet and take the whole thing apart again and see what the hell is going on. Dam it.

IF all the above things I mentioned are squared away, I would begin by checking torque tube bushings/bearings. you dont necessarily have to bend something to get a little wobble out of the TT. Bushings degrade over time, and a friend of mine just had his front bearing let go and took out all sorts of clutch/slave/pp with it.
Also, who did the transmission work? It could be that you're getting an odd vibration due to insufficient preload, or excessive endplay on the mainshaft, but it would have to be WAY wrong to feel it like you're describing.
Jack
Last edited by cptinjak; Sep 29, 2011 at 04:16 PM.
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I know there is some type of procedure for aligning/adjusting the torque tube on an auto. Did you do that?
The engine could be doing it if it had a miss, but I'd think you're at a high enough rpm that it wouldn't really cause a vibration and you'd likely know if it was missing at idle or at a lower rpm when the converter is locked. An engine problem should be the worst at the lowest speed where the converter would lock, say around 50 or 55mph in OD.
Peter











