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I have long tubes and an x-pipe. I know the service manual calls for removal of the intermediate pipe but, will I have to remove the driver side header to get to the bleed nut for the clutch?
I've used that method several times to swap the fluid regularly, thanks!!! I'm hoping that the long tubes aren't completely in the way even with the center section of the exhaust removed to get up there to the bleeder.
I'm not necessarily doing a fluid change. I was just saying that I regularly change the fluid to keep it clean and debris free. I'm wanting to just bleed the clutch hydraulics right now. I had the clutch and all appropriate corresponding components replaced less than 800 miles ago and now occasionally the clutch doesn't completely disengage and causes difficult shifts, so I'm sure there's a maybe some air in the system and am hoping to get it out.
I have long tubes and an x-pipe. I know the service manual calls for removal of the intermediate pipe but, will I have to remove the driver side header to get to the bleed nut for the clutch?
Thanks guys.
You'll at least have to disconnect it to get it out of the way I'd think. The bleeder valve on the slave is almost impossible to get to with the drivetrain in place...
Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, slave, TO bearing, pilot bearing and MC.
Well you hit all the bases there!
I'm assuming you broke the clutch in properly?
Did the process call for/measured for shims?
Did you go w/an adjustable M/C?
Lastly, have you tried a Mighty Vac to expell the air out of the line?
I sure tried. I did what the guys at Late Model Racecraft said to do. I'm not sure about what the process called for but, the guys at LMR are proper professionals and so it's my first instinct not to doubt their work. But if this bleeding doesn't resolve the minor inconvenience, I'll take it to them for a look. No adjustable, they said an OEM MC would do just fine for what I'm doing, little street driving, little drag action. Mighty Vac? No sir. Please enlighten me.