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Special LED flasher modules to eliminate hyperflash
Anyone tried the special LED flasher module in their C5 to eliminate hyperflash? If they work I find this a much more appealing solution than a special harness or resistors.
Are you experiencing hyper-flash right now? I just installed new LED tails in my '04 coupe and have only experienced hyper-flash while the car was off (testing the install). Once I got it up and running the lights were good to go. I've heard of other forum members experiencing this also... Luck of the draw I guess
I have not made the move yet to order the Switchback DRL bulbs yet due to the fact I really do not want to add a special harness or resistors. My hope is that I would not have the problem either, but if I did I wanted to have a plan in place and a special flasher that will work with regular or led bulbs would be great and you would never have to worry about it again.
You don't need a special harness. The $11 Autozone heavy duty flasher works just fine.
Remove the radio surround and knee bolster on the drivers side. Unplug the harness leading up to the hazard switch. Depin the pink and purple wires from the chassis side of the harness. Make yourself a few pigtails that connect from the harness to the new flasher. Plug the new flasher into the chassis wires you just depinned. PINK goes to the B terminal on the flasher, PURPLE goes to the L terminal on the flasher.
Test it before reassembling the car. Cost is just the cost of the flasher, some terminals and wire if you don't have them around. No-cut, no permanent mods, saves you $40+ to go for gas or taco bell.
You don't need a special harness. The $11 Autozone heavy duty flasher works just fine.
Remove the radio surround and knee bolster on the drivers side. Unplug the harness leading up to the hazard switch. Depin the pink and purple wires from the chassis side of the harness. Make yourself a few pigtails that connect from the harness to the new flasher. Plug the new flasher into the chassis wires you just depinned. PINK goes to the B terminal on the flasher, PURPLE goes to the L terminal on the flasher.
Test it before reassembling the car. Cost is just the cost of the flasher, some terminals and wire if you don't have them around. No-cut, no permanent mods, saves you $40+ to go for gas or taco bell.
You don't need a special harness. The $11 Autozone heavy duty flasher works just fine.
Remove the radio surround and knee bolster on the drivers side. Unplug the harness leading up to the hazard switch. Depin the pink and purple wires from the chassis side of the harness. Make yourself a few pigtails that connect from the harness to the new flasher. Plug the new flasher into the chassis wires you just depinned. PINK goes to the B terminal on the flasher, PURPLE goes to the L terminal on the flasher.
Test it before reassembling the car. Cost is just the cost of the flasher, some terminals and wire if you don't have them around. No-cut, no permanent mods, saves you $40+ to go for gas or taco bell.
I know, old thread...
But has anyone done this? Is there a write up? Or better yet, does anyone know where to get the connectors to make our own?
I did it, worked fine so far for 18 months and 10k miles and no reason it wont continue to work fine. What additional steps would you like in a write-up?
You don't need a special harness. The $11 Autozone heavy duty flasher works just fine.
Remove the radio surround and knee bolster on the drivers side. Unplug the harness leading up to the hazard switch. Depin the pink and purple wires from the chassis side of the harness. Make yourself a few pigtails that connect from the harness to the new flasher. Plug the new flasher into the chassis wires you just depinned. PINK goes to the B terminal on the flasher, PURPLE goes to the L terminal on the flasher.
Test it before reassembling the car. Cost is just the cost of the flasher, some terminals and wire if you don't have them around. No-cut, no permanent mods, saves you $40+ to go for gas or taco bell.
THX for the short write up...ive got one of these relays on its way from fleebay.....as far as the vendors go....i understand they have a business to run but 50-60$ is a little high for a 5$ relay and some wire
I did it, worked fine so far for 18 months and 10k miles and no reason it wont continue to work fine. What additional steps would you like in a write-up?
Thanks Arnie.
I assume T-taps wouldn't work since it would still be going thru the stock flasher? But IF I can get the wires removed from the molex connector I can reinsert and make it stock again.
Also, I seen people use two and three pin connectors, is one better over the other?
You don't need a special harness. The $11 Autozone heavy duty flasher works just fine.
Remove the radio surround and knee bolster on the drivers side. Unplug the harness leading up to the hazard switch. Depin the pink and purple wires from the chassis side of the harness. Make yourself a few pigtails that connect from the harness to the new flasher. Plug the new flasher into the chassis wires you just depinned. PINK goes to the B terminal on the flasher, PURPLE goes to the L terminal on the flasher.
Test it before reassembling the car. Cost is just the cost of the flasher, some terminals and wire if you don't have them around. No-cut, no permanent mods, saves you $40+ to go for gas or taco bell.
just to add....if anybody ends up buying a 3 pin relay the 3rd (e-pin) ends up on ground ....all kinds of grounding locations near there.
im asuming that the pink and purple wire on the other side of the harness just stay blank.....i hope cause that how i left mine...seems to work ok
i think the flasher he used is not available anymore...what puzzles me is he said dont cut the pink wire....wonder if what i did created any negative effect
Cut it, it doesn't matter. For some reason, I believe I was thinking it powered the hazards too but there is another non-switched feed for the hazards.