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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 02:32 PM
  #21  
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becuse im so lost i started engine and checked temp readings at header tubes with infared thermometer, 1,2,3,4 were about 200 deg, 5,6,7,8 at about 450. front four back four
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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Get a stethescope and listen to the injectors or use a Noid light to see if they are firing.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
becuse im so lost i started engine and checked temp readings at header tubes with infared thermometer, 1,2,3,4 were about 200 deg, 5,6,7,8 at about 450. front four back four
I'm confused. You are saying you had a 250 degree difference in temps across the engine?? The drivers side of the engine are cylinders 1,3,5,7, and the passenger is 2,4,6,8.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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yes, 1,2,3,4 front two on left and right, 5,6,7,8 back two on left and right. My mechanic friend thinks computer is malfunctioning
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
yes, 1,2,3,4 front two on left and right, 5,6,7,8 back two on left and right. My mechanic friend thinks computer is malfunctioning
I think there are 2 sets of fuses for the injectors-check your owners manual in the fuse section.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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both fuses are ok
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
yes, 1,2,3,4 front two on left and right, 5,6,7,8 back two on left and right. My mechanic friend thinks computer is malfunctioning
The headers off of cylinders 1,3,2,4 are colder than headers 5,7,6,8? Are you SURE you don't have any codes present? How are you reading your codes? Aftermarket OBDII scanner or onboard scanner through the DIC?
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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checking codes with a plug in obd scanner. and yes i keep getting maf code p0101
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
checking codes with a plug in obd scanner. and yes i keep getting maf code p0101
You'll get more out of the DIC than a generic scanner.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
You'll get more out of the DIC than a generic scanner.
Pull your codes directly from the DIC. Procedure below:

Courtesy of Bill Curlee


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
POST DTCS!!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #31  
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okay that was easy. I have 10-PCM P0101 c and A6-SCM B2860 h/c
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
okay that was easy. I have 10-PCM P0101 c and A6-SCM B2860 h/c
According to your first post, you have changed the MAF twice, and the code remains. What is the condition of the wiring? Have you check for 12 / 5 volts, and ground at the connector?
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #33  
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yes with key on i get 12 on right side, 0 on center, 5 on left.
with key off using ohms i get open line on left side, 1 on center pin, and 623 on right pin.
sorry, yes ground on center pin at 1 ohm

Last edited by jacksbadvert; Sep 28, 2011 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
yes with key on i get 12 on right side, 0 on center, 5 on left.
with key off using ohms i get open line on left side, 1 on center pin, and 623 on right pin.
sorry, yes ground on center pin at 1 ohm
For future, it's never a good idea, to check the resistance on a PCM leg (ignition on or not), unless you are checking a ground plane.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #35  
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Try and remove both exhaust manifolds before the cats. Get as much separation as possible and start it and see how it runs. Maybe both banks are plugged?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 09:11 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jnape
Try and remove both exhaust manifolds before the cats. Get as much separation as possible and start it and see how it runs. Maybe both banks are plugged?
??????
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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i would have to remove entire exhaust at headers, wouldnt that effect tune and how it runs?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jacksbadvert
i would have to remove entire exhaust at headers, wouldnt that effect tune and how it runs?
Yes.

Something doesn't make sense here; you're seeing cold exhaust off of bank two at the tailpipes and normal at bank one. But when you measure temps at the headers your seeing cold temps on the forward headers on both banks and normal temps the the rear headers on both banks... That makes absolutely no sense...

I would start by rechecking your temps. Measure the temperature at the tails, then measure the temperature at the cats then measure the temp at the pup-cats (if you have them) then measure the temp at the headers... Let your car heat up to operating temperature.

Also, did you ever verify that your right tails are blowing cold air instead of sucking air per post 16?

Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Sep 29, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #39  
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ok here we go again, rented noid light and bought stethescope. all injectors are recieving power... light flashing. not much change in how engine ran while switching from one injector to the next. all injectors sound like there opening... clicking sound thru scope, all sound very similar.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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two outlets off each muffler, one blows one sucks on each muffler. 100 degree diff. from front four to back four on headers.
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