Rear Stab. Bar links
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 21
From: Napa Ca
Found this out when I attempted to remove the links to replace the rear bar. Had to go to the store to get the correct torx size and ended up rounding off the torx stud. I need to get new links so I can remove the link from the other end and replace all the links.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The front links are a little more difficult to replace, due to the limited clearance near the links. I recommend using a ratcheting box wrench on the nuts, preferably one with a flex head, to make things easier. Also use the same size Torx bit, as on the rears, to keep the stud from turning.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 359
Likes: 7
From: St. Paul MN
There are also flats on the boot-side of the links to get a regular 18mm open-end wrench in there. The C6Z51 sway bars went on real easy with two choices to prevent spinning the shaft. It let me use the torque wrench, too. 
Todd
Todd
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Most places now offer the updated version for a replacement.
It has a 10mm hex head on the end as opposed to the recessed torx.
Couldn't save the picture from Ebay so here is the link to the picture:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C5-C6...item2a14078cac
It has a 10mm hex head on the end as opposed to the recessed torx.
Couldn't save the picture from Ebay so here is the link to the picture:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C5-C6...item2a14078cac
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Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16