Changing the transmission fluid and filter
10-04-2011, 05:40 PM
#2
Racer
Basic process. Drain plug gets approx 3 1/2 qts drop pan gets approx 1 more
replace filter gasket. You will need a pump to get the fluid back in fill till it seeps out of the fill plug.....the car must be level and running to check final level (no dip stick) then top it off till it seeps out ....the manual has far more info but this is just an idea... The fluid pump is a must...
replace filter gasket. You will need a pump to get the fluid back in fill till it seeps out of the fill plug.....the car must be level and running to check final level (no dip stick) then top it off till it seeps out ....the manual has far more info but this is just an idea... The fluid pump is a must...
10-05-2011, 08:51 AM
#4
Racer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution
When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the check/fill plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Place a drain pan under the transmission.
Clean any dirt from around the transmission check/fill plug.
Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug and allow the fluid to drain.
Support the transmission oil pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan bolts.
Loosely reinstall the fluid check/fill plug.
Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry gently in order to loosen the pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan.
Drain the remaining fluid from the oil pan.
Important
Note the position of the filter before removal to aid in installation.
Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.
Remove the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.
Discard the seal.
Inspect the transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Inspect the transmission fluid filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis:
Clutch material
Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear
Steel particles
Important
Remove ALL traces of old gasket material from the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces.
Clean the oil pan gasket mating surfaces, on both the transmission case and the transmission oil pan, with solvent and air dry.
Installation Procedure
Tools Required
J 36850 Transmission Assembling Lubricant (Transjel™)
Coat the new filter seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent.
Install the new filter seal into the transmission case. Gently tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket.
Install the new oil filter into position as noted during removal.
Inspect the oil pan bolts and washers to determine if the conical washers are reversed.
Reuse the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are NOT reversed (1).
Replace the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are reversed (2).
Install the new oil pan gasket to the oil pan sealing surface.
Position the oil pan to the transmission case and support the oil pan.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten
Tighten the transmission oil pan bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N·m (97 lb in).
Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug.
Fill the transmission with DEXRON®-III automatic transmission fluid through the check/fill plug hole until fluid begins to pour out, then install the check/fill plug hand-tight.
Complete filling the transmission with fluid to the proper level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Tighten the transmission fluid check/fill plug. Tighten
Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution
When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the check/fill plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Place a drain pan under the transmission.
Clean any dirt from around the transmission check/fill plug.
Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug and allow the fluid to drain.
Support the transmission oil pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan bolts.
Loosely reinstall the fluid check/fill plug.
Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry gently in order to loosen the pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan.
Drain the remaining fluid from the oil pan.
Important
Note the position of the filter before removal to aid in installation.
Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.
Remove the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.
Discard the seal.
Inspect the transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Inspect the transmission fluid filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis:
Clutch material
Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear
Steel particles
Important
Remove ALL traces of old gasket material from the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces.
Clean the oil pan gasket mating surfaces, on both the transmission case and the transmission oil pan, with solvent and air dry.
Installation Procedure
Tools Required
J 36850 Transmission Assembling Lubricant (Transjel™)
Coat the new filter seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent.
Install the new filter seal into the transmission case. Gently tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket.
Install the new oil filter into position as noted during removal.
Inspect the oil pan bolts and washers to determine if the conical washers are reversed.
Reuse the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are NOT reversed (1).
Replace the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are reversed (2).
Install the new oil pan gasket to the oil pan sealing surface.
Position the oil pan to the transmission case and support the oil pan.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten
Tighten the transmission oil pan bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N·m (97 lb in).
Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug.
Fill the transmission with DEXRON®-III automatic transmission fluid through the check/fill plug hole until fluid begins to pour out, then install the check/fill plug hand-tight.
Complete filling the transmission with fluid to the proper level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Tighten the transmission fluid check/fill plug. Tighten
10-05-2011, 12:30 PM
#6
Race Director
http://www.toquez06.com/
scroll down to the bottom of the page..... and search function is your friend.
scroll down to the bottom of the page..... and search function is your friend.
10-05-2011, 05:01 PM
#7
Drifting
When changing fluid last time I put a B&M finned aluminum pan on.
No mater how I do it, I always get transmission fluid all over the place when changing fluid. The C5 transmission pan has a fill/level plug in the side which allows draining of fluid which flows back to the pan after shutdown, so the total volume of splurch is thereby reduced. Nonetheless, when lowering the still mostly full pan, an inadvisable tilt will result in a spill.
Doing this kind of work with the car on jack stands- lots of squirming on an old back. The tool you need is always somewhere you can't see it, like between your legs or just out of reach above your head. Or on the bench. Have your tools in an easy to reach location.
The C5 automatic transmission has no combination fill tube/dip stick tube. Once the filter and pan are on, you have to use a hand pump of some kind to fill the transmission. Unlike a manual transmission which takes several pints, you need to get seven or eight quarts into the automatic (5 with a stock pan). I used an "oil suction gun" as the hand pump.
After filling to the point where there is fluid dribbling out the fill hole, the engine is then started (car still on jack stands) and the transmission cycled through the gears, foot on the brake so that the transmission can be filled AGAIN. Fluid is drawn up into the works and held there as long as the engine is running.
You then select "TRANS FLUID" on the DIC and monitor transmission temperature as the engine idles with the car on jack stands. When the fluid hits 122 degrees F, open the fill/ drain plug and allow the excess fluid to spill out, (new volume created by the increased fluid temperature). Getting the plug back in is a challenge, as it is next to an exhaust pipe, with about 2" clearance. A check of the DIC with the plug back in indicates 187 degrees. You can shut down the engine ONLY after the fill/ level plug is in- or face a cascade of hot fluid erupting out the open hole.
One would almost think that the fluid loop to the radiator is a transmission heater, not a cooler.
Cleanup the remaining fluid, off the jack stands and done. Several big rags and half a roll of paper towels. Next time the blurch will be smaller, because the new B&M transmission pan has an actual drain plug.
No mater how I do it, I always get transmission fluid all over the place when changing fluid. The C5 transmission pan has a fill/level plug in the side which allows draining of fluid which flows back to the pan after shutdown, so the total volume of splurch is thereby reduced. Nonetheless, when lowering the still mostly full pan, an inadvisable tilt will result in a spill.
Doing this kind of work with the car on jack stands- lots of squirming on an old back. The tool you need is always somewhere you can't see it, like between your legs or just out of reach above your head. Or on the bench. Have your tools in an easy to reach location.
The C5 automatic transmission has no combination fill tube/dip stick tube. Once the filter and pan are on, you have to use a hand pump of some kind to fill the transmission. Unlike a manual transmission which takes several pints, you need to get seven or eight quarts into the automatic (5 with a stock pan). I used an "oil suction gun" as the hand pump.
After filling to the point where there is fluid dribbling out the fill hole, the engine is then started (car still on jack stands) and the transmission cycled through the gears, foot on the brake so that the transmission can be filled AGAIN. Fluid is drawn up into the works and held there as long as the engine is running.
You then select "TRANS FLUID" on the DIC and monitor transmission temperature as the engine idles with the car on jack stands. When the fluid hits 122 degrees F, open the fill/ drain plug and allow the excess fluid to spill out, (new volume created by the increased fluid temperature). Getting the plug back in is a challenge, as it is next to an exhaust pipe, with about 2" clearance. A check of the DIC with the plug back in indicates 187 degrees. You can shut down the engine ONLY after the fill/ level plug is in- or face a cascade of hot fluid erupting out the open hole.
One would almost think that the fluid loop to the radiator is a transmission heater, not a cooler.
Cleanup the remaining fluid, off the jack stands and done. Several big rags and half a roll of paper towels. Next time the blurch will be smaller, because the new B&M transmission pan has an actual drain plug.
05-06-2018, 01:16 PM
#8
Fluid running out the inspection/Drain hole
Gent's, I backed my C5 out of the garage yesterday and immediately discovered that my transmission cooler had blew a hose off. I shut if off and fixed the hose. Now I'm filling the transmission through the inspection/fill port on the side of the pan. It took about a quart and a half before it started weeping out. I put the plug back in, started the car put it in drive for about a minute, Shut it off and went through the process again to add fluid. One it started weeping again i put the bolt back in and started the car again. Put it Drive for about a minute and then shut it off again. This time when i pulled the plug fluid came rushing out. It almost seems as much as i have put in has come back out !
So what am i doing wrong? Based on the mess in my garage and drive i can't imagine that I've put in as much as leaked out.
Advice
So what am i doing wrong? Based on the mess in my garage and drive i can't imagine that I've put in as much as leaked out.
Advice
The following users liked this post:
Bochadley (05-06-2018)
05-06-2018, 02:12 PM
#10
Thanks! Smoken1
Read thread on fill procedure
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...uid-level.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...uid-level.html
Well I'm a Gallon in and about to start Gallon #2. Counterintuitive that the engine has to be running to do the procedure but it works!
Thanks for the info Smokin1!
Last edited by Bochadley; 05-06-2018 at 02:32 PM.
09-03-2019, 04:38 PM
#12
Instructor
Know this is an old thread and probably a stupid question but the dropping of the pan, replacement of gasket and filter and refilling of fluid until it comes out of drain hole is done without the car running? And the car is started brought up to temperature and cycled through the gears to again fill until it leaks out of the drain hole?
The following users liked this post:
Doss13 (01-28-2020)
