When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
did mine last month......in about an hour....used a lift and for the front removed tires and moved the assembly..(rotor) for easy access.....one wrench on back and on on front..
no problem
Did they come with new nuts? The nuts should go on easy until the stud is almost right through and then they require wrenching the rest of the way. They still shouldn't be too hard to turn on though.
I have a set of C6 take-offs that look almost the same as the ones in that pic but they have a 8mm hex instead of the Torx hole. I just checked and the nuts off the old plastic end links look exactly the same and will fit these no problem.
If you have some aftermarket link then maybe you're trying to force the old nut onto the new link and they have a SAE thread and not a metric thread.
I used the Moog's and didn't have an issue. I did find the ones on the front endlink hard to tighten on the car but remove the sway bar and it is easy.
Do these have grease fittings?
What is your overall impression to these?
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Mark original position of sway bars and loosen the sway bar mounts quite a bit. Then install and lightly snug up the end links. Make sure the end links are on the same thread count on each side and front and back of the links, very important. Then tighten the sway bar mounts back up to spec. Make sure the wheels are square, (Front). Then snug up the links!
Helps to have Leprkon and C6 Batmobile show you how to do it! Now I know! So do you!
If you having problem with just one,maybe the nut is crossed threaded. I've chaged them in a couple of C5 using GM and the stud is threaded all the way down. There is no way you couldn't tighten them down due to thead issues. Post a picture!
Do these have grease fittings?
What is your overall impression to these?
No grease fitting on these.
I also just installed the newer updated version ( GM LINK, Genuine GM
part# 20822934) with the 10 mm hex ends as opposed to the recessed torx fitting and they are fine. Although they did get a little snug the closer you got to bottoming out the nut but they still went on with no problem.
the studs do look very long---You must use 2 wrenches as said earlier--OR use a small wrench on the hex end of the stud-- Best is to take the sway bar COMPLETELY OFF--
The threads go all the way to the beginning of the link shoulder--so they shouldn't botton out when tightening--If the stud hex end is hitting something and there is a clearance issue that's something else--remedy would be to cut-off the end about 1/2-3/4"
I just ordered some replacement links from GM for the rear on my 99. I thought this would be easy but after reading what you had to say maybe I will take it to a dealer with a corvette mechanic. I just went through column lock hell with this car and don't want any more surprises. Thanks for sharing.
I just ordered some replacement links from GM for the rear on my 99. I thought this would be easy but after reading what you had to say maybe I will take it to a dealer with a corvette mechanic. I just went through column lock hell with this car and don't want any more surprises. Thanks for sharing.
it's really easy to do,I never heard of these issue unless it was crossed threaded on installation and thy were forced on.
I didn't have any trouble installing mine on the front. The link will just slip in with the car on jack stands and the suspension hanging. I just held the link side of the stud with an 18mm wrench and hit the nuts with an impact but you could use a rachet as easily.