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8VETTE7, I started down the path of checking the 'extended list' of items to see what might be causing the Pull Key message (even after the CLB installed). I checked the battery and the result was 12.59V without a load. That meets the minimum of 12.5V, but on the edge. I plan to check the last of the body grounds, but for what it's worth, they all were good for those I did check. Two more to go but for now, I am assuming this is not the issue. I will finish these up next. For kicks, I then started down the fuse test. Under Hood Fuse Center:
ENG ING1 FUSE# 19 12.2V
INJR 2 FUSE# 18 12.2V
THROTCONT FUSE# 17 12.1V
INJR 1 FUSE# 22 12.2V
PCM FUSE# 16 12.2V
F/PMP FUSE# 13 .022 --> Instrument Panel Fuse block
BTSI BU Fuse# 21 0V -->
BCM 13 Fuse# 22 .25V -->
IPC Fuse# 19 .25V -->
All should be a about 12V with the key in the ON position. I will do a recheck on these. Note that I actually had to pull the fuse out to test (one side had no voltage while the other contact had a reading...makes sense). If the recheck comes back with the same results, I will finish up the ground test and recheck the battery. If these are good, then the ignition might be the issue. Stay tuned.
Likely step 2 will be that they send you an LMC5-R to try. That usually works for those cars like yours when the LMC5 will not. But on occasion it also will not solve the problem. Then they send you the 5 wire LMC5 that seems to always work when the other two products do not.....
Good luck with your venture..........
Your right on 8VETTE7....I talked to Richard yesterday and told him what my car was doing and he is sending me the LMC5-R just like you diagnosed....waiting to get it and try...to be continued! Thanks for your help, Fred