hi,

so about two weeks ago i had the CLB installed. today i get the "pull key, wait 10 sec" message. i turned off the car, waited a bit and started it again without any problems.

i have a code "C1288 H" which doesn't even exist on the list of DIC codes that i have in my glove box. i googled a bit and it turns out it has to do with the steering wheel sensor.

i assume i shouldn't have to worry about anything down the road since i do have the CLB installed, correct?

 

What year car? Did you remove the K Harness if so equiped when you did the CLB?

Both my cars have gone 3 years after the CLB with no pull key events.

 

clean the security pellet on the key with some rubbing alcohol


The C1288 code is for a faulty steering wheel position sensor. Replace that sensor before that AH sends you into a wall.......

 

It would depend on if the car had a recall and what recall was performed. As mentioned, did you have to remove the K-harness? If I read correctly, the car started and then had the "pull key& wait 10 sec"? If so, did you try to drive it, as it may have the 2mph cutoff when you would start to drive. There are a couple of fuses that can be pulled for 30 seconds to help remedy this but off hand I do no recall which ones.

It would not be the key as that does not show the “pull key, wait 10 sec" and the car would not have started.

 

Don't know much about the k-harness since I don't have one...however, I do have a CLB. I've gotten this message twice in 5 years....even with the CLB. So that tells me it has nothing to do with the column lock module. I personally think it has to do with one of the control modules not communicating.

 

I have had the message twice in 8 years. I both cases it was a warning that he battery was about to die.

 

This would have nothing to do with your steering position sensor code, but your CLB issue could be the CL relay. It's the one to the right above the BCM in the passenger's foot well. My CL relay went bad and I couldn't figure out why my CLB wouldn't work. I replaced that relay and everything is good again.

Agree with previous poster - if you have a Steering Wheel Posision Sensor error get it fixed IMMEDIATELY. Until you do, turn off the Traction Control and Active Handling. Strange and bad things can and will happen if the steering position sensor is messed up. A friend of mine ended up totaling his '01Z, crusing along in 6th gear the car spun out without warning.

 

This

I get the message all the time even with a CLB. I usually pull the key out and turn it over and then the problem goes away. I really need a new key, I think mine is just plain ole worn out.

 

8VETTE7, thanks for all the great posts you have had in the past. Very helpful for a newbie like me. Purchased my first vette about a year ago (1997 C5 6M) that came with many changes, but low mileage. Finally had my boyhood dream come true with the vette Sure enough, about two months ago, I was getting the following symptoms: start the car, it would immediately stall; start the car and as I went to move, it felt like the fuel was getting cut off and it would stall, then the 'service the steering lock' message. I did the CLB and was able to break it loose to install the bypass (had to tap the underside of the column some). There was no K-harness bypass installed. However, after installation, I have been getting the 'Pull key' message consistently. The car starts fine after the second attempt every time...very repeatable. This tells me it's not related to the key. I did the usual followup in pulling fuses and even disconnecting the battery to reset the BCM, but no luck. I also checked for the added relay in the ckt by the foot panel, but there was none. After further looking thru these stories, I decided last night to check all my grounds. All were in excellent shape (given the car only had 9000 miles). Since all this, I continued to dig deeper and found what was called the 'mother of all Column Lock threads' and it was totally enlightenment; especially the video about the batteries in these cars. The battery in the car did not meet the EXACT specs on the required reserve (I was ignorant at the time when I purchased the battery), but very close. The battery is one and a half years old. So, here is the question. Can all these issues (e.g., the stalling, the column lock, the pull key) be related to one root cause...a dying battery?

 

I installed a clb in May 2013, and I still got the wait message. Called complianceparts and they were very very very helpful. It appears that my 1999 was only a handful that the 4-wire clb would not work. They sent me a 5-wire clb and that solved the problem. It worked perfectly after that, no more codes. I lied, I said I installed it....but really it was my 56 year old wife who did it,since I could not see that close.

 

Thanks 8VETTE7. I am interested in chatting with you; I have to imagine the list is not too long and I'm ready and willing. I really want to get this puppy right. This is now my every day driver, so it is a PIA. My concern is that this inconvenience might become a permanent issue. I know that I should just replace the battery. The heat in Texas is really tough on car batteries down here and they only last about 3-4 years. My experience with my vehicles has been more like 3 years. BTW, after I do all this, I will post a long note to explain these other actions and perhaps help others that still might be struggling with this issue. Again, I appreciate the coaching and look forward to chatting with you.

 

lmao

 

Thanks Tomm1011. I appreciate the feedback. I'm sure that is another possibility that needs to go on my list of things to consider....you just never know with electronics.

 

I am currently awaiting an answer from compliance parts on my installed LMC5 in my 1998 auto trans C5....it still gives the "pull key wait 10 secs" code, checked all connections and disconnected the ground cable several times....still getting it....I'll let you know when I get an answer/cure.....Fred

 

Talked to Richard at Compliance yesterday trying some of his suggestions and keeping record of what I experience...will get back with him on Monday and get his fix from there he is very helpful and knowledgeable on the column lock ordeal, Fred

 

That was my first thought as well.

 

In April 2012 I had the steering column lock and could not drive forward, only back wards. Had to have the corvette towed and the Harness replaced. That seem to work. Then in September 2012 I was backing out of a parking place and then shifted into drive and the corvette stalled and again the steering column locked. Once again I had it towed to a different dealer ship and replaced the hardness. Now this week end I was driving the corvette (only drove it 4 times so far this year) I was on a cruise and waiting for the next car to pull out and when I step on the gas, the car stalled out. "Put key and wait 10 seconds was the message I got". I pulled the key waited and put the key in restarted the corvette, stepped on the gas and it stalled. I did not gun the corvette or step down hard. I didn't have the distance to do any of that. Later in the afternoon, I was backing up and the corvette stalled and again the message ; "Put key and wait 10 seconds was the message I got". I pulled the key waited and put the key in restarted the corvette and put it in reverse and started to back up again and the same thing happen. I pulled the key and waiting 60 seconds. Once again restarted the corvette and continued to back out of the drive way. When I then put the corvette into drive it stalled and again I got the same message. Today the same thing happened 4 times. We put a new battery in the corvette this July 2013. I had planned to take the corvette with me to MN on Vacation next week. I have decided to leave it at home. I don't trust driving it out of town any more. I have a C5 - 1998. Any help or idea's would be great. This year is the first it started stalling when backing up.

 

Well, got tied up moving the kids to college but finally got around to checking some additional items. First off, the battery has the following: 12.59V without a load. For kicks, I did a test with the ground hooked up and it came in at 12.43V (with load). My sense is the approximate 12.6V should be ok based on a minimum of 12.5V, but obviously on the edge. I also did the fuse checks and strange enough, with the key in the on position, all the fuses in the engine bay checked out fine except for F/PMP FUSE# 13 (had no voltage). In addition, the fuses in the passenger side foot panel were all near zero with the key in the on position:
BTSI BU Fuse#21 0V,0V (each side;had to pull them out to test socket)
BCM 13 Fuse#22 0V, .25V
IPC Fuse#19 0V, .25V
I will take the next step on diagnostics tonight. Stay tuned.

 

This is probably the singular most informative post I've ever seen on the K-harness debacle. (It would be really nice if someone could prune the sticky threads on that note)

When I got my car it had the K-harness, but it had been unhooked. Of course I did not know this until the CL relay started to act dodgy, and I tore into things. So essentially the car had racked up about 90k miles running on the stock electronics. I threw the K-harness in the trash after first confirming it didn't work. Then I cleaned the contacts on the CL relay which got me running again. And I ordered an LMC5 from Compliance Parts. Hooked it up and have been fine ever since. The nice thing about the LMC5 is it mimics all necessary signals right at the BCM so you can actually unhook the CL relay.

 

I took the '97 C5 MN6 w/CLB to Woodward (go every year, awesome event , but typically take a different car).

Anyway, EVERY time I turned off the car and then came back to restart it (anywhere from a couple of minutes to an hour) I got the "pull key and wait 10 seconds..." message.

Probably happened at least half a dozen times. If I ignored the message, the car would start but fuel would cut off at 2 mph. If I obeyed the message, it always started up and ran with no issues.

Car has about 33k on it. I have owned it 3 years, put almost 4k on it myself, and NEVER had this happen before. I installed the CLB several months ago as a preventative measure, but never had any issues after installation.

My only thought is that heat soak got to something (a lot of idling in traffic - if you have been to the Dream Cruise, you know what I mean).

Next morning, I went out to the garage and turned the ignition on and got no message. I did not start it or drive it (didn't have the time). I will try to get it out and drive it soon to see what happens.

Any thoughts?