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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Default Frost King Mod

I am having my bezel re-worked to fit a double din radio. I thought while my console was out I would apply the Frost King insulation that so many people have done on here. What I cant find (and I searched) but I have to belive is on here is a step by step about taking out the carpet. I have had the seats out before and currently have the whole console off, but I would like to know how to get the carpet out. anyone know where to find that?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Default Frost king install

Ive the the ENTIRE inside (Front) and tunnel with frost king. Remove the seats, remove the door sill covers front and rear and the passengers section and then the drivers section will lift out on individual sections.
The frost King stuff is an easy install



Dont to forget to add the foil covered bubbel wrap to the high heat areas and cut out all the areas where the seat buns touch the tunnel!!



In the video below,, you can see the frost king on the under side of the tunnel! Taken at NIGHT 21:45 in the heat of rebuilding the drive train



I also did it in my 71 Coupe!! Made a SIGNIFICANT difference!!!!
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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explaing the foil covered bubble wrap. Is that over the Frost King, Under, or instead of? Installed with double sided tape or another way?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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YES!! Its over top of the installed Frost King. I found out the HARD WAY that,, anywhere the seat bun touches the tunnel, ELIMINATE the bubble wrap in that area. Just use a raiser blade and cut it out. Move the seat fully rearward and fully forward. Anywhere the BUN touches the tunnel area, cut out the bubble wrap in that area. The remaining frost king under the bubble wrap will be fine.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
YES!! Its over top of the installed Frost King. I found out the HARD WAY that,, anywhere the seat bun touches the tunnel, ELIMINATE the bubble wrap in that area. Just use a raiser blade and cut it out. Move the seat fully rearward and fully forward. Anywhere the BUN touches the tunnel area, cut out the bubble wrap in that area. The remaining frost king under the bubble wrap will be fine.

Mr. Curlee.....which frost king do I use? thickness, adhesive/non adhesive, etc. What is the purpose of the bubble on high areas & if you have to cut out the bubble at the seat buns, why even put it there? Also on the console, will this make the console sit higher and will the bezel fit as it should originally? I have mine out for a double din also. Just curious before I get started. Please overlook stupid questions.

Thanks,
tracer1
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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Very nice thread, I too am interested in the proper procedure to dissemble the interior.
Bill, thanks for those install photos! They are very helpful, do you have any others?
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tracer1
Mr. Curlee.....which frost king do I use? thickness, adhesive/non adhesive, etc. What is the purpose of the bubble on high areas & if you have to cut out the bubble at the seat buns, why even put it there? Also on the console, will this make the console sit higher and will the bezel fit as it should originally? I have mine out for a double din also. Just curious before I get started. Please overlook stupid questions.

Thanks,
tracer1
Frost King Duct Insulation. 1/8" thick, self adhesive / foil faced

http://www.frostking.com/Lowes/FoamF...Insulation.htm

Reflectix

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CH8Q8wIwCg

Both types can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware

The addition of the bubble wrap stuff just adds additional insulating property's . The reason for not stopping with the bubble stuff before the seat is because you want the full benefit of of the insulation. If you have taken a long ride in your car on a hot summer day,even with the AC on that tunnel gets HOT.
The more you have covering the tunnel the better.
You should have no problem putting anything back together because both the foam and bubble insulation will compress.

I was skeptical as well until i did my interior. I'm now a firm believer in doing this to ANY Vette interior !

Last edited by SG Lou; Nov 6, 2011 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks SG Lou for the info. Need to do mine. The console gets hot enough to warm a can of soup on it. I already have a roll of frostking, do you know how many rolls it will take to do the job also of the bubble wrap?

Thanks,
tracer1
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Thanks Lou

When I put the Reflectix on the complete tunnel,, Over top the Frost King, The seat buns rubbed too hard on the carpet. To elevate that issue,, I moved the seats thru out there complete range of motion and marked it with blue painters tape. I removed ONLY the Reflectix from the areas where the seat bun touched the Reflectix.. Rubbing problem SOLVED!!!!

EVERYTHING else on the tunnel is covered with Frost king and Reflectix. The second layer of Reflectix makes a HEAT TRANSFER reduction.. NO DOUBT ABOUT IT!
The small area that you remove for the seat bun contact area shouldn't matter.

The Frost King has an adhesive backing. Its a NON PERMANENT Adhesive and the stuff can be removed after its installed if desired or necessary.

If the addition of the frost King and Reflectix didn't work and didn't make a difference, I wouldn't recommend it. Hell, my wife even complemented how it performed without me asking for input.

I AGREE!! I have zero console alignment issues and I covered everything!! You can cut out the areas where the console actually mounts. All the other pinch points will just compress the stuff down to very little thickness.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 6, 2011 at 10:04 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Thanks Bill & Lou for clarifying all this for me. Will be doing mine in the coming week.

Again thanks to both of you.

tracer1
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tracer1
Thanks SG Lou for the info. Need to do mine. The console gets hot enough to warm a can of soup on it. I already have a roll of frostking, do you know how many rolls it will take to do the job also of the bubble wrap?

Thanks,
tracer1
I purchased 5 rolls of the Frost King and 1 roll of the Reflectix and used every bit of the Frost King.
I had an issue with every piece of rug in my car. The dealer did an excellent job at masking the scent of cigar smoke. Seems like this 60 some year old previous owner loved to smoke cigars in his car. So I pulled EVERY THING out of my car to clean it. I also had an issue with a small water leak to fix. So while the interior was gutted I covered just about everything with the Frost King.

Last edited by SG Lou; Nov 6, 2011 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Thanks Lou

When I put the Reflectix on the complete tunnel,, Over top the Frost King, The seat buns rubbed too hard on the carpet. To elevate that issue,, I moved the seats thru out there complete range of motion and marked it with blue painters tape. I removed ONLY the Reflectix from the areas where the seat bun touched the Reflectix.. Rubbing problem SOLVED!!!!

EVERYTHING else on the tunnel is covered with Frost king and Reflectix. The second layer of Reflectix makes a HEAT TRANSFER reduction.. NO DOUBT ABOUT IT!
The small area that you remove for the seat bun contact area shouldn't matter.

The Frost King has an adhesive backing. Its a NON PERMANENT Adhesive and the stuff can be removed after its installed if desired or necessary.

If the addition of the frost King and Reflectix didn't work and didn't make a difference, I wouldn't recommend it. Hell, my wife even complemented how it performed without me asking for input.

I AGREE!! I have zero console alignment issues and I covered everything!! You can cut out the areas where the console actually mounts. All the other pinch points will just compress the stuff down to very little thickness.

BC
Your Welcome Bill.............and I'm sorry If I jumped in on your gig here.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SG Lou
Your Welcome Bill.............and I'm sorry If I jumped in on your gig here.
SORRY???? Man,,,,,,,,,,, you rock!
Every bit of amplifying info on this subject helps! Your input is appreciated and welcome!

I am not the INVENTOR of the Frost King Insulation Mod but,, like YOU,, have added significantly to its validity and performance.

Bill
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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Hats off to both Lou and Bill for some great detail on this mod, pictures and links for purchase and everything!
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SG Lou

I was skeptical as well until i did my interior. I'm now a firm believer in doing this to ANY Vette interior !
Let me rephrase that !
I wouldn't go as far as doing this mod to an NCRS Top Flight or Bloomington Gold Winner

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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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Ive been to those events!

Anybody that can KEEP their C5 in the GARAGE and apply coat after coat of ZAINO each week and only break it out for a show,,,,,,,,,,,,, HAS ISSUES!

I drive the F^$@ out of mine! When it breaks or needs body work, it gets it. If I want to intall more insulation, I install it.

My engine is HIGHLY modified and I LOVE it!

Drive that Bitch like it owes you MONEY! NO GARAGE QUEENS HERE!!!

NCRS Not for me!

Bill
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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You need six rolls, five will cover most of it but you'll need to do some creative patching
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Done this mod,Love it. A cheap one to do,but take alittle effort. I even did the rear and the rear fender liners on my 98. Even with the B&B Bullet,it was very quite. Will be doing it to my 99 project car.
I as Bill,drive the crapp out of my babies,then put them away wet.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by gottraction
Very nice thread, I too am interested in the proper procedure to dissemble the interior.
Bill, thanks for those install photos! They are very helpful, do you have any others?
I completed this mod yesterday afternoon. I never did find a step by step on disassembling the interior, but it was pretty easy.

On the front:
you need a 10mm deep socket to get to the two bolts holding the pedal stop under the gas pedal and the two bolts holding the dead pedal. (I didnt have a deep 10mm so I just kind of figured it out.)

you pull the little plastic cotter pins on the base of the seat mounts then one bolt on each seat corner (I think it was 3/4). Unplug the electric seat cable and pull out the seat. This is way easier if you have the targa off.

Take the fuse cover out (passenger floor board). it just clips in like the rear compartment covers.

lastly pry up the door trim with your hand and the carpets will just lift out.

In the rear of the coupe it was way easier actually. you just pull all the clip in pannels and it basicly lifts out. two wingnuts hold in the sides with the hatch lights but no tools are necessary to remove the rear.

Sound seemed dramaticly decreased. I havent gotten it up to temp yet to test the heat, but I used the reflectix heat sheilding so I imagine it will perform perfectly. This took all afternoon, but it was super easy to do.

Last edited by BigRobDsp; Nov 7, 2011 at 11:56 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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So would this help to cover my rear tub to help with the resonance from my bullets? Was going to put a divider plus cover the rear tub as a cam is going in soon.
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