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Idler Pulley question

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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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Default Idler Pulley question

I am in the process of fixing the most annoying problem in the history of our beloved C5s and that is the chirp of insanity!!! I have located and found the part numbers for both tensioner pulley assembly's at rock auto parts (89339 for the ac line, 89337 for the main line) Now my problem is its not real clear on which IDLER PULLEY goes where, i know they are both smooth because i can see them, but i can not for the life of me find one that says ac and one that says main.. My question is has anyone replaced their IDLER PULLEYS and if so where did you buy and WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER??!?!? Any help like always is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance guys
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:00 PM
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Finding a belt/pulley noise can be a PITA. Also check for a wobbling harmonic balancer. Best way to isolate belt noise is to remove the main belt and start the engine. If the noise is still there then it is in the A/C system. Remove both belts and spin pulley and see what makes noise. Use a stethoscope and listen to each component. Replace the belts with a Gatorback.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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I just finished replacing my main belt drive idler pulley with a duralast #231059 for $18. the other idler pulley cost $17. I don't know the differece. I got them at Auto zone. I had to place a copper washer between the dust sheild and the pulley so that it would turn freely after I tightened it down. I used a 7/16" from lowes, it came in a four pack for a buck.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Check the AC tensioner. It is in a tough location but the pivot bolt is known to squeek. There is a new design tensioner for this application because of the problems on the pivot wear.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 11:58 PM
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Well I replaced the top tensioner pulley, idler pulley, ac idler pulley and putting my bolt back in for the ac tensioner pulley the damn bolt broke of leaving about an 1/8th inch sticking out from my block... Yay! Just mother freaking great, good thing is it's winter and I don't really need my ac but I still have to get it removed!!! But hell at least that god awful squeak is gone
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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Default Almost the same thing happened to me

Originally Posted by KY Brian
I just finished replacing my main belt drive idler pulley with a duralast #231059 for $18. the other idler pulley cost $17. I don't know the differece. I got them at Auto zone. I had to place a copper washer between the dust sheild and the pulley so that it would turn freely after I tightened it down. I used a 7/16" from lowes, it came in a four pack for a buck.
Did my Idler pulley also. The $18 one will bind as the clearance is VERY SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT from the $65 GM part. Found a washer in my junk parts bin that was cone shaped and worked perfectly. Kept the original GM dust shield in place too. Gotta improvise or pay double plus.

BIGHANK
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Without the ability to run and look real quick for you, I think the serpentine pulley has a guide edge on it for the belt to sit inside of. The AC pulley is smooth with no guide.
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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I bought my idler pulley for the main serpentine belt from Rock Auto
below is the belt and pulley part number

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2001 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 5.7L V8
GOODYEAR 4060798 Belt $ 18.31 $ 0.00 1 $ 18.31
GOODYEAR 49283 Belt Tensioner $ 53.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 53.79
Shipping Ground (1 to 5 business days) $ 8.15
Order Total $ 80.25
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What's up with these A/c idler pulleys...try to replace mine tonight and new Duralast contained no washers....can I just put the pulley over the arbor and then bolt it down no washers or find a few washers for both sides?

So I gave up tonight and just cut the A/C belt off...looks like will be runnning tomorrow no a/c belt till have time to replace both belts.
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