Tips on removing axle nut?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
From: Mukwonago Wi
Tips on removing axle nut?
I tried to lube the splines on my axles today because they are making noise. Problem is, I could not get the nuts to budge. I was feeling like I was near braking the breaker bar. The just would not budge. Any tips?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 34
From: King George Virginia
I used the jack handel on the end of the breaker bar. It will come loose. Remember these are one time use nutts. The new replacement ones will be a different size also unless they have been changed before. You can find the socketts for these at Auto Zone for about $11.00 apiece.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
You should be able to find the nut at a good auto supply store, such as NAPA etc.
Do not over tighten the nut on re install. Bring to proper torque with torque wrench. Torque @ 118 lb.ft. The nut requires a 32 mm deep well socket.
I have reused the axle spindle nut before w/out buying a new one but... I check different things on the car quite often to include the axle spindle nut.
Good luck.
Do not over tighten the nut on re install. Bring to proper torque with torque wrench. Torque @ 118 lb.ft. The nut requires a 32 mm deep well socket.
I have reused the axle spindle nut before w/out buying a new one but... I check different things on the car quite often to include the axle spindle nut.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 45
From: Toronto Ontario
There's no movement taking place in these splines! The nut locks the CV shaft tight against the hub. If there's noise, it can't be coming from the splines unless the nuts are loose. The only need to grease the splines is to aid in disassembly.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
From: Mukwonago Wi
I agree with you 100% on that. It makes logical sense. But why are so many users getting rid of the clunk after they do this?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
I used the jack handel on the end of the breaker bar. It will come loose. Remember these are one time use nutts. The new replacement ones will be a different size also unless they have been changed before. You can find the socketts for these at Auto Zone for about $11.00 apiece.
For better leverage, I use an 18" pipe as an extention when more leverage is needed.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
Likes: 9,799
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
I had the exact same problem on my 86.
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 45
From: Toronto Ontario
Actually there can be movement in the splines. That has been a problem since the C4s and continues through the latest C6. The chinking noise that can be heard when starting out is due to the splined axle shaft moving inside the splined wheel bearing. I just had both axle shafts and rear wheel bearings replaced under warranty on my C6Z to get rid of the noise. If the wear gets bad enough you can get down near the rear wheel with the hub cover off and actually see the axle moving inside the bearing splines as the driver lets the clutch out.
I had the exact same problem on my 86.
Bill
I had the exact same problem on my 86.
Bill
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 622
Likes: 169
From: Montgomery Texas
Actually there can be movement in the splines. That has been a problem since the C4s and continues through the latest C6. The chinking noise that can be heard when starting out is due to the splined axle shaft moving inside the splined wheel bearing. I just had both axle shafts and rear wheel bearings replaced under warranty on my C6Z to get rid of the noise. If the wear gets bad enough you can get down near the rear wheel with the hub cover off and actually see the axle moving inside the bearing splines as the driver lets the clutch out.
I had the exact same problem on my 86.
Bill
I had the exact same problem on my 86.
Bill
... and GM is not the only manufacturer to struggle with this. The tooling used to produce these parts requires periodic calibration. Sometimes they are not calibrated properly, sometimes they are not calibrated frequently enough. With enough tolerance drift/stack, you get an audible noise.
On one vehicle with which I am familiar, the manufacturer recommended coating the splines with red Loctite and then assembling the hub and then allowing the vehicle to sit overnight before driving. This was a very effective stop gap until the manufacturer identified and sorted out the root cause and then produced new, in-spec parts.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 622
Likes: 169
From: Montgomery Texas
So long as you know that the Loctite is there, all that is required is a little patience and a few minutes with the hot wrench. Then it will come apart just like butter.
If the poor bastard trying to take it apart didn't know, then he would likely have a very bad day!
If the poor bastard trying to take it apart didn't know, then he would likely have a very bad day!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Back in my younger days, I did a frame off (total body replacment) job on a CJ5 for a guy. It was then that I decided that Jeeps are the biggest pos every produced in automotive history.
During the job, I also did an engine build which was on a 304, way too much engine for a jeep. On a test drive, doing nothing more than driving the vehicle, I went to apply some throttle and something in the driveline gave. I hadn't even done anything? Had to stick it in 4wd to get it the 1/4 mile home to work on it.
Here, I had a spun a hub. Upon R & R, I get the new one and the shaft has splines, but the hub does not. ???? Wtf? Yea, so here's how they "designed" it. You take this hub, which is made from some crappy $h*& steel from china, stick the hub on on the shaft, then sit there with an impact wrench tightening this thing till the splines in the shaft smash their way into the tapered hub. And that's it. Go drive a while, it loosens up, and the next idiot jeep owner gets to do it again. Moral of the story is, don't drive anything designed by the pilgrims.
These vette ones may not be perfect, but they're much better than some.
During the job, I also did an engine build which was on a 304, way too much engine for a jeep. On a test drive, doing nothing more than driving the vehicle, I went to apply some throttle and something in the driveline gave. I hadn't even done anything? Had to stick it in 4wd to get it the 1/4 mile home to work on it.
Here, I had a spun a hub. Upon R & R, I get the new one and the shaft has splines, but the hub does not. ???? Wtf? Yea, so here's how they "designed" it. You take this hub, which is made from some crappy $h*& steel from china, stick the hub on on the shaft, then sit there with an impact wrench tightening this thing till the splines in the shaft smash their way into the tapered hub. And that's it. Go drive a while, it loosens up, and the next idiot jeep owner gets to do it again. Moral of the story is, don't drive anything designed by the pilgrims.
These vette ones may not be perfect, but they're much better than some.
