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Prepping the block

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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Default Prepping the block

I'm in the middle of a heads/cam job, and I pulled off the 853 off my LS1. Thse used the older composite gaskets before the MLS gaskets...which WILL use with the new heads. Is there an easy way to clean up the gasket material on the block? Being Aluminum - I'm terrified about nicking it. The LS1 instructions say to use a plastic ice scraper... wondering if there were any other tidbits of experience on here?

I have this mess on the engine block:
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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You can start by spraying some gasket remover and then carefully scrape away the old gasket. Be careful not to gouge. Keep the scrapper on a low angle - nearly parallel with the deck. And get that water out of the cylinders, along with all the gasket pieces. Put a rag in the lifter area to help keep junk out of the engine.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chevy406
You can start by spraying some gasket remover and then carefully scrape away the old gasket. Be careful not to gouge. Keep the scrapper on a low angle - nearly parallel with the deck. And get that water out of the cylinders, along with all the gasket pieces. Put a rag in the lifter area to help keep junk out of the engine.


And don't use a wire wheel. Shop vac will be a big help.
Brake cleaner and carb cleaner help as well.
I would also clean the piston tops. Same process. Piston at TDC of course.
In fact I do it with the scraper and shop vac at the same time.
Scotch brite pads, like you use to do the dishes, work well for the final clean up. Just go real easy.
When done with each piston, shop vac the heck out of the area between the bore and the piston. Then move the piston down an inch or 2 and wipe the bore clean.

Ron
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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Make absolutely positively sure you keep debris out of the lifters. I like to use a bamboo chopstick that is filed down shaped like a chisel. The bamboo won't scratch and it's pretty effective in removing gaskets or carbon. If you are replacing the lifters, you can remove the trays leaving the lifters in place to prevent anything from getting into the oil gallery. Once the block is clean thoroughly clean the lifter area before pulling the lifters.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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clean with one of those scouring pads. Took forever. Did nothing to the pistons but wipe down.

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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Some good suggestions, but the most important one(in my opinion) has not been mentioned.......chase the head bolt holes, and make sure they are clean and dry....or reassembly can turn into a real bad day.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Looks good. And yes, it goes slow.
On the headbolt threads, excellent suggestion.
Buy a thread chaser, you don't want to use a tap.

Got my heads in the mail today.

Ron
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Looks good. And yes, it goes slow.
On the headbolt threads, excellent suggestion.
Buy a thread chaser, you don't want to use a tap.

Got my heads in the mail today.

Ron
Ah - I was going to do the tap route. The LS1howto instructions indicate to grind off a side of an old bolt to use as a chaser. I'll do that. I have a grinder.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:02 AM
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I bought the ARP thread chaser for the last time I removed the heads. You may also want to suck the coolant out of the block to check for debris as well. If any pieces got into the coolant you won't see it. You may also want to oil the cylinders and rotate the motor a few times to make sure there is no debris or small particles near the rings. Where I live if you don't oil the cylinders frequently you will find rust in the morning
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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I made the chaser out of an old head bolt on the grinder. Took out two opposite sides. The grinder doesn't gall the threads at all. The major cleaning actually came from blowing out the holes. This aluminum extension air gun fits into the bolt holes after a little straightening. Works like a charm. Then ran the chase and picked up almost nothing.

HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-blo...ion-68257.html
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