Got my drivers window up- MacGyver Style!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Got my drivers window up- MacGyver Style!
Well this has been a long night in the garage. I posted earlier that my driver side window would not go back up. After many searches I figured out how to take off the door panel and get at the motor.
I tested the power coming to the motor itself, and got 4 volts.
Disassembled the entire system,down to a complete cleaning and rebuild of the motor itself. It was pretty dirty in there, so I cleaned it up with a razor blade, WD40, and a lot of patience. Before putting everything back in I attached the power lead back to the motor and got nothing again.
Not wanting to be without a car for the Holiday weekend, I fashioned a 12V direct connect to the motor using a battery charger, and the sum bitch worked. I ran it all the way up, and reinstalled the glass, speaker, door panel. Still no action from the switch, but at least the window is UP!!
Now the big question is does the motor really need 12 volts to run? All the other controls on the driver side switch work, with the exception of the driver side window. Is the motor so shot I needed that much power, or do I have a problem somewhere else that is limiting the lead to 4 volts? What part do I need to replace????
Please Help Me!!!!
Vato
I tested the power coming to the motor itself, and got 4 volts.
Disassembled the entire system,down to a complete cleaning and rebuild of the motor itself. It was pretty dirty in there, so I cleaned it up with a razor blade, WD40, and a lot of patience. Before putting everything back in I attached the power lead back to the motor and got nothing again.
Not wanting to be without a car for the Holiday weekend, I fashioned a 12V direct connect to the motor using a battery charger, and the sum bitch worked. I ran it all the way up, and reinstalled the glass, speaker, door panel. Still no action from the switch, but at least the window is UP!!
Now the big question is does the motor really need 12 volts to run? All the other controls on the driver side switch work, with the exception of the driver side window. Is the motor so shot I needed that much power, or do I have a problem somewhere else that is limiting the lead to 4 volts? What part do I need to replace????
Please Help Me!!!!
Vato
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,181
Likes: 286
From: Puyallup Washington
The motor needs 12 v to work properly. You will need to get your FSM out and find why you only have 4v. Corrosion in connectors, bad ground etc. If you do not have a factory service manual that should be your next purchase.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Here is a post for you:
- C5 Bakersfield, How to fix a door lock or window problem : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...w-problem.html
The first place I would check would be the door connector in the door A Pillar. Pop out the accordion tube and fish out the connectors from the hole. Make sure that you dont have any deformed female pins. That will cause a bad connection and partial voltage:
- C5 Bakersfield, How to fix a door lock or window problem : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...w-problem.html
The first place I would check would be the door connector in the door A Pillar. Pop out the accordion tube and fish out the connectors from the hole. Make sure that you dont have any deformed female pins. That will cause a bad connection and partial voltage:
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Thanks for the pics! Will check that now. Re: the link, I get this response:
"Vato, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation"
Shoot me!
"Vato, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation"
Shoot me!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Yea,,, I guess that POST is DEFUNCT!
SO,,, I found you some pictures of the INSIDE of the DOOR control modules. The relays inside fail and the contacts in the relay get burnt up. The post was how to replace those relays:
Heres the inside of the module The LEFT and Right modules are DIFFERNT so dont try to swap them:
BC
SO,,, I found you some pictures of the INSIDE of the DOOR control modules. The relays inside fail and the contacts in the relay get burnt up. The post was how to replace those relays:
Heres the inside of the module The LEFT and Right modules are DIFFERNT so dont try to swap them:
BC
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Measure the output from the module for the motor and while your measuring whack the relay. See if the output voltage increases or decreases. If it does, the contacts inside the relay are HOSED.
Thats 90% of the problem when you hear a click and nothing work. The LOW voltage your reading is an indication of poor/dirty relay contacts
BC
Thats 90% of the problem when you hear a click and nothing work. The LOW voltage your reading is an indication of poor/dirty relay contacts
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 174
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From: Orlando FL
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 182
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From: Palm Harbor Fl
Looks right. It's a common issue for the door lock and window contacts in the relays to get dirty over time. The one you're buying is used and may have issues as well. The best solution is to remove and solder in new relays. Or send yours off to someone to have it repaird. You can try and clean the contacts with contact cleaner or a small piece of emery cloth also.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I don't have any pics or they would be posted already. Ive asked SAVEWAVE (moderator) to look into why the BAKERFIELD post wont open. If Jim can get it to work,, you will have your answer.
If not, I'm looking for someone who might be able to repair the module for you.
Bill
If not, I'm looking for someone who might be able to repair the module for you.
Bill
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Fixed it!
Fixed it!! Wow. What an education the last few day have been. The solution was so simple.
The far left top pin on the image above was corroded. Took an emery board to it, and all 12 volts got though! Now the driver side window is a bit faster than the passengers. Guess I know what to do when that one fails!
Thank you for EVERYONES help. Didn't cost a dime, and I am now an expert at taking the damn thing apart and putting it back together.
My axiom remains 100% accurate : "The most pain in the *** problems invariably have the most simple solutions!"
The far left top pin on the image above was corroded. Took an emery board to it, and all 12 volts got though! Now the driver side window is a bit faster than the passengers. Guess I know what to do when that one fails!
Thank you for EVERYONES help. Didn't cost a dime, and I am now an expert at taking the damn thing apart and putting it back together.
My axiom remains 100% accurate : "The most pain in the *** problems invariably have the most simple solutions!"
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 54
Likes: 2
From: South Cal
Fixed it!! Wow. What an education the last few day have been. The solution was so simple.
The far left top pin on the image above was corroded. Took an emery board to it, and all 12 volts got though! Now the driver side window is a bit faster than the passengers. Guess I know what to do when that one fails!
Thank you for EVERYONES help. Didn't cost a dime, and I am now an expert at taking the damn thing apart and putting it back together.
My axiom remains 100% accurate : "The most pain in the *** problems invariably have the most simple solutions!"
The far left top pin on the image above was corroded. Took an emery board to it, and all 12 volts got though! Now the driver side window is a bit faster than the passengers. Guess I know what to do when that one fails!
Thank you for EVERYONES help. Didn't cost a dime, and I am now an expert at taking the damn thing apart and putting it back together.
My axiom remains 100% accurate : "The most pain in the *** problems invariably have the most simple solutions!"
I am having a similar problem with my 01. My passenger side window does not go up or down. There is a clicking sound when I press the auto button. I am planning to open it up tomorrow, any suggestions before I give it a go. Thank you.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
On the passenger side, once you pull the door panel off (use this link for a video how to: http://www.youtube.com/v/Xm1xu-fvZx0&hl=en&fs=1&), you can access the power connector to the motor itself, without having to take the entire assembly out of the door. You will most likely have to peel back some black gooey stuff. Its a small hole, but you should be able to fish it out no problem. Test it with a volt meter. If it does not read 12v, take the RDCM off the door (two torx 15 screws) and open it up (its easy). Check the larger pins as I did, and clean off any corrosion you may find. Then plug it all back in, and check the power again. If it shows 12 volts you should be good. If not....new relay time. Hopefully that is all it is. Re-read this entire thread. The folks here really helped me out on this one. Good luck!
