Wheel Studs
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
Wheel Studs
Just fitted some C6 wheels to the C5 and introduced 7mm spacers to the rears for clearance, this leaves me with only 9mm of thread actually engaging in the wheel nut rather than the 16mm without the spacer.
I reckon I will replace the studs with longer ones but until then what are your thoughts about running with the current thread contact level?
is it safe for general driving?
Mike.
I reckon I will replace the studs with longer ones but until then what are your thoughts about running with the current thread contact level?
is it safe for general driving?
Mike.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
To put it in perspective, 7mm would be .025 thicker than 1/4". Seeing as how most here seem to think 1/4" is fine with stock lug.....I dunno but 25 thou is pretty thin. Is it enough to break the camel's back...I doubt it but no scientific proof.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
Thanks guys, I have seen the threads where people say they use the standard lugs with 1/4" spacers, but I think my lugs may be different as they are not threaded along the complete length, the last 8mm has the thread macnined off, perhaps a European thing? if the lugs were threaded to the ends I would have full thread engagement, wont be able to see just how long they are until I get one out which begs another question, can the studs be tapped out with everything in place as there appears to be limited acces to the rear of the hub/rotor? or is it a removal of hub job? Just hoping I might be lucky for once
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
OK well now had time to have a good look at the rear rotor area assembly and it looks like I am into removing the whole lot including the hub to be able to change the studs, so any advise on what to look out for during this process would be appreciated, do I need to replace the caliper bracket bolts with new? this will be the first time they have been removed from new, and also what about the main centre nut on the drive shaft, replace or reuse?
If anyone has any other ideas to avoid this work please speak now as I intend to start stripping tommorrow (Saturday). I was considering different nuts with shoulders pertruding through the wheel to get the extra thread I need, or even a sleeve/helicoil type arrangement over the last 8mm of the existing stud, but not sure how strong that would be.
As ever your thoughts ideas greatly appreciated
Mike
If anyone has any other ideas to avoid this work please speak now as I intend to start stripping tommorrow (Saturday). I was considering different nuts with shoulders pertruding through the wheel to get the extra thread I need, or even a sleeve/helicoil type arrangement over the last 8mm of the existing stud, but not sure how strong that would be.
As ever your thoughts ideas greatly appreciated
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
Most racers drill a hole in the backing plate to let you get the rear stud out and put the new one in. A lot easier than taking all the hardware apart to get the old studs out and the new ones in.
These are the two ways to do it. Either take it all apart or drill a hole.
These are the two ways to do it. Either take it all apart or drill a hole.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,549
Likes: 30
From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
In my opinion, you need longer studs. Get the ARP high strength ones that are available from a lot of the forum vendors. To install the studs it is best to press them in the hub to avoid the stress of pulling them in with an impact and lug nut. That way you can be 100% sure that they are properly seated. You will need to remove the hubs from the car. As a previous poster stated, it is possible to install the fronts in place and rears by selective drilling. Caliper bridge and caliper bolts DO NOT need to be replaced. Just clean the old loktite off and apply more before reinstall.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
So new studs it is then, I have taken off the caliper and rotor but unfortunately dont have a 33mm socket to fit the drive shaft nut, but am picking one up tommorrow morning, just hope the hub is not too difficult to pull off.
I did look at drilling holes in the backplate as suggested but dont want to disturb the handbrake mechanism or pull the new studs in with the nuts, so the hub is coming off to do it the correct way, I will keep you informed of how it goes but so far so good
Mike.
I did look at drilling holes in the backplate as suggested but dont want to disturb the handbrake mechanism or pull the new studs in with the nuts, so the hub is coming off to do it the correct way, I will keep you informed of how it goes but so far so good
Mike.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
All componants now removed including the studs from the hubs, however I did encounter the age old problem of one of the bottom ball joints turning, tried always to seat it, jacked from below, strapped top to bottom but it just kept turning and despite getting an allen key in the top it just spun out, so ended up splitting the nut to get it off, so 1.5 hours to strip one side and 3 hours to strip the other.
Now missing one ball joint nut and cant find one on the web so does anyone know where I might find one? GM part no? or just the spec thred size and pitch so I can match one up.
Thanks
Mike.
Quick update, ordered some ARP studs 100-7708 these are 2.5" long so will be ideal, plus nut for joint is GM10282253 14mm but where do I get one? a bit difficult here in the UK. located a basic 14mm nut and washer just in case.
Getting there slowly
Mike.
Now missing one ball joint nut and cant find one on the web so does anyone know where I might find one? GM part no? or just the spec thred size and pitch so I can match one up.
Thanks
Mike.
Quick update, ordered some ARP studs 100-7708 these are 2.5" long so will be ideal, plus nut for joint is GM10282253 14mm but where do I get one? a bit difficult here in the UK. located a basic 14mm nut and washer just in case.
Getting there slowly
Mike.
Last edited by autocolor; Nov 28, 2011 at 01:54 PM. Reason: new info
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
Running 285/35/19 correct for rims, giving same circumference as the original C5 18" set up.
Regarding spacers, without any the tyre is touching the inner arch so a no brainer really, its mosty due to the vastly different offset of the wheels plus the wider rims, I would not be going through all this trouble if they were a straight fit.
Mike
Regarding spacers, without any the tyre is touching the inner arch so a no brainer really, its mosty due to the vastly different offset of the wheels plus the wider rims, I would not be going through all this trouble if they were a straight fit.
Mike
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Aspenden Hertfordshire U.K.
Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions, the rear wheel hubs are now refitted with the new longer studs, only took around an hour to totally refit both sides, its just great when things go right first time.
I overcame the moving ball joints by fitting a plain 14mm nut first and tightening as much as possible, then a jack underneath to keep up the joint pressure, remove the plain nut and replace with the correct lock nut, job done.
I am off for a run now to see how my new wheels and tyres perform hopefully the wheels wont fall off
Thanks again
Mike
I overcame the moving ball joints by fitting a plain 14mm nut first and tightening as much as possible, then a jack underneath to keep up the joint pressure, remove the plain nut and replace with the correct lock nut, job done.
I am off for a run now to see how my new wheels and tyres perform hopefully the wheels wont fall off
Thanks again
Mike
