FAST 102 questions
Does this manifold fit the LS1 valley cover setup or does it need to be changed to LS6 setup?
Where does the MAP sensor mount? I don't see a mount in the back.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Dec 5, 2011 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Adding Photos
Also---as far as the installation---Now would be a good time to install the LS6 valley anyway--These engines are notorious for sucking eng oil into your maniflod via the PCV system----Look inside of your old manifold with a flashlight----If it is oil soaked as 99% of them are--I would get the LS6 valley---only about $75 also requires some re-routing of the PCV lines and --You will aslo have to grind off a small piece in the corner of you block under the valley---don't panic -i's easy just tape and cover everything to avoid alum getting into anything--
ALSO very important --On some Fast intakes---when installing them the bottom of the manifold will TOUCH some of the bolt heads on the valley and will NOT seal the intake---Check yours 1st with a pre-fit
I got used some typewriter liquid correcter and panited ALL the bolt heads and fit the manifold with a few bolts--IF any of the paint transfers to the bottom of the manifold you have a clearance issue
On my car I just replaced all the valley bolts with some allen head "button" screws--- the allen head tops are much smaller and thinner and fit with no touching--but check it again anyway !!

So if it's moved to the front, I'll have to do some wiring. No prob. Uses the stock MAP sensor?
I got the complete stainless button head bolt kit with it, so I should be good to go there.
I'll do the valley cover swap. And a catch can, it just makes sense. The FAST has oily residue in it now as it came off an LS1.
When I get the LS1 intake off this week, I'll test fit the FAST, for cowl clearance etc.
Thanks!
Last edited by RonSSNova; Nov 30, 2011 at 12:28 PM.
Mount your TB to the intake with all the gaskets and as you tighten it down watch the clearance on top of the waterpump. It's a real close fit if your heads have been cut. I had to slightly grind the top of my waterpump to get a .002 feeler gauge in there.
There are clearance issues with the water pump and the cowl of the car. Grinding the water pump cures that one, and a couple 1/8th inch washers (12mm, you can purchase at Lowes) between the cradle and frame (2 each side,rear cradle bolts) will cure the cowl issue.
Stainless steel button head bolts for the valley cover, come in the FAST kit.
I have a 90mm GM TB. LS2? Was planning on checking water pump clearance as well.
Ed,
Got ya on drilling out the hole. I wondered why the boss in the back was closed.
Ditto on the washers. A lot cheaper than lowered mounts.
Ron
Last edited by printmanjackson; Nov 30, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

My intake has reasonable clearance when idling, power on it hits hard. You don't see it unless you remove the intake, I did take a photo being I'm in the middle of pulling the clutch
if anyone would like see it.So being I'm header-less soon to be drive line less I will probably do the motor mounts. I'm just debating which height as my AR 17/8 headers are to damn close to many things.....that's the advantage of shimming the cradle.
Oil in the intake, I've tried both LS1 & LS6 routing with a catch can & a Oil Cap Breather....no success. Seems that driving style & engine displacement are a factor...I probably have both factors

A suggestion from Tracy that I will try, a metered Oil Breather cap, plug nipples pass. side valve cover, route the rear of the drivers to the catch can. Catch can to the normal intake position, check valve to prevent the Hi Vacuum condition, his Catch can "RX". He provides lots of data on the various Catch Cans, what I like about the "RX" is it had the greatest distance between the in/out lines to help in catching the most.


Last edited by printmanjackson; Dec 1, 2011 at 09:52 AM. Reason: added more info
Do you have above average spirited driving style?
Last edited by CTD; Dec 1, 2011 at 09:26 PM.
It hits the cowl enough that I can't get it back far enough to seat it in place to line up the bolts.
Cowl interference in rear:

Close up:

Alignment to bolt (see yellow line)

Alignment at water pump:

So, now the question: will lower mounts get it there?
Drop the cradle until it fits and measure?
Rather disappointing.
Ron
It hits the cowl enough that I can't get it back far enough to seat it in place to line up the bolts.
Cowl interference in rear:

Close up:

Alignment to bolt (see yellow line)

Alignment at water pump:

So, now the question: will lower mounts get it there?
Drop the cradle until it fits and measure?
Rather disappointing.
Ron
Disappointing is not the appropriate word to me...sorry to read about your disappointment Ron...
Christian
Mine would bolt down but I didn't have much if any clearance. I installed the new mounts and gained about 1/16 clearance. If you can't get it to slide back enough to bolt up I would look at shimming.
I will say I like the way the new mounts hold the engine tighter and it feels like the torque to the wheels is better.
and never mind the haters, they are just pushing buttons on a laptop
jk dudes!

Suck it up & get err done....which ever solution works best, myself I leaning to wards the stiffer stock height mounts, minimal shimming & one one of those Pfadt rear diff mount braces!
I already have the ECS Trans Brace.

















