C5 Starter?
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
C5 Starter?
1998 C5 w/88K miles won't start. When you turn the key, the starter clicks once but doesn't turn over. The battery is fairly new and cables appear to be fine. Unfortunately I can't pull up any codes. I believe it's the starter but I'm not sure. The car has been sitting for awhile but it started normally three times today before it failed. Any constructive input would be appreciated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2007
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Also check the cables on the starter. Be sure the battery is disconnected before you do this. If you can't reach it from underneath or by contorting your hand in there you can rig up a bunch of extensions with a swivel extension (bent to the correct angle then taped) thrown in there to get to it.
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
Might be the starter but I would begin with the battery and battery cables. Insure that the cables are clean and tight. Pull the battery and take it to a local parts store and have it load tested. If the car has been sitting for a while it may be drained down. Starting the car and going short distances does absolutely nothing for putting a charge back on the battery. Needs longer run time if the battery was low to begin with. What's preventing the codes from being pulled? They might be helpful.
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
Also check the cables on the starter. Be sure the battery is disconnected before you do this. If you can't reach it from underneath or by contorting your hand in there you can rig up a bunch of extensions with a swivel extension (bent to the correct angle then taped) thrown in there to get to it.
Last edited by leemelone; Dec 1, 2011 at 07:25 PM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The starter SOLINOID is most likely bad. If you RAP it with a mallet while someone holds the , I bet ya the starter will crank the engine. Been there done that.
They coat 50-60 bucks but,,,, you have to remove the starter to replace it/
BC
They coat 50-60 bucks but,,,, you have to remove the starter to replace it/
BC
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,, heres the real story!
STUDY this schematic. You will find that the THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the break in point to properly troubleshoot your issue..
Grab a meter and figure out whata NOT HAPPENING! With this schematic and a meter,, you should be easily able to see where the issue lies.
I have an 02 Z with LT Headers. I used a 3 foot piece of rebar that was insulated with tape to BANG the solenoid/starter when mine wouldnt crank. Worked like a champ. Once I changed out the defective solenoid, PROBLEM RESOLVED!
SCHEMATIC:
If you need help with the schematic,, let us know.
BC
STUDY this schematic. You will find that the THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the break in point to properly troubleshoot your issue..
Grab a meter and figure out whata NOT HAPPENING! With this schematic and a meter,, you should be easily able to see where the issue lies.
I have an 02 Z with LT Headers. I used a 3 foot piece of rebar that was insulated with tape to BANG the solenoid/starter when mine wouldnt crank. Worked like a champ. Once I changed out the defective solenoid, PROBLEM RESOLVED!
SCHEMATIC:
If you need help with the schematic,, let us know.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
OH,,,, If the electrical contacts inside the IGNITION SWITCH are corroded/burnt/defective,,, it will cause the same issues. Heres a great repair post for you!!
-C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
-C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
Mine was replaced when I first bought the car about 5 years ago and the car only has 8K since. Could still be defective I suppose. I've been having a lot of electrical issues in the last year and I wonder if it's because I don't drive it enough. It sits under a cover during the week and I usually only drive it on the weekends.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,148
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From: South Western Ontario
If the starter actually does click but doesn't engage then there are 3 likely culrits.
#1 is the main battery wires going to the starter and the engine block. Get a voltage meter connected between the big post on the solenoid where the wire attaches and the motor or starter housing. Check what the voltage does when the key is turned. If you have voltage with the key turned then the starter is getting power. The power wires can look good but still be corroded internally.
#2 is the starter solenoid. The solenoid could be the problem if the voltages are there but it still doesn't turn.
#3 is the starter motor. The motor won't turn if the brushes are worn out or have some type of connection issue. It won't work if the motor windings themselves have failed either.
Peter
#1 is the main battery wires going to the starter and the engine block. Get a voltage meter connected between the big post on the solenoid where the wire attaches and the motor or starter housing. Check what the voltage does when the key is turned. If you have voltage with the key turned then the starter is getting power. The power wires can look good but still be corroded internally.
#2 is the starter solenoid. The solenoid could be the problem if the voltages are there but it still doesn't turn.
#3 is the starter motor. The motor won't turn if the brushes are worn out or have some type of connection issue. It won't work if the motor windings themselves have failed either.
Peter
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From: atlanta ga
UPDATE********
The starter is off and it worked on the test bench but had sparks flying from the terminals. On the car it didn't spin even though it was getting 11.5 volts on the meter. I had to order a new one and will be reinstalling tomorrow. Is it possible for a starter to spin on the test bench even though it's bad?
The starter is off and it worked on the test bench but had sparks flying from the terminals. On the car it didn't spin even though it was getting 11.5 volts on the meter. I had to order a new one and will be reinstalling tomorrow. Is it possible for a starter to spin on the test bench even though it's bad?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Of course it going to spark when you connect it!!!!!!!!! Its drawing 30-40 AMPS. The NEW one will spark also. That why you have a solenoid. Its a HIGH CURRENT Switch!
Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.
Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.
BC
Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.
Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.
BC
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 47
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From: atlanta ga
Of course it going to spark when you connect it!!!!!!!!! Its drawing 30-40 AMPS. The NEW one will spark also. That why you have a solenoid. Its a HIGH CURRENT Switch!
Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.
Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.
BC
Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.
Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.
BC
I did whack it today with a hammer before it was removed and still just the one click. So you're saying I have another issue (ignition switch?) and the starter's fine? I'd rather not waste $200 for a new one if mine ok.
PS I had a guy check to see if it was throwing any codes and he said it there weren't any.
Last edited by leemelone; Dec 2, 2011 at 06:51 PM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Are you SURE that you have battery voltage on the purple wire during the crank attempt??
Use a jumper cable and apply 12 VDC directly to the PURPLE WIRE,
WARNING! Make ABSOULTY SURE THAT THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR, WHEELS CHOCKED E BRAKE SET AND SAFE!!!
If that doesnt cause it to crank, apply the 12 VDC to the wire that goes into the starter.
BC
Use a jumper cable and apply 12 VDC directly to the PURPLE WIRE,
WARNING! Make ABSOULTY SURE THAT THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR, WHEELS CHOCKED E BRAKE SET AND SAFE!!!
If that doesnt cause it to crank, apply the 12 VDC to the wire that goes into the starter.
BC
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,148
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From: South Western Ontario
If the answer is yes, then most likely that the starter is at fault, either the solenoid or the motor.
You can also measure the voltage on the output of the solenoid to see if power is reaching the motor from the solenoid to determine which one is the problem.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; Dec 2, 2011 at 10:35 PM.
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
FINAL UPDATE...FIXED!
Thanks to Bill and everyone who helped out. I was concerned when the old starter passed the test at the parts store. I bought a new one and it was a PITA to R&R but she starts like a new one now.
Thanks to Bill and everyone who helped out. I was concerned when the old starter passed the test at the parts store. I bought a new one and it was a PITA to R&R but she starts like a new one now.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 470
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From: Northwest Washington
Thanks in advance!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
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From: atlanta ga
They tried to sell me a one size fits many starter that had two long bolts but I made them order an exact replacement that was one long and one short bolt.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
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From: EXTON PA
Many part offers are not new but rebuilt and while they/rebuilt are given warranties the work used to rebuild a part can be a crap shoot..I think your decision for a exact replacement was a great idea...New does cost more money that rebuilt but there is a reason for that financial difference...Quality
