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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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Default C5 Starter?

1998 C5 w/88K miles won't start. When you turn the key, the starter clicks once but doesn't turn over. The battery is fairly new and cables appear to be fine. Unfortunately I can't pull up any codes. I believe it's the starter but I'm not sure. The car has been sitting for awhile but it started normally three times today before it failed. Any constructive input would be appreciated.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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Also check the cables on the starter. Be sure the battery is disconnected before you do this. If you can't reach it from underneath or by contorting your hand in there you can rig up a bunch of extensions with a swivel extension (bent to the correct angle then taped) thrown in there to get to it.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Might be the starter but I would begin with the battery and battery cables. Insure that the cables are clean and tight. Pull the battery and take it to a local parts store and have it load tested. If the car has been sitting for a while it may be drained down. Starting the car and going short distances does absolutely nothing for putting a charge back on the battery. Needs longer run time if the battery was low to begin with. What's preventing the codes from being pulled? They might be helpful.
The battery is only about 5 months old. I checked the cables and battery first thing. I tried jump starting it and it does exactly the same. It had been sitting for about 10 days but started easily three times today. I can't pull the codes because that part of my dash only lights up intermittently and it's out right now.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by CordMcNally
Also check the cables on the starter. Be sure the battery is disconnected before you do this. If you can't reach it from underneath or by contorting your hand in there you can rig up a bunch of extensions with a swivel extension (bent to the correct angle then taped) thrown in there to get to it.
I tried reaching down and wiggling the cables around but I couldn't really tell if they're loose or corroded. Don't starters usually give some sort of sign before they completely fail? That's been my experience in the past.

Last edited by leemelone; Dec 1, 2011 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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The starter SOLINOID is most likely bad. If you RAP it with a mallet while someone holds the , I bet ya the starter will crank the engine. Been there done that.

They coat 50-60 bucks but,,,, you have to remove the starter to replace it/



BC
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The starter SOLINOID is most likely bad. If you RAP it with a mallet while someone holds the , I bet ya the starter will crank the engine. Been there done that.

They coat 50-60 bucks but,,,, you have to remove the starter to replace it/



BC
Thanks Bill. I tried tapping on it with a long screw driver while someone turned the key and it didn't help but perhaps I need something a little BIGGER.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Well,,,, heres the real story!

STUDY this schematic. You will find that the THEFT DETERRENT RELAY is the break in point to properly troubleshoot your issue..

Grab a meter and figure out whata NOT HAPPENING! With this schematic and a meter,, you should be easily able to see where the issue lies.

I have an 02 Z with LT Headers. I used a 3 foot piece of rebar that was insulated with tape to BANG the solenoid/starter when mine wouldnt crank. Worked like a champ. Once I changed out the defective solenoid, PROBLEM RESOLVED!

SCHEMATIC:



If you need help with the schematic,, let us know.


BC
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:35 PM
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OH,,,, If the electrical contacts inside the IGNITION SWITCH are corroded/burnt/defective,,, it will cause the same issues. Heres a great repair post for you!!

-C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
OH,,,, If the electrical contacts inside the IGNITION SWITCH are corroded/burnt/defective,,, it will cause the same issues.
Mine was replaced when I first bought the car about 5 years ago and the car only has 8K since. Could still be defective I suppose. I've been having a lot of electrical issues in the last year and I wonder if it's because I don't drive it enough. It sits under a cover during the week and I usually only drive it on the weekends.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 12:09 AM
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If the starter actually does click but doesn't engage then there are 3 likely culrits.

#1 is the main battery wires going to the starter and the engine block. Get a voltage meter connected between the big post on the solenoid where the wire attaches and the motor or starter housing. Check what the voltage does when the key is turned. If you have voltage with the key turned then the starter is getting power. The power wires can look good but still be corroded internally.

#2 is the starter solenoid. The solenoid could be the problem if the voltages are there but it still doesn't turn.

#3 is the starter motor. The motor won't turn if the brushes are worn out or have some type of connection issue. It won't work if the motor windings themselves have failed either.

Peter
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:00 PM
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UPDATE********
The starter is off and it worked on the test bench but had sparks flying from the terminals. On the car it didn't spin even though it was getting 11.5 volts on the meter. I had to order a new one and will be reinstalling tomorrow. Is it possible for a starter to spin on the test bench even though it's bad?
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:13 PM
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Of course it going to spark when you connect it!!!!!!!!! Its drawing 30-40 AMPS. The NEW one will spark also. That why you have a solenoid. Its a HIGH CURRENT Switch!

Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.

Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.

BC
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Of course it going to spark when you connect it!!!!!!!!! Its drawing 30-40 AMPS. The NEW one will spark also. That why you have a solenoid. Its a HIGH CURRENT Switch!

Probably wasn't anything wrong with it OR the defective solenoid got bounced around enough during removal and then decided to work.

Thats why I recommended whacking it to see if that would get it to crank.

BC
Thanks Bill for following up. It was connected to a tester with a switch at a parts store. It sparked when the switch was flipped. The HIGHLY knowledgeable kid said he'd never seen one do that!
I did whack it today with a hammer before it was removed and still just the one click. So you're saying I have another issue (ignition switch?) and the starter's fine? I'd rather not waste $200 for a new one if mine ok.
PS I had a guy check to see if it was throwing any codes and he said it there weren't any.

Last edited by leemelone; Dec 2, 2011 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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Are you SURE that you have battery voltage on the purple wire during the crank attempt??

Use a jumper cable and apply 12 VDC directly to the PURPLE WIRE,

WARNING! Make ABSOULTY SURE THAT THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR, WHEELS CHOCKED E BRAKE SET AND SAFE!!!

If that doesnt cause it to crank, apply the 12 VDC to the wire that goes into the starter.

BC
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by leemelone
UPDATE********
On the car it didn't spin even though it was getting 11.5 volts on the meter.
You measured between the main power post fed by the battery and the starter shell or engine block and had 11.5V when the solenoid engaged? Just double checking?

If the answer is yes, then most likely that the starter is at fault, either the solenoid or the motor.

You can also measure the voltage on the output of the solenoid to see if power is reaching the motor from the solenoid to determine which one is the problem.

Peter

Last edited by lionelhutz; Dec 2, 2011 at 10:35 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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FINAL UPDATE...FIXED!

Thanks to Bill and everyone who helped out. I was concerned when the old starter passed the test at the parts store. I bought a new one and it was a PITA to R&R but she starts like a new one now.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by leemelone
FINAL UPDATE...FIXED!

Thanks to Bill and everyone who helped out. I was concerned when the old starter passed the test at the parts store. I bought a new one and it was a PITA to R&R but she starts like a new one now.
Question for you, did the new starter take two long bolts or one long and one short bolt to install?
Thanks in advance!
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Rex99Coupe
Question for you, did the new starter take two long bolts or one long and one short bolt to install?
Thanks in advance!
They tried to sell me a one size fits many starter that had two long bolts but I made them order an exact replacement that was one long and one short bolt.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by leemelone
They tried to sell me a one size fits many starter that had two long bolts but I made them order an exact replacement that was one long and one short bolt.
..

Many part offers are not new but rebuilt and while they/rebuilt are given warranties the work used to rebuild a part can be a crap shoot..I think your decision for a exact replacement was a great idea...New does cost more money that rebuilt but there is a reason for that financial difference...Quality
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