I am a new owner to a 2001 corvette and member to the forum site. I am needing to replace the passenger side air check valve that is behind the intake. According to a lot of the post that I am reading on here you have to remove the intake to do so. Is there anyway to replace this valve without removing the intake and if so how.

 

I tried replacing it without removing the intake and basically concluded it's impossible. Even with the intake off, the bolt that holds the metal tube to the back of the head is very difficult to reach. The bracket that attaches to that bolt is slotted, so you just have to loosen it and not remove it all the way.

It's too bad GM located that check valve there ... if it was out in the open like the driver's side, it would cause a lot less headache for owners and mechanics.

I did a bunch of other stuff while the intake was off, so it wasn't a total waste to remove it to replace the check valve.

 

I have the P1416 code too, it came on twice within 10 days recently and I simply reset it. I bought the $12.99 check valve at Autozone and read other posts on how to replace it. I expected it to be difficult but after I took the fuel rail covers off I couldn't even see it? My 03 Coupe is my only car and my daily driver, and after reading the detailed instructions on how to remove the intake manifold from other forum members I just don't want to tackle this task for a simple check valve. And I understand that its not that hard of a procedure according to others who have done it already but for me its a task that if something goes wrong I won't be able to get to work the next day. If I had another car and a garage to work in I would do the intake manifold removal procedure and replace the check valve.
Intake Manifold Removal Procedure
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ease-help.html

As an alternative I'm thinking why not just splice in a new check valve using standard intake manifold hose, some fittings, barbed connectors, and hose clamps? My thought is to splice it in where you have easy access to the hose and bypass the old check valve. Maybe someday when the oil pressure sending unit needs to be replaced I'll take the plunge and remove the intake manifold and replace the check valve and oil pressure sending unit at the same time.
Currently I'm just thinking of this temporary bypass method and wondering if anyone has tried it already?
Lastly I'm aware of Bill Curlee's method of cleaning the check valve via spraying carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner down the hose towards the check valve. I think that's a great quick fix and should be attempted prior to any other fix. But if the p1416 code returns again and again then replacing or bypassing the check valve is the solution.

Photo courtesy of Bill Curlee


C5 Corvette Check valve with hose by BicycleBanner, on Flickr

Related Post "How to replace the (p1416) air check valve??"
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eck-valve.html

 

Unless you just WANT to replace these components why don't you use the money to have a tuner make some quick adjustments to the program and eliminate the AIR system all together? It is a totally useless system and will not effect your emissions test. I had mine done after replacing almost all of the components and chasing the CEL. While the tuner was in there he made some other nice changes to my A4 that made it nicer to drive also! Good Luck.

 

Tuned mine out via hp-tuners....and still passed emissions tests

 

Paul, that sounds like a good solution and its something that I haven't considered which shows my limited knowledge on my corvette. What did the tuner guy charge you? What was the total cost? Is there any downside or negative effects of changing the computer?

I figure my temporary bypass method would cost me $40 bucks and I could do it myself (thanks to other forum members) in an hour or two. I also want to keep my daily driver stock and I don't want to have to rely on a tuner guy if something goes wrong or the changes that he makes results in more trips back to him for fixes. I'm not a fan of stealerships or mechanics who want to get rich off of me, I'm a DIYer when ever possible. That being said I think its great if you have a trusted tuner guy that can take care of problems like this for you and I'm interested in what the total cost and time it took. Thanks for your input.

 

Then installing bypass hoses, barb fittings, and hose clamps....is not keeping it stock. Having a tuner turn the codes off, is the most non-invasive approach.

 

I think the tuner charged me $100 to do all of the adjustments. There have been no issues since and that has been well over a year. You might look at the regional Corvette Forum for the northwest and ask who owners use in the Oregon area for tuning. A reputable one should be available. I would avoid a shade tree that has a hand held device. Find someone who uses a laptop and knows what he is doing. A simple tune can make your car much more enjoyable and I would highly recommend it if you have an A4 tranny. Unless you want the tuner to change something back there will be no going back and forth and spending more money. Once it is done it is done. Good Luck!

 

This is the way to go especially if you have an A4. Your tuner can do some great things for your tranny and eliminate your air system problem.

 

LOL, when I was writing that I thought to myself, "Should I explain that I understand the bypass method is not stock?" but then I thought, "Nah its too much explanation and they'll know what I mean" Anyway, I see what you are saying and the tuner simply turns off codes. Is this one of those tuners you can buy and do yourself? What do they cost? What brand/model? If I simply turn off the codes does the bad check valve create a worse problem? Thanks Lucky.

 

OK. I will try once more. FIND A TUNER. That is a person who can manipulate the programs located in your on board computer with a laptop computer. I would NOT suggest you buy a hand held device and try to do this yourself. This process is NOT turning off codes but it is changing specific parameters on your on board computer that will trick your computer into thinking ( cant believe I use that term ) that all is well and will not illuminate the CEL. This process cost me $100 and as a side note, I had replaced the AIR pump and both check valves and STILL got the CEL. I WISH that someone had told ME to just tune out the codes in the first place but I was not that lucky. Good Luck.

 

Have you tried squirting carb cleaner up the hose to free up that check valve?
There are some good theads on how to do this.

 

I did the replacement a while back. If you do the replacement, just a couple words of advice/warning. Read the online instructions several times before attepmpting. Change your driver side check valve first. Its probably close to failing also, and by changing it, you will get some experience with the pieces you are working with. Its much easier than the passenger side check valve. Removing the intake is not so bad except for a couple of things like for the 3mm or 4mm airline at the back. Its so small, you might not even notice it is there if you were not looking for it. If you have big hands, good luck getting it back in when you re-install the manifold. Then there is the yellow plastic connector that you squeeze to release ( never did quite figure that one out). The screw that holds bracket to the back of the cylinder is a pain. Internet wisdom says you can get at it with a 1/4" swivel ratchet, but I gave up. I cut the bracket it two to get the check valve line out. Then I welded it up into a two piece bracket with a screw that is readily accessible to separate the two pieces.

 

I'm just going to guess here. If the puter knows something is wrong on bank 2, it has to do with O2 sensor readings during warm up. That is the only time the AIR pump runs. If it's setting this code, then I think the valve is stuck closed and not providing air to the pass side. Or, the pump output is low and can only open one valve.

A guy could remove the fittings (or hose) from the manifolds, then blow air through at the T, or individually, to see if air comes out on each side. If the pass side doesn't flow, then it's stuck closed. Maybe compressed air would free it? They are simple spring loaded valves.

I am in NE Portland, so welcome Hillsboro. I just got done removing the intake manifold on mine, my first time. Not too bad, but removing that brake vacuum canister line was a bitch. I was able to remove the AIR lines from the back of the head pretty easily, and mine are not going back on. FWIW.....13mm offset box wrench and good feel for the bolt head.

I'm willing to help you troubleshoot it if you can wait until the weekend. I have a 1 car garage and guess what's in there?

I also have the tuning software to tune this out, but am real new at it so if the fellows here can tell me what to edit, I can do that. The only "tuning" I've done on my car thus far is the fan temps.

BTW, I work in Beaverton (Tektronix)

I followed a Red 200X Vette on TV highway on Friday around noon, turned left by Carr Chev. You? I don't see many around.

Ron

 

True.....provided the test provides normal feedback to the PCM.

 

Stuck open would overheat the catastrophic diverter correct?

 

catastrophic diverter?

 

Catalytic converter......

 

I thought with the air system turned off, the car wouldn't show "ready" when plugged in during the smog.

Based on what you're saying, I am going to have my tuner turn it off. Thanks for the heads up..

 

Not true. It's not only at warm up that the AIR system does checks ... it also does checks while driving also (reference Service Manual for conditions when it does checks). I've has the CE light come on 20 minutes into a drive, and the CE comes on after the 3rd instance of the DTC getting triggered.