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Hey guys, I recently replaced the motor in my car with an LQ4 and upon starting it up it is vibrating pretty badly at around 3k and just vibrates faster the more i go up. Im trying to determine if its caused by a minor warp to the flywheel or because of the weights that are still there from my original motor. The stuff I know...
1. There was no vibrations at any time when I had my original LS1 in the car to the point I took it out.
2. The warp on the flywheel was very slight.
3. The weights meant to balance my LS1 are still on the flywheel that I just put on the LQ4 that is now in my car.
Just trying to feel for the answer here, Im thinking I may try to knock the weights out and go from there but again Im not sure 100% Interested in knowing what you guys think, thanks.
I think warp would be more apparent at engagement than steady cruising Eyeball the harmonic balancer for wobble. If that's good, sounds like the flywheel is the culprit. Another source of vibration is a bent propshaft.
Was the new engine used or rebuilt? Zero balanced?
Number the 12 balance holes in the flywheel. Mark down what holes have the weights. Remove ALL the weights and check by revving the engine to your 3000 rpm point. My bet is you no longer need the weights if the engine was built with balanced parts. If it is engine imbalance, the shifter is the best thing to use to evaluate the vibration by resting your hand on it while running up to the 3000 rpm test point.
The engine is used but its rebuilt and balanced, originally from a 2002 Chevy 2500. There's no wobble on the balancer. The vibration occurs both when the clutch is engaged and disengaged as you rev up the motor, Im almost certain its the flywheel, just not certain if I can knock the weights out and fix the problem or if its somthing requiring a new flywheel.
The engine is used but its rebuilt and balanced, originally from a 2002 Chevy 2500. There's no wobble on the balancer. The vibration occurs both when the clutch is engaged and disengaged as you rev up the motor, Im almost certain its the flywheel, just not certain if I can knock the weights out and fix the problem or if its somthing requiring a new flywheel.
It is easy to knock them out. Did you read my post above?
It is easy to knock them out. Did you read my post above?
Yes, What I meant was that I hope knocking them out will be enough and it wont still vibrate from the warp. From what youve said though it seems to be the fix to my problem, if I have it on a lift do you think I could knock em out by taking the starter off and hitting em backwards? Trying to avoid droping the entire driveline again.
Yes, What I meant was that I hope knocking them out will be enough and it wont still vibrate from the warp. From what youve said though it seems to be the fix to my problem, if I have it on a lift do you think I could knock em out by taking the starter off and hitting em backwards? Trying to avoid droping the entire driveline again.
That's the process I use to balance an engine while in the car. No need to remove the drivetrain. Pull the clutch inspection cover or the starter dust shield.
That's the process I use to balance an engine while in the car. No need to remove the drivetrain. Pull the clutch inspection cover or the starter dust shield.
I don't know Eric....by the OP's own admission, the flywheel was warped before install, which is a deal breaker right there. I think the only way to know for sure, is to pull the flywheel and clutch, and have the flywheel inspected(resurfaced as required), and the whole assembly balanced checked.
I don't know Eric....by the OP's own admission, the flywheel was warped before install, which is a deal breaker right there. I think the only way to know for sure, is to pull the flywheel and clutch, and have the flywheel inspected(resurfaced as required), and the whole assembly balanced checked.
No harm in trying the simple fix first. If it works he is saved the effort of disassembling the drive train again.
I don't know Eric....by the OP's own admission, the flywheel was warped before install, which is a deal breaker right there. I think the only way to know for sure, is to pull the flywheel and clutch, and have the flywheel inspected(resurfaced as required), and the whole assembly balanced checked.
Yep Lucky, you're probably right. No sense knocking out the weights and trying to see if it's better.
Ok, shoulda said that the flywheel was warped slightly and then resurfaced. Shouldnt be warped now but I thought there may still be a chance. Anyhow, was able to sneak some time in at the shop and knocked em out since it was quick. Seems to be be fixed, didnt go for a long drive since its gotta be put together but it wasnt vibrating like it had before at a standstill, went all the way to 6k. Hopefully this is it
Any, and I mean any warp is very bad. I had a warped flex plate on a Stroker motor in a Camaro and anything above 65 mph and the car would vibrate.
Yup, my friend just got the car back together and it still vibrates some, not terrible like before, but still noticable. The flywheel must have been too warped and the resurface must not have been enough.
Yup, my friend just got the car back together and it still vibrates some, not terrible like before, but still noticable. The flywheel must have been too warped and the resurface must not have been enough.
The shop that resurfaced the flywheel should have caught this, and brought it to your attention. The whole assembly(including clutch) needs to be checked.
The shop that resurfaced the flywheel should have caught this, and brought it to your attention. The whole assembly(including clutch) needs to be checked.
Yeah, Im probably gonna take it all back apart tommorow, just go from there then.
Yup, my friend just got the car back together and it still vibrates some, not terrible like before, but still noticable. The flywheel must have been too warped and the resurface must not have been enough.
How was it determined that the flywheel is warped? Was it measured, and if so, what is the run-out?
If it were mine I would attempted an in car balance before taking everything apart. You removed the weights, how many and if you did as I suggested and numbered the holes, what was the number relation to the weights removed?
How was it determined that the flywheel is warped? Was it measured, and if so, what is the run-out?
If it were mine I would attempted an in car balance before taking everything apart. You removed the weights, how many and if you did as I suggested and numbered the holes, what was the number relation to the weights removed?
Before they resurfaced the flywheel they told me that the old wear was flush on one side but had a lip on the other, they said there were also a few heat marks on it and that when they ran it on the machine that they run somthing right up to the flywheel and if the flywheel moves back in forth from it then they said its warped...Of course after saying that Im kinda wondering if its possible that it just had uneven wear or somthing. They said one side looks almost .25 deeper than the other, I had the whole thing cut to that level then and got the shim for it. When I got it back they said that they had trouble with the heat marks but had cut the whole thing down and I guess "fixed" the warp that way.
As far as the weights I started the numbers on the first one, there were weights on 1,2, and a small one on 3 (going clockwise), then no weights at all on the rest.
I assumed you used a machine to balance everything and it couldnt be done accurately in car, if it can that would be amazing. lol
Last edited by Speedaemonc4; Dec 8, 2011 at 11:24 AM.
Reason: more to add
The Youtube vid on this page convinced me to replace rather than resurface my flywheel. Mine had some really nasty hot spots. Metal had actually transfered from the flywheel to the disc.
GM specifies replacement BTW. When I priced an OE LS1 clutch my parts guy said the PP and flywheel were sold together. The only thing available separate was the disc.