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I recently charged up my battery and since then my oil pressure gauge has been at the top (600) and the DIC reads it as either 892 or sometimes 888. The car drives absolutely fine and no real issues. Perhaps the only thing I have noticed is the gear changes (automatic 2001) got a little more aggressive than usual after an hour or so driving, however the transmission/coolant/oil temperatures were all fine. I'm not sure if this is related in any way.
Could this just be a reading/sensor failure? Where and how can i check this?
I pulled the codes and the only one is the engine misfire code P030something...
I have also recently had my EBCM fixed and reinstalled if that means anything?
I recently charged up my battery and since then my oil pressure gauge has been at the top (600) and the DIC reads it as either 892 or sometimes 888. The car drives absolutely fine and no real issues. Perhaps the only thing I have noticed is the gear changes (automatic 2001) got a little more aggressive than usual after an hour or so driving, however the transmission/coolant/oil temperatures were all fine. I'm not sure if this is related in any way.
Could this just be a reading/sensor failure? Where and how can i check this?
I pulled the codes and the only one is the engine misfire code P030something...
I have also recently had my EBCM fixed and reinstalled if that means anything?
Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
JCB
Yes it's just a sensor. Do a sreach it's your oil sending unit located behind your intake by the fire wall. Take your intake off and you'll see it. Very typical for these cars. Have fun.
P.s. The new one could last as long as a week to yrs there garbage. GL
As stated, this is a common failure although when it fails, its usually reading 80psi not in 880 range as it simply doesn't go that high. When you buy a replacement, try to get a "brass" sender rather than an aluminum one.
As stated, this is a common failure although when it fails, its usually reading 80psi not in 880 range as it simply doesn't go that high. When you buy a replacement, try to get a "brass" sender rather than an aluminum one.
As stated, this is a common failure although when it fails, its usually reading 80psi not in 880 range as it simply doesn't go that high. When you buy a replacement, try to get a "brass" sender rather than an aluminum one.
Dont knock holes and use duck tape, thats a half *** way to do it... Take the time and remove the intake manifold, its right behind it... IM me if you need step by step instructions
As stated, this is a common failure although when it fails, its usually reading 80psi not in 880 range as it simply doesn't go that high. When you buy a replacement, try to get a "brass" sender rather than an aluminum one.
....and the logic behind this recommendation is what?
My personal view of using a brass sender instead of an aluminum one is fairly simple. Brass and Aluminum being the different metals that they are, respond differently to the heat there in the back of the engine and the oil temperature itself. When I replaced my OEM sender with GM's replacement Aluminum one, it lasted a whole two weeks before it died again. I did the relocation with another aluminum one because it was all that was available at the time but since moving it, no more failures. Now they have Brass senders available again therefore I recommend going back to what GM originally planned and I've heard of no other failures of replacement Brass senders.
Chiming in as I was doing a search since I drove my car and noticed my oil pressure was pegged at 80 (gauge on the dash) so I put the digital gauge on and it was going between 78-96. So I get it's a piece of crap sensor.
My main question. Is this something I need to park the ride for or can I drive it.
Chiming in as I was doing a search since I drove my car and noticed my oil pressure was pegged at 80 (gauge on the dash) so I put the digital gauge on and it was going between 78-96. So I get it's a piece of crap sensor.
My main question. Is this something I need to park the ride for or can I drive it.
Chiming in as I was doing a search since I drove my car and noticed my oil pressure was pegged at 80 (gauge on the dash) so I put the digital gauge on and it was going between 78-96. So I get it's a piece of crap sensor.
My main question. Is this something I need to park the ride for or can I drive it.
I understand that it will eventually leak oil. I can believe this since mine had oil filling the connector socket and was starting to ooze out. I have no way of knowing how long the PO let it go. My opinion is that it's not a reason to park the car but I wouldn't let it go for very long.
BTW, I got one labeled Standard Auto from Rock Auto. It was 36 bucks and made of brass. So far so good.
I wouldnt do the cutting method because I dont like needless destruction to my vehicles There is another method on Youtube that shows you how to do the swap without removing the intake or cutting the cowl. Its a little difficult to do if you have big hands but it does work. I used this method last year when my sending unit went out and it worked great(and I do have big hands so I know it makes it a little harder).
I wouldnt do the cutting method because I dont like needless destruction to my vehicles There is another method on Youtube that shows you how to do the swap without removing the intake or cutting the cowl. Its a little difficult to do if you have big hands but it does work. I used this method last year when my sending unit went out and it worked great(and I do have big hands so I know it makes it a little harder).
this is far better than hole cutting however, it makes it difficult to properly torque the sending unit. I'm just pointing it out that you have to be careful NOT to over torque the sending units. Over torquing has more to do with failure than the material the base is made out of. Personally I would not put any unit in other than a true GM replacement. Like with other aftermarket parts it is a crap-shoot if you get something that works or will fail after a short time. Current GM production sending units are better than the original one you will be removing.
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Current GM production sending units are better than the original one you will be removing.
Has this been proven? Was there a bullitin from GM ?
I personally won't pay aligiance to General Motors Parts. So far, the only part I have found labeled Made in USA is the headlight covers. I'd be willing to bet the sensors are made in Mexico as are most all their electronics. Other stuff from Canada. The torque tube and calipers are from Australia.
So if I find an aftermarket part from a reputable supplier, I have no proble with it. If GM can outsource to save money, why shouldn't I? If their stuff was so supeior, why am I replacing it??